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  #11  
Old 27th November 2008
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silvestre.tanenbaum silvestre.tanenbaum is offline
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Thank you for all your responses...I have another question, though...I saw some pictures of an easy mod, where there was holes drilled on the ends of the mufflers, around the hole...for that mod, how long does the drill bit need to be? Does it matter? Also, if I remove the mufflers from the headers, do I need to get new gasket seals, or can I just reuse the ones on there>

[EDIT] The mod I am talking about is the one pictured by jimmyess.


Thanks,
Sly
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  #12  
Old 3rd December 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Burton View Post
Sly, In addition to the two ways to modify your stock mufflers that Bob F mentioned there are several others. (1) If you want loud and open, you can cut the baffles out of the back of the muffler with a 1 3/4 inch hole saw and leave them out. You would then want to file the edges of the saw cut smooth down to the wall of the muffler. This mod would cause you to lose some of yoru lower and midrange power just as some of the open aftermarket mufflers do. (2) The Gronk mod can be modified so that the baffle tubes do not need to welded back into the muffler. They can be expanded in place by an exhaust shop with no weld necessary. (3) You can buy or make your own baffles to fit. (4) You can cut the whole baffle plug out with a 1 1/4 inch hole saw. Some people don't like taking the whole baffle plug out as it leaves the mufflers with a slight chirping/whistling sound only at idle which sometimes goes away after 10,000 miles or so. (5) You can drill a hole from 3/8 to 1 inch through the middle of the baffle plug with no whistling sound noted. Drilling a hole through the baffle plug is the only one of these mods that can easily be reversed. All you need to reverse it is a small bolt and a couple of washers to plug up the hole. If you just drill a 3/8 inch hole in the center of each baffle plug (make sure that you keep it centered with some sort of centering device), you will have better sound and it shouldn't flow enough more to require retuning. If you then want to go louder you can do so by drilling a 1/2 inch or larger hole through the plug. The baffle plug is a sheetmetal plug approx 10 inches up inside the muffler. Personally, I like the Gronks the best as I don't like too loud.
I have decided to remove the mufflers and drill a 3/4 inch hole in the baffle plug...see what happens.

Thanks for all the info!!

Sly
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  #13  
Old 3rd December 2008
Moved On / My Own Choice Moved On / My Own Choice is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silvestre.tanenbaum View Post
I have decided to remove the mufflers and drill a 3/4 inch hole in the baffle plug...see what happens.

Thanks for all the info!!

Sly
So if you're taking the easy road, why remove the mufflers?
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  #14  
Old 3rd December 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silvestre.tanenbaum View Post
I have decided to remove the mufflers and drill a 3/4 inch hole in the baffle plug...see what happens.
Thanks for all the info!!
Sly
I think you will find the 3/4" hole will sound deeper and more mellow than if you remove the baffle completely. It still allows a massive gain in flow over being corked up.
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  #15  
Old 3rd December 2008
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Make sure that you keep the hole saw centered by putting a 1 1/4 O.D. centering washer of the correct I.D. on the shaft. There is no need to remove the mufflers but unless you have an angle drill you will have to loosen the exhaust flange, remove the muffler mounting bolts and swing one or the other of the two whole exhaust assemblies out of the way so that you can get a straight shot into the front muffler. I would cut the rear one first, then swing it a little out of the way so you can cut out the front one while it is rigidly mounted to the bike. Don't worry about the shavings as they will blow out the rear. I suspect that you would get even better flow if you did the "Gronk Mod" to these mufflers as well as some of the exhaust still passes through the walls of the baffle tube. That mod consists of removing the baffle tubes and drilling the holes in the walls to a much larger diameter. Let us know how your mod turns out for you. It will be plenty loud enough for most people.
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  #16  
Old 3rd December 2008
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Just make sure you use a magnet and clean all the shavings out after you drill. This is easier if you do the job off the bike rather than on.

I didn't use to think this was important because I figured any shavings left in there would be too big to possible get sucked back into the engine. Just for the heck of it, when I drilled my tapered muffs a couple weeks ago I ran a magnet down in the baffle all the way to the plug and swirled it around a few times. In addition to the big stuff, the amount of tiny, dust-size particles that were caked on the magnet when I pulled it out surprised me. This stuff was definitely small enough to get sucked back. It took three clean-outs with the magnet to get all that tiny stuff out.
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  #17  
Old 3rd December 2008
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Gary, I know that there's stuff in there but If there is no reversion, I don't think that any of it is going to get sucked back into the engine before it gets blown out. I drilled mine that way first as well and then removed the baffles for the Gronk Mod and there wasn't any dust or shavings anywhere, so I think it all blew out. I've done it on another bike as well and my neighbor did it as well, without any problems. I don't think that there is anything to worry about. My thought is that a K&N filter likely lets more stuff through the intake. In any event, if he does decide to take his mufflers off, it's much easier to drill or cut the holes in the plugs while the mufflers are still on the bike and then they can be removed for cleaning if desired.
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  #18  
Old 4th December 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Burton View Post
Make sure that you keep the hole saw centered by putting a 1 1/4 O.D. centering washer of the correct I.D. on the shaft. There is no need to remove the mufflers but unless you have an angle drill you will have to loosen the exhaust flange, remove the muffler mounting bolts and swing one or the other of the two whole exhaust assemblies out of the way so that you can get a straight shot into the front muffler. I would cut the rear one first, then swing it a little out of the way so you can cut out the front one while it is rigidly mounted to the bike. Don't worry about the shavings as they will blow out the rear. I suspect that you would get even better flow if you did the "Gronk Mod" to these mufflers as well as some of the exhaust still passes through the walls of the baffle tube. That mod consists of removing the baffle tubes and drilling the holes in the walls to a much larger diameter. Let us know how your mod turns out for you. It will be plenty loud enough for most people.
So, about an hour ago I decided to give it a whack; I made sure I had all the right tools (ratchet wrench, the sockets, etc,...), and got down to business. Well, about an hour and a half later, and after much cursing , I discovered that even loosening the muffler mount, much less trying to remove it, was a massive pain in the .

I am EXTREMELY frustrated. I couldn't even get the muffler to swing out on the header, I am worried that I damaged the gasket seal on the muffler, and the fastener (that tightens the seal from the muffler to the header) did not tighten all the way.

So, I am irritated...might need to cool down before I try again
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Old 4th December 2008
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You just need to loosen the header bolts at the head a little bit. Then unbolt the two bolts that hold the muffler to its mount and loosen the muffler clamps until they will slide off the muffler and up onto the header pipe. (There is also a bolt/clamp on the rear header pipe that bolts to the engine side cover. That has to be unbolted.) Lift up and out on the muffler enough to lift it up off the crossover port. At that point you can twist the muffler and wiggle it up and down while pulling it away from the header pipe. Keep doing that until you work it off the header pipe.

Installation is the reverse. Just don't tighten the header bolts at the head until you've got the muffler in place and the muffler bolts screwed in hand tight. Make sure you don't over-tighten the header bolts because you can strip them.
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  #20  
Old 4th December 2008
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Now do you understand why I said this:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kev M View Post
So if you're taking the easy road, why remove the mufflers?
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