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Sportster Motorcycle Engine Conversions Advice, questions, and tips for 1200, 1250, 1340, 1450 etc... for Sportster and Buell motorcycle engine conversions

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1275, big bore kit, custom build, custom oil tank, lithium ion battery

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  #1  
Old 2nd April 2021
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So the install was good, great tech support, warming cycles done but clanking noise from front cylinder. Cylinder disassembled, no oil on rocker cover. Determined oil routing correct. Crankcase vent hose kinked between starter and jug. Determined wrong hose. I have a DK 4 stage breather kit from air cleaner and the crankcase vent tees into this. My cam vent goes to the custom oil tank as per normal along with a vented brass cap. Is this configuration ok?

Last edited by BestCoastXL; 4th July 2021 at 04:52..
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  #2  
Old 2nd April 2021
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Add on: going to replace crankcase vent hose and run it to breather.

Is there such a thing as an engine being over-vented?
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Old 2nd April 2021
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Also wondering if because of the “tinniness” of the cylinders whether that would amplify tapper noise from S&S lifters that are spongy or not pumping up?

Should I just put it back together and ride it for a while ?
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Old 2nd April 2021
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The rockers are oiled by the lifters, through the pushrods.

Do not run it until you find the oiling issue.
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Old 2nd April 2021
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Default

Thought I would clean up the stream of info best I could

My questions are these:

Is there such a thing as an over-vented system? as in not making enough pressure to get the oil up to the rocker boxes.

Can you run a DK 4-stage breather down below a brake linkage and tee the crankcase vent (behind the rear cylinder and between the starter) and the vent line from the air cleaner.?

That is to say, can you run the CCV line and air cleaner vent line teed together down to a catch can breather and still make enough pressure to get oil up where it needs to be?

I did the DK mod to tee the head breathers and ran them down to the 4-stage breather.

(I can email pics, they're all on my phone. Just not wanting to have to transfer all my photos from phone to computer to here)

Here's the details of my issues:

1275 kit installed
brass vented oil cap on custom tank
verified oil line routing. (feed, vent return)
I have AN4 fittings on 1/8" Russell Performance lines switching to 3/8" hose halfway.

During and After warming cycles clanking noise.
Did one mile and two mile ride
Determined it was from front cylinder.

Took front cylinder apart; No oil found on front rocker box cover. A little bit of oil in the rocker box; clean new oil, likely from when I poured oil in during installation.

Rocker arms felt a bit "spongy" as in there was play in the arm (I could move the arms by pushing on them)

Lifted the cylinder up to verify the circlips.
Oil present on the side of the piston.

It looked like black spatter on the crank teeth but looked a bit dry for a bike that ran a few miles.

I measured 0.162 clearance between cylinder and head. I suspect this is something to do with lifters.

The head is clean and no interference marks.
Heads were rebuilt.

Any insight is appreciated.

Thanks
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Old 3rd April 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BestCoastXL View Post
I measured 0.162 clearance between cylinder and head. I suspect this is something to do with lifters.
Thanks
Can you give more detail on exactly where you measured .162".
Did you check pushrod lengths?
Did you mix up the intake and exhaust pushrods?
They are different lengths.
See Hammer's site on this.
http://www.hammerperf.com/ttpushrodlength.shtml
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippysmack View Post
Can you give more detail on exactly where you measured .162".
Did you check pushrod lengths?
Did you mix up the intake and exhaust pushrods?
They are different lengths.
See Hammer's site on this.
http://www.hammerperf.com/ttpushrodlength.shtml
I mixed that one up. I was measuring between the botom deck of the rocker box and the cylinder head as per the Hammer tech video.

Longer OEM pushrod on the exhaust cam. Did I get that one right?
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I believe I am confusing Trans vent hose (z-shaped piece that goes around the starter and makes the engine case messy at the back) with venting the Crankcase.

If I picture it right, this is what I've done by using the DK kit up at the aircleaner and teeing that and the trans vent line to a DK 4 stage catch can down below the brake linkage and anchored to the frame.

Is this ok?

Add-on: the engine was down to the Connecting rods for the better part of 1.5 years with nipple caps on the oil pump lines.
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Put the transmission vent back where it was. Just run the head breathers to the catch can.

You installed S&S lifters? And cams? Along with the 1275 kit? 1/8" oil lines?

Did you fill the lifters with oil (prime them) prior to installing them?
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Last edited by Tomcatt; 2nd April 2021 at 23:42..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomcatt View Post
Put the transmission vent back where it was. Just run the head breathers to the catch can.

You installed S&S lifters? And cams? Along with the 1275 kit? 1/8" oil lines?

Did you fill the lifters with oil (prime them) prior to installing them?
I ran the trans vent normally just now.

Just S&S lifters when I bought the kit. Stock cams/No cam upgrade for the 883L.

The oil lines shouldn't be an issue.

If I understand correctly it's a gravity feed pump. If flow were a problem I should see it at higher rpm's vice idle? The lines switch halfway to 3/8 down on the frame. I used AN4 because of space restrictions in between the frame rails where the oil fittings are on the bottom of the tank I had built.

I took the lifters apart and checked them and put them back together with a bit of oil in them (trust me that's not a fun job as a one person job) I have them soaking in oil overnight, and when I did the original install I followed the instructions and even pushed on the plunger a bit to try and evacuate any air in there.

The motor stood assembled for a while (several months) before I was able to get to electrical and running oil lines. Am I possibly not being patient enough and maybe just let it run for a bit to see if the lifters pump up?
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