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Sportster Motorcycle Transmission, Clutch, Primary & Secondary Drive Transmission, Clutch and primary or secondary drive problems, advice, and/or how tos.

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  #31  
Old 21st November 2008
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hdmc_ru2 hdmc_ru2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Little_Dave View Post
Been reading this with interest, I've a 2003 883 that is triked and now opened up to 1200cc, so far the clutch is holding out but what I would like is, can those of you who have changed for these lock-up clutches etc, give out some details, so if I have to change I can go ahead and get what seems to me the best clutch for the job. I'm sure there are others who would be interested as well. Cheers Dave
Cheers Dave, cjburr's post called "06 Clutch Install" is great info, click here...http://xlforum.net/forums/s...ad.php?t=49915 Yours will be different but it may help some, lots of pictures.
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Last edited by hdmc_ru2; 21st November 2008 at 07:06..
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  #32  
Old 21st November 2008
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I read that full post, it was definately a very informative and clear description with the pics supplied, if I do change, it looks like I'll have to buy or borrow a clutch tool before doing the job!
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  #33  
Old 22nd November 2008
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I've used mobil 1 wet clutch 20/50 for a few years now, and have had good luck, but I do mantain it. Barrnet kevlars with springs. 1988 xl1200. 67cc stage 2 heads, .010 over jugs, SE ignition module, coil, and pickup. Accell 8mm wires, SE plugs, S&S super E, Sifton moly rods and solid lifters. Python pipes. Ride like I stole it, burn-outs, and every thing else. Can the fact I only make 74-75HP have some thing to do with stock cams?
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  #34  
Old 7th December 2008
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1. Year of bike - 2006
2. Model (1200/883/other) 883, converted to 1200 using NRHS Hurricane Pistons
3. Miles on clutches? 35,000
4. Fluid used when slipping of clutch began? 80W90 Motul wet clutch
5. How many miles on that same fluid? 8,000
6. Did you perform routine adjustments per the service/owners manual? Yes
7. Your riding style: Aggressive, semi-agressive, normal, and easy going - Agressive (somewhat...)

Reading this post it seems that the original clutch is quite weak. I have put some 35,000 mi on the bike, mainly on roads (some 70% of the mileage) and, a couple of days before having it converted, the rivets in the original clutch decided to take a tour around the disks.

I replaced the original thing with a Barnett extra plate unit and then converted the engine to 1200cc. It slipped from day one.

I think I will try a Rivera spring.
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'06 XL883, heat treated (haredened) fork springs, Ricor front fork inertial valve, SE filter, 3" dia self-designed drag pipes, silicone plug wires, NGK Iridium plugs, self-designed CNC fork braces, converted to 1200 with NRHS Hurricane pistons, Cometic gaskets, porting, chinese (Öhlins copy) rear shocks, Pirelli front tire, Metzeler rear
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  #35  
Old 16th January 2009
Catanister Catanister is offline
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Angry negatively surprised

1. Year of bike = 2006
2. Model (1200/883/other) = 883 std
3. Miles on clutches? = 40,000
4. Fluid used when slipping of clutch began? = Sport Trans (since 0 miles)
5. How many miles on that same fluid? = change every 5,000. Ridden 1,100 since last change
6. Did you perform routine adjustments per the service/owners manual? = every 10,000 miles
7. Your riding style: Aggressive, semi-agressive, normal, and easy going = semi-agressive

Now the clutch is slipping and the lever somewhat loose, mainly in the urban traffic. But sometimes, suddenly, the lever gets harder and completely tight. Then, it returns to previous state. What's happening?
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  #36  
Old 16th July 2009
tandg2 tandg2 is offline
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Default slippig clutch

2006 sportster
883 /1250 conversion-revolution performance
27,000 miles plus on clutch
formula +
3000 miles
Primary fluid and clutch adjusted per manual , and diaphragm spring changed to 1200 version when conversion was done
Riding style is semi aggressive

Found that the riveted spring plate failed by shearing off a couple of the brass rivets. rivets spread out all thru the clutch basket.
Tim
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  #37  
Old 16th July 2009
Gone Gone is offline
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Default blown clutch/broken drive belt

I too do all my own maint. clutch started feeling soft at 15,500 miles. I adjusted it and it seemed okay for another 500 miles, then went soft for good. I am an agressive rider and only have put pipes, screaming eagle high flow air cleaner and rejettted the carb. The steel rivited plate rivits broke.
I installed an Energy One clutch and then proceded to break the drive belt 10miles later. Any suggestions? '06 1200c
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  #38  
Old 16th July 2009
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Hi, 666!

Well, it seems we owners of '06 bikes have the same symptoms all around...

I replaced mine with the Barnett. It slipped a lot. I substituted the original spring with a Rivera, which corrected the slipping, though it is quite hard to actuate the lever now...

My belt broke some 5,000 mi after replacing the clutch. The bike was 40,000 mi.

Well, I ride agressively, my engine is really brilliant now (1200 cc, Hurricane pistons from NRHS, who also supplied the clutch Rivera spring and Cometic gaskets). Maybe the original belt was really abused a little...
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  #39  
Old 19th July 2009
tandg2 tandg2 is offline
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I did for get to say that the clutch was replaced with a barnett extra plate clutch but used the stock 1200 spring. No slipping so far.
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  #40  
Old 24th July 2009
Biker Chick Biker Chick is offline
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My 2007 just had a whole new clutch installed, at about 30,000 miles (40,000 kms), under warranty (since HD paid, they insisted on using a new HD clutch). The rivets broke off the plates of the original one, chewing up everything, the plates, the clutch basket, etc. It was a mess. Hopefully the new one is better.
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