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  #11  
Old 2nd September 2018
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I understand. Thanks man!
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  #12  
Old 2nd September 2018
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I have had this problem with both my 1978 and my 1980, each on a different cylinder... During the process of installing the Spring Keeper the bottom edge of the Spring Retainer gets caught on one of the cylinder fins.

To prevent this I use the thin plastic lid of a yogurt container with the edge trimmed off. I slip it in between the fin and the pushrod cover assembly. The Spring Retainer then nicely slides into place.
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  #13  
Old 2nd September 2018
The Doctor71 The Doctor71 is offline
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Just a heads up on a few things.....
  • provided the circuit breaker cam is installed correctly (and it only goes in one way unless someone has smashed the roll pin on the advance assembly), when the narrow lobe on the cam is approaching the rubbing block on the points, the front cyl is always on compression stroke.
And this part you have stated backwards, haven't you (?):
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4th of July View Post
..... then used a 12v light to show when points open as advancing cam (light comes on when points begin to open, although you have to have ignition on for this to work). Got it right on the money to where light would just come on when I advanced the cam.
A 12v test light would go "out" when the points begin to open, wouldn't it ? Or am I mis-understanding the procedure you're using ? (personally I wouldn't recommend keeping the coil energized for long periods of time while you're messing with this, but rather just use the OHM meter capability. .... but that's your call.)
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  #14  
Old 2nd September 2018
needspeed needspeed is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Doctor71 View Post
A 12v test light would go "out" when the points begin to open, wouldn't it ? Or am I mis-understanding the procedure you're using ? (personally I wouldn't recommend keeping the coil energized for long periods of time while you're messing with this, but rather just use the OHM meter capability. .... but that's your call.)
Hi Doctor71.

I have never used a test light to static time. Either used an OHM meter,gigarette paper or had plugs out and watched for spark.

So I had the same thought as you when I read this post. It seems backwards to light the light with points open. It appears it matters how you hook up the light.

From a HD service manual: connect one test light lead to coil. (points side). connect other lead to POSITIVE battery term. With points closed light is ON. With points open light is OFF. No mention of turning on the ignition.

I found two videos that show another way. Not sportsters but still harleys.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGR2skLM4e8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_FgEm1hmkk

One side of the light connects to the positive side of points. The other to ground. Must TURN ON the ignition. Sure enough, When points are closed light is OFF. When points are open light is ON.

I confirmed this with my own bike.
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  #15  
Old 3rd September 2018
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Having a little trouble with phone too so hope this goes through.

Yes, I did hook positive on test light to positive points side and negative to ground. With ignition on the light comes on when points open.

Sounds like I don't need to mess with keepers if small lobe is coming up on points cam follower. Still not completely sure if I am positively identifying SMALL lobe but it does look like 2 flat sides on cam in between lobes. Thought I had it right but bike would not even start on 1st try. Going in again. When bike is down, I feel down, particularly when I think I might have caused it.

Expert advice here. Thank You (all).
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Old 3rd September 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4th of July View Post
.... Still not completely sure if I am positively identifying SMALL lobe ...
I was never able to identify and distinguish among small lobe, big lobe and whatever not-a-lobe falls between them. So I quickly gave up and installed the Ultima electronic ignition.

I think most of the guys have no trouble ID'ing those parts and assume it is easy for everyone. I think it is easy for those who get it, but is a mystery to the rest of us.

Someone should post a very clear picture with the large and small lobes very clearly identified, and distinguished from the not-a-lobe parts...

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  #17  
Old 3rd September 2018
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ok, here's another way to help you figure which lobe is which. if you look at the large slot cut into the bottom of the points cam that lets the cam sit down onto the advance weights, the narrow lobe will be at one end of the slot, and the wide lobe will be at the opposite end of that slot. the narrow lobe doesn't point to dead center of the slot, but slightly off to the left corner if you hold the narrow lobe pointing up.
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  #18  
Old 3rd September 2018
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Appreciate all this. I know this is likely basic if you've been through it but just trying to make sure I really get it, and do no harm. Don't like to disassemble things that I'm not familiar with but would like to verify that the PIN is not broken off. I think the bolt that holds cam it place will screw off if tire is braced. I THINK that should allow me to look under the weights so as to see if PIN is in place. Won't do it until I get an OK here, but will take another look. I do see the slot Doodah mentioned, which can be viewed when breaker plate is off, I think. Have a good Labor Day. I'll get this, but this forum is the only place I'm comfortable enough to follow. Thanks Again!
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  #19  
Old 3rd September 2018
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Howdy Guys, believe I have the lobes ID'd here. The LARGE lobe is roughly 1/4" across in 1st shot, with SMALL lobe much smaller than I imagined. It does set opposite the large lobe but is only maybe 1/16". I do believe I easily could have missed it on the 1st timing set, which Mick alluded to. Thanks for that. All good.

Finally the 77 Sporty. Hope I did not do damage here. Will let you all know how this comes out and thanks again. Have a great Holiday.
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  #20  
Old 3rd September 2018
The Doctor71 The Doctor71 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IronMick View Post
I think most of the guys have no trouble ID'ing those parts and assume it is easy for everyone. I think it is easy for those who get it....
Guilty as charged, Mick .

I find it's relatively easy to distinguish narrow lobe vs wide lobe, when checking the 0.018" point gap on BOTH lobes. As you rotate the engine and the breaker cam comes around, there's a relative long duration on the wide lobe, and a quick/short duration on the narrow lobe.

4th of July's pics of the narrow / wide lobes are pretty good. I don't have anything better.

I've posted pics of the advance assembly before, but I guess I can repeat them here.....

The highlighted roll pin..... flat side of breaker cam goes alongside this roll pin.


The back side roll pin.....


this back side pin aligns with the notch on cam # 2



And be very gentle with the 9/16" hex bolt head (should you remove & re-install). Think 1/4" drive rachet & 9/16" socket.... but use only 2 fingers. Much tighter & you'll snap that bolt.
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