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7th April 2013
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A Million Facts & Figures
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Famous Potatoes
Posts: 10,500 Sportster/Buell Model: XL883 Sportster/Buell Year: 2007 Sportster/Buell Model #2: Buell Cyclone Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1999
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Grindlock 9199 shipping now!
By the way, I took this other photo to show how the step creates more tooth engagement:
If you're wondering why I have to cut the tips of the teeth down so much, the answer is in the first photo. If the point on the nut happens to line up to the valley between two teeth on the gear, you need to still be able to get the tool on. The tool slides over the gear, it doesn't slide in from the side. |
19th July 2013
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Chief Master Mechanic
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 487 Sportster/Buell Model: Nightster Sportster/Buell Year: 2008
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LOVE the pics of the machining process. Is removal of the pinion gear necessary when splitting the case on an 08 Sporty? Is the factory tool more expensive than this one, or is this one just better? Any other special tools like this I will need? Anything that should be removed prior to the top end coming off? Thanks!
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20th July 2013
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A Million Facts & Figures
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Famous Potatoes
Posts: 10,500 Sportster/Buell Model: XL883 Sportster/Buell Year: 2007 Sportster/Buell Model #2: Buell Cyclone Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackalAR
LOVE the pics of the machining process. Is removal of the pinion gear necessary when splitting the case on an 08 Sporty? Is the factory tool more expensive than this one, or is this one just better? Any other special tools like this I will need? Anything that should be removed prior to the top end coming off? Thanks!
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Yes, you have to pull the pinion gear to slip the pinion shaft through the pinion race that's pressed into the right case half.
I've never used the factory tool so I can't comment on that. The popular version of this tool has historically been the JIMS one.
There are a number of special tools involved in the full tear down/reassembly of one of these motors. Some are more necessary than others. The service manual describes them all.
The top end pretty much falls off these motors. It can be done without touching the bottom end if that's what you're asking. Just position the motor correctly before taking off the rocker boxes, that's the main thing. Everything just unbolts.
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20th July 2013
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Chief Master Mechanic
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 487 Sportster/Buell Model: Nightster Sportster/Buell Year: 2008
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Thx! Im debating buying one of your 1250 blems while I can, but I dont know what Im getting into with this bottom end, money or time wise. I have to replace the trans main shaft. I also dont know which cylinders since my heads arent highlited. Do you still have just plain black? I already yanked the whole top last night, just need to figure out how to pull the bottom now with this crazy swingarm pivot motor mount ordeal. Wish I could just send it your way.  I just did a Vulcan 1500 DOHC so I figured this would be cake. |
20th July 2013
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A Million Facts & Figures
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Famous Potatoes
Posts: 10,500 Sportster/Buell Model: XL883 Sportster/Buell Year: 2007 Sportster/Buell Model #2: Buell Cyclone Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1999
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Yes, we have I believe one set of blacks available.
The motor comes out the left side. The service manual has an excellent step by step procedure for taking it out. It's not that bad.
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20th July 2013
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Chief Master Mechanic
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 487 Sportster/Buell Model: Nightster Sportster/Buell Year: 2008
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One? Oh man...I dont imagine these come along too often? A bent fin on each jug or...could I get pics? I dont mind cosmetics much, but if its real bad or in a bad spot I might decide to go top shelf anyway. Big fin I hope? Might just have to do this and settle on cams. I don't want to totally hijack this thread any more than I already have, but was curious how the 560's are so easy on the stock valve train and how they work when I thought 550 was the max?
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20th July 2013
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A Million Facts & Figures
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Famous Potatoes
Posts: 10,500 Sportster/Buell Model: XL883 Sportster/Buell Year: 2007 Sportster/Buell Model #2: Buell Cyclone Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackalAR
One? Oh man...I dont imagine these come along too often? A bent fin on each jug or...could I get pics? I dont mind cosmetics much, but if its real bad or in a bad spot I might decide to go top shelf anyway. Big fin I hope? Might just have to do this and settle on cams. I don't want to totally hijack this thread any more than I already have, but was curious how the 560's are so easy on the stock valve train and how they work when I thought 550 was the max?
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The bent fins aren't too bad. One of them also has some issues with the powder coat but could be easily painted over. Shoot me a note, I can send you some pics. |
25th July 2023
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Biker
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Posts: 9 Sportster/Buell Model: Sportster Sportster/Buell Year: 1980
Reputation: 10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aswracing
Grindlock 9199 shipping now!
By the way, I took this other photo to show how the step creates more tooth engagement:
If you're wondering why I have to cut the tips of the teeth down so much, the answer is in the first photo. If the point on the nut happens to line up to the valley between two teeth on the gear, you need to still be able to get the tool on. The tool slides over the gear, it doesn't slide in from the side.
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Is there a pinion gear locking tool for1977 - 1986 Ironhead Sportster out there? |
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