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  #41  
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Will try orange/white and post back.

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You can use the orange/white wire from the accessory circuit, if you cannot get power to the orange instruments circuit. Best as I can figure from the post 34 photo is that the red/black in/out of the line side of the instruments position are connected to each other, but not to the line side of the fuse clip.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robbie202 View Post
i'm not sure what i would be looking for with the ohm meter.
open circuit will read zero ohm's, yes?

looks like i should pull these connectors out.

sorry i'm so slow on the uptake guys, this is my first time trying to find an electrical problem like this.
The ohmmeter should read continuity between the 3 fuse clips common to the red/black wires. I would expect continuity between all 3 on the back side probing the wires, but not on the clip side, probing each clip. This would verify a break in the connection of wires to the instrument clip.

Don't be sorry. We all had to learn at some point and it is gratifying to be able to help...once the issue is solved.
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hooked everyting up with orange/white instead of solid orange.
no change.
wired as you described in post #39 but still no Neutral or Oil lights.
i'm beginning to think something else is going on here.
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will post back with the ohm meter tomorrow
thanks for your help.
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Originally Posted by robbie202 View Post
hooked everyting up with orange/white instead of solid orange.
no change.
wired as you described in post #39 but still no Neutral or Oil lights.
i'm beginning to think something else is going on here.

When the neutral light has power, ground the tan wire from it to the neutral switch and see if it lights.

When the oil pressure light has power, ground the green/yellow wire from it to the oil pressure switch and see if it lights.

As IXL2Relax already mentioned, both of those switches close their respective circuit to ground.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robbie202 View Post
Surprisingly all the color combinations are correct. Just like you listed there.

I was also thinking i could just use the orang/white wire.

The key i believe is OEM with 3 wires. sorry the previous pic was a bad angle.
Then somewhere at the fuse block, the RED/Black wire coming to the Instruments Fuse must have broke off or been cut...

If you can track why that fuse is not powerd, you might be able to fix that circuit - But make sure the output side of that fuse is not shorted or otherwise defective (perhaps it was taken out of service for a short)...

The original Instruments Circuit powered only the Neutral & Oil Indicators plus the light bulb for the Tachometer. Using the Orange/White wire to power the indicators should be a minimal load on that circuit... If you should ever want to add a Tachometer (similar to stock with incandescent bulbs), I would definitely try to track down the fix for the Insturments Circuit and fix it in order to power those devices separately...

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I dont really want a tach but i do want the heated grips.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by robbie202 View Post
I dont really want a tach but i do want the heated grips.
If it were me, and the heated hand grips have an intelligent controller, I'd power the grips off the Main Circuit Breaker...

If no intelligent controller, I'd power off the Main Circuit Breaker thru a power relay that is activated by the Instruments or Ignition Circuit...

I would not power them (or activate them) off the Accessory Circuit because that circuit is intended to allow the flashers to operate without any other load on the battery...

If the heated hand grips come with an inline fuse, that could be powered from the battery (without using the Main Circuit Breaker)... Just be sure the grips CANNOT be left running when the bike is turned off...

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i think i started a thread on the grips this time last year and forgot about it.
will revisit that soon but i want to get this light bar sorted first.
going to try and follow directions with the ohm meter and post pics later today.
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