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Sportster Motorcycle - Bottom End Cams, Cases, Gears, Flywheel, Piston Conecting Rods, Oil Pump, etc...

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  #1  
Old 5th May 2019
arkaz arkaz is offline
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Default Sportster 2008, problem oil pump, crankshaft "moved"

Good morning everyone:

I hope someone can help me with my problem, at first i must ask for patient my english isn´t fluent, but this is the biggest forum about sportster, anyway here we go with the problem. One day riding with my bike started to do a nasty noise i pull the clutch and the oil pressure gauge drop to 0 and the oil light turns on. Obviosly i was alarmed i was afraid, i was in the middle of the trafic then I go to side and slowly. Turn off the bike and go to the garaje.
I thought it was de oil pump die, or the oil pump drive. Open de engine and i found this, the oil pump drive is sharp-edged, the oil pump have problems too but the worst thing is the displaced "crankshaft" 0,11/0,15 inch (3/4mm) then moved the oil pump drive and cause the failure.

Anyone knows how is this possible ?


Thank you ( and sorry if i write something wrong ).
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  #2  
Old 5th May 2019
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aswracing aswracing is offline
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Your oil pump gear is definitely showing some wear. Turn the crank a complete rotation and inspect it all the way around. You'll typically see that in one area you've got wear, and 180 degrees from there it'll look like new. It's a common issue, more common on high power builds than on stock motors, but not unheard of on stock motors. It's caused by crankshaft runout.

The green arrow is pointing to the outer pinion race. It's pressed into the right case half. It's normal for it to protrude a little. I can't tell from the pic if it's starting to walk out on you or not, but I don't think so.

Here, this drawing shows how it all goes together:



What you're pointing to is number 6. Like I said, it's pressed into the right case half.

The inner pinion race (not shown) is pressed onto the pinion shaft (not shown).

In between these two races sits the pinion bearing, number 14 in the drawing. It's held in place by clip number 9, which you can also see clearly in your photo. It clips onto the inner pinion race, which you can also see.

Bottom line is that everything in your photo looks normal to me, except your oil pump drive gear is wearing badly and a failure is in your future.

The crank is held in place laterally by bearing 13, clip 18, the unnumbered thrust washer just above the 4, and the front primary sprocket and nut (not shown). So if you actually had the crank walking to the right, and pushing that outer pinion race out of the case as it went, the problem would be in that area. But like I said, I don't see it, nearly as I can tell in the picture.

HD is well aware of the issue with the oil pump gear wearing. It was a terrible issue on Buells in particular since they had elevated power levels right from the factory. Lots and lots of Buells, even bone stock one, lost that gear.

But it's pretty rare to have that gear fail in a stock Sportster. You typically only run into this issue after hop-up work.

HD came out with a fix in 2006, in the form of a bronze oil pump drive gear. It's part number 26391-06 if you want to go get one from your dealer. They never put it in Sportsters, though, must cost a nickel more than the steel gear or something, and like I said, it's a fairly rare failure in stock Sportsters. It's common for Sportster guys to upgrade to this bronze gear when hopping up their bikes.

Safe installation of the gear requires a pinion locking tool as well. If you hold the crank by any other method while removing or installing the pinion nut, you apply torque through the crank from one side to the other, and they're not designed to hold much torque that way, you risk knocking it out of true.

Here's a pic from another guy's build thread showing a pinion locking tool in place. You can also see he's upgraded to the bronze oil pump gear:



Also, when installing that pinion nut, use Loctite red per the manual, and torque it to 70ft-lbs. The factory torque spec, which is 45ft-lbs if memory serves, often results in a sheared pinion key, which is another pic from that build thread:

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  #3  
Old 5th May 2019
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I'm concerned why you lost oil pressure.
It's a good idea to pull the oil pump and have a look around in there.
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Old 5th May 2019
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as always, a most informative read by the hammer!
i often wonder why mfg do not opt for better parts, it is not like the buyer doesn't pay for it.
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Old 8th May 2019
arkaz arkaz is offline
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Thanks for replies, the primary was disassembly too, there is the big problem.

https://youtu.be/b1OVHt1zKAA

https://youtu.be/xHHhYDRlDVs

I think the bearing fails...

Have a nice day, or at least better than mine hahaha...

Enviado desde mi BV8000Pro mediante Tapatalk
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Old 8th May 2019
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looks like a bearing failure, to much side play
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Old 9th May 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arkaz View Post
Thanks for replies, the primary was disassembly too, there is the big problem.

https://youtu.be/b1OVHt1zKAA

https://youtu.be/xHHhYDRlDVs

I think the bearing fails...

Have a nice day, or at least better than mine hahaha...

Enviado desde mi BV8000Pro mediante Tapatalk
That little bit of side to side movement in the crank, when the front primary nut is removed, is totally normal. It's the front primary nut that pulls the crank into the bearing and locates it side to side.

It's not like the pre-rubber mount bikes that had two pressed Timken tapered bearings on the sprocket shaft.
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