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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #101  
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mjt754 mjt754 is offline
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As far as Machine a valve pocket different for a IH that would be fairly simple if there is a bit of meat in the piston. Because the oil ring is taller in conjunction to the wrist pin I would assume the piston will come up beyond the top of the cylinders. I had to use stroker plates about .060 on my 900 so the so the side of the piston would not go above the cylinder I was afraid it might touch the head. So I could make stroker plates and modify my frame motor mounts push rods intake manifold and God knows what else to use shovel pistons. Easiest way would be have pistons made I would think. But some one on here said they had to have a mechanical drawing of the piston they wanted built which is way beyond my ability. My naïve thinking is send them and s&s piston make it a he same just shave some off the dome stuff compression would not get to high.
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  #102  
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These guys are trying to lure you into building a big bore stroker.

Just like the guys who tried to get you to drink your first beer.

Oh.

yeah.

Not such a bad thing.
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  #103  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by needspeed View Post
^^
This is all true.

But a 3-7/16 shovel piston isn't used in an ironhead without a 3-7/16 aftermarket cylinder. After the head counterbore is increased to accept the fire ring of the bigger cylinder it all starts to fit.

And with a little ingenuity the wider dome can be used to create a small squish area between the piston and head
I will check into that if I could develop a little squish it would help with compression. It’s a project for a later day I planned to use them with a set of 41/2 S&s fly wheels I have. I think that is close to 80”
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  #104  
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My beer days are long long over but my motorcycle addiction still hangs on.
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  #105  
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are your 3-7/16'' cylinders stock length?it's fairly common for the early big bore cyliders to be stroker length.
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  #106  
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I will measure them seems like they are.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iron Mike View Post
Isn’t that common on an 86 incher?
yes with 4-5/8'' stroke.84 incher with 4-1/2'' stroke.DR DICK has a thread on here with an 84'' build with 3-7/16'' shovelhead stroker pistons.
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The worst scenario for kick starting is a large displacement, high compression engine with wide overlap and light (example: reduced diameter for more stroker skirt length) flywheels.
Large is self explanatory.
High CR increases CCP.
Late exhaust closing ATDC allows exhaust gas to be drawn back into the chamber, both polluting the fresh charge and reducing the vacuum seen by the intake port.
Lighter flywheels are far more difficult to "carry through" the compression stroke, the difference is far more than a simple comparison of the weights.
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T&O makes a torque monster flywheel I think 3 lbs heavier for big twins makes starting much easier. I can put electric start on this motor but trying not to. Like I said I have 9:1 which I feel will be much better to kick than the 10:1 if to hard to kick gets electric these are s&s wheels and I believe your right they are smaller
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The title of this thread gives me pause.

Easy starting is not a consideration for a cam choice by it's self.

You chose the cam for the intended power band and you get what you got for starting.
Using easy starting as a criteria for a cam choice will likely leave you with pedestrian performance.

What part of starting are you trying to ease?
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