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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #11  
Old 16th September 2021
Ferrous Head's Avatar
Ferrous Head Ferrous Head is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: XLB, XLCH, Sporton
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Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1966
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It's always a compromise.

Minus minus and similar grinds make it easier for starting due to losses at lower rpm's.

This loss "goes away" at higher rpm's and isn't a problem for race engines.

With race engines you increase the compression ratio which helps with the loss of torque you experience at lower rpm's due to the cam timings.
Stroker engines will make more torque in any case but it all comes on with a bit of a rush at higher rpm's.

So, a compromise. A little drop in torque down low so you can at least start the damn thing.

Enough time for a little story ?

1st race at the recent Queensland Titles. Went to fie up the bike and my very expensive $3,000) battery starting rollers died. Pushed into my mates pit bay next door and put it on his electric starting rollers (nains powered). Wouldn't spin it fast enough to start it.
Finally someone else brought up a brand new set of electric rollers and we got it running.

It's always a compromise. (There are no free lunches)
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  #12  
Old 16th September 2021
RicThompson RicThompson is offline
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I looked into a set of electric rollers last winter since my bike is next to impossible to start in cold weather. I found a design I like I just haven't located the required materials. Does anyone here have a supplier for rollers?
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  #13  
Old 17th September 2021
kitabel kitabel is offline
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One nice thing about high static CR: it increases intake vacuum (even if late intake valve closing throws it away when the piston passes BDC). Late exhaust closing (usual with high overlap) reduces vacuum

I wrote an .xls that (tries to) predict CCP with different CR and IVC.
For example, using a 9.0:1 CR 4-5/8" (77") ironhead:
Intake closes at 60 ABDC, CCP = 150 psi
Intake closes at 65 ABDC, CCP = 143 psi
Intake closes at 70 ABDC, CCP = 135 psi
Intake closes at 75 ABDC, CCP = 128 psi
Intake closes at 80 ABDC, CCP = 119 psi

10.0:1 CR:
Intake closes at 60 ABDC, CCP = 171 psi
Intake closes at 65 ABDC, CCP = 163 psi
Intake closes at 70 ABDC, CCP = 155 psi
Intake closes at 75 ABDC, CCP = 146 psi
Intake closes at 80 ABDC, CCP = 137 psi
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  #14  
Old 17th September 2021
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Ferrous Head Ferrous Head is offline
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I buy them from a mate's brother but the ones made here won't work in the USA. We have 240 volts mains power here.
Ours are based on a 9 inch angle grinder. Very simple and you can buy a suitable angle grinder for around $175. Needs to be the most powerful you can buy. 2.2KW.
Used to use Ryobi but they stopped making 2.2 and only make 2KW ones now.
Even then, I'm not sure how well they will work on 110 volts.
2K ones should be OK for street engines I would imagine.

Oh and the new angle grinders mostly all have soft start, You need to disable that.
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Old 17th September 2021
kitabel kitabel is offline
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Slow cranking in cold weather?
In WW1, aircraft crews pre-heated the castor oil for their big V12 and radial engines with stoves right next to the plane.
There may be a automotive race engine heating element you can attach or install on/in your tank.
Sometimes dropping the viscosity slightly helps a lot.
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Old 17th September 2021
kitabel kitabel is offline
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How powerful are the (Chinese?) 12 volt winch motors?
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  #17  
Old 17th September 2021
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I just use a heat gun on the heads and cylinders. Once up to 24 degrees (Centagrde) the engine will start nicely.
heating the oil was something the old guys did in the pits in England. Arrive at the track with an empty oil tank. Heat it up before you pour it in.
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  #18  
Old 17th September 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kitabel View Post
How powerful are the (Chinese?) 12 volt winch motors?
The "go" really is starter motors from something like a Toyota Hi-lux diesel. It's exactly what they were designed to do.

I run 2 batteries in parallel to get me over the 1200 CCA. But with most engines a good 800 CCA battery will work fine.

I probably should take mine apart and do drawings/photos and give details for other people to replicate.

I've "buggered" around with remote starters for years, Pingal (who make big/good one) told me theirs won't start mine.

Aircraft air starters would also be the go but too expensive.
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  #19  
Old 17th September 2021
RicThompson RicThompson is offline
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The automotive starter motor is the rout I'm looking at. I need a source for the actual rollers that contact the wheel.
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  #20  
Old 17th September 2021
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Ferrous Head Ferrous Head is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: XLB, XLCH, Sporton
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Custom machined on mine.

You need to work out the drive ratios correctly. The size of the rollers comes into that.
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