The Sportster and Buell Motorcycle Forum - The XLFORUM®
 

Go Back   The Sportster and Buell Motorcycle Forum - The XLFORUM® > SPORTSTER MOTORCYCLE ZONE > Sportster Motorcycle Intake and Exhaust > Sportster Motorcycle Air intake, Carburetor, EFI, Fuel, and Exhaust
XLF Blogs XLF Arcade XLF Disclaimer/Privacy Statement/Terms Of Use

Sportster Motorcycle Air intake, Carburetor, EFI, Fuel, and Exhaust Problems, advice and/or how tos for Sporster and Buell motorcycle carburators, Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI), Air Intake, Fuel and Exhaust.

Active Threads
0 XL Forum Migration and Upgrade is complete!
Last Post: IXL2Relax
Posted On: 1 Minute Ago
Replies: 71
Views: 1,168
0 Swapping Iron 883 forks for Seventy-Two forks?
Last Post: LLOYD883
Posted On: 6 Minutes Ago
Replies: 1
Views: 16
0 48 Handling
Last Post: 201648Rider
Posted On: 9 Minutes Ago
Replies: 9
Views: 279
0 Mid's or rear sets
Last Post: gusm2
Posted On: 13 Minutes Ago
Replies: 14
Views: 10,856
0 1977 Ironhead clutch arm moves but wont shift.
Last Post: 72 Ironhead XLH
Posted On: 15 Minutes Ago
Replies: 13
Views: 397
0 Surging Engine (electrical issue)
Last Post: IXL2Relax
Posted On: 24 Minutes Ago
Replies: 3
Views: 66
0 Blow thru setup
Last Post: Sideshift92
Posted On: 44 Minutes Ago
Replies: 13
Views: 462
0 Intermittent oil smoke from rear cylinder
Last Post: Whitewalls
Posted On: 48 Minutes Ago
Replies: 5
Views: 106
0 -75 ironhead, My first HD
Last Post: Chuckthebeatertruck
Posted On: 50 Minutes Ago
Replies: 126
Views: 5,627
0 '04 Carb Tuning issue.... the 'carb' pop!
Last Post: IXL2Relax
Posted On: 59 Minutes Ago
Replies: 15
Views: 191
0 What Sort Of Sporty Have You Got?
Last Post: blindfredy
Posted On: 1 Hour Ago
Replies: 1,025
Views: 256,994
0 91 oil in cam cover
Last Post: ChinCactus
Posted On: 1 Hour Ago
Replies: 5
Views: 83
0 Safe to run 2 master links?
Last Post: Reverend G
Posted On: 1 Hour Ago
Replies: 13
Views: 271
0 Average age of the Ironhead forum users
Last Post: barefoot
Posted On: 1 Hour Ago
Replies: 402
Views: 65,375
0 DIY Belt Tensioner for taller shocks and Cafe Bikes
Last Post: thecarpenter
Posted On: 1 Hour Ago
Replies: 16
Views: 3,643
More...
Members Birthdays
WinXP (67), Maggie (61), grancan1 (53), SRKASM (47), metalmessiah, o113attitude (43), stinkynate (35), wingman_214 (34)
Sponsored Links
Reply
 
Share Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11  
Old 27th November 2008
silvestre.tanenbaum's Avatar
silvestre.tanenbaum silvestre.tanenbaum is offline
Biker
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 12
Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200 Low
Sportster/Buell Year: 2007
Reputation: 10
silvestre.tanenbaum is an unknown quantity at this point
Default

Thank you for all your responses...I have another question, though...I saw some pictures of an easy mod, where there was holes drilled on the ends of the mufflers, around the hole...for that mod, how long does the drill bit need to be? Does it matter? Also, if I remove the mufflers from the headers, do I need to get new gasket seals, or can I just reuse the ones on there>

[EDIT] The mod I am talking about is the one pictured by jimmyess.


Thanks,
Sly
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 3rd December 2008
silvestre.tanenbaum's Avatar
silvestre.tanenbaum silvestre.tanenbaum is offline
Biker
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 12
Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200 Low
Sportster/Buell Year: 2007
Reputation: 10
silvestre.tanenbaum is an unknown quantity at this point
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Burton View Post
Sly, In addition to the two ways to modify your stock mufflers that Bob F mentioned there are several others. (1) If you want loud and open, you can cut the baffles out of the back of the muffler with a 1 3/4 inch hole saw and leave them out. You would then want to file the edges of the saw cut smooth down to the wall of the muffler. This mod would cause you to lose some of yoru lower and midrange power just as some of the open aftermarket mufflers do. (2) The Gronk mod can be modified so that the baffle tubes do not need to welded back into the muffler. They can be expanded in place by an exhaust shop with no weld necessary. (3) You can buy or make your own baffles to fit. (4) You can cut the whole baffle plug out with a 1 1/4 inch hole saw. Some people don't like taking the whole baffle plug out as it leaves the mufflers with a slight chirping/whistling sound only at idle which sometimes goes away after 10,000 miles or so. (5) You can drill a hole from 3/8 to 1 inch through the middle of the baffle plug with no whistling sound noted. Drilling a hole through the baffle plug is the only one of these mods that can easily be reversed. All you need to reverse it is a small bolt and a couple of washers to plug up the hole. If you just drill a 3/8 inch hole in the center of each baffle plug (make sure that you keep it centered with some sort of centering device), you will have better sound and it shouldn't flow enough more to require retuning. If you then want to go louder you can do so by drilling a 1/2 inch or larger hole through the plug. The baffle plug is a sheetmetal plug approx 10 inches up inside the muffler. Personally, I like the Gronks the best as I don't like too loud.
I have decided to remove the mufflers and drill a 3/4 inch hole in the baffle plug...see what happens.

Thanks for all the info!!

Sly
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 3rd December 2008
Moved On / My Own Choice Moved On / My Own Choice is offline
Senior Master Custom Bike Builder
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 18,132
Moved On / My Own Choice has disabled reputation
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by silvestre.tanenbaum View Post
I have decided to remove the mufflers and drill a 3/4 inch hole in the baffle plug...see what happens.

Thanks for all the info!!

Sly
So if you're taking the easy road, why remove the mufflers?
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 3rd December 2008
Quay Quay is offline
Senior Chief Harley Engineer
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Bremerton, Wa.
Posts: 1,048
Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200R
Sportster/Buell Year: '07
Sportster/Buell Model #2: Buell XB12Ss
Sportster/Buell Year #2: '09
Other Motorcycle Model: Hayabusa
Other Motorcycle Year: '99
Reputation: 3406
Quay is a jewel in the roughQuay is a jewel in the roughQuay is a jewel in the roughQuay is a jewel in the roughQuay is a jewel in the roughQuay is a jewel in the roughQuay is a jewel in the roughQuay is a jewel in the roughQuay is a jewel in the roughQuay is a jewel in the roughQuay is a jewel in the rough
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by silvestre.tanenbaum View Post
I have decided to remove the mufflers and drill a 3/4 inch hole in the baffle plug...see what happens.
Thanks for all the info!!
Sly
I think you will find the 3/4" hole will sound deeper and more mellow than if you remove the baffle completely. It still allows a massive gain in flow over being corked up.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 3rd December 2008
Don Burton's Avatar
Don Burton Don Burton is offline
Senior Master Custom Bike Builder
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: The Warm Southeast! U.S.A.
Posts: 7,256
Sportster/Buell Model: XL 1200 Gone
Sportster/Buell Year: 2006
Reputation: 395253
Don Burton has a reputation beyond reputeDon Burton has a reputation beyond reputeDon Burton has a reputation beyond reputeDon Burton has a reputation beyond reputeDon Burton has a reputation beyond reputeDon Burton has a reputation beyond reputeDon Burton has a reputation beyond reputeDon Burton has a reputation beyond reputeDon Burton has a reputation beyond reputeDon Burton has a reputation beyond reputeDon Burton has a reputation beyond repute
Default

Make sure that you keep the hole saw centered by putting a 1 1/4 O.D. centering washer of the correct I.D. on the shaft. There is no need to remove the mufflers but unless you have an angle drill you will have to loosen the exhaust flange, remove the muffler mounting bolts and swing one or the other of the two whole exhaust assemblies out of the way so that you can get a straight shot into the front muffler. I would cut the rear one first, then swing it a little out of the way so you can cut out the front one while it is rigidly mounted to the bike. Don't worry about the shavings as they will blow out the rear. I suspect that you would get even better flow if you did the "Gronk Mod" to these mufflers as well as some of the exhaust still passes through the walls of the baffle tube. That mod consists of removing the baffle tubes and drilling the holes in the walls to a much larger diameter. Let us know how your mod turns out for you. It will be plenty loud enough for most people.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 3rd December 2008
Gary7's Avatar
Gary7 Gary7 is offline
Senior Chief Master Mechanic 1st Class
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Upstate SC
Posts: 1,277
Sportster/Buell Model: XL883 (traded)
Sportster/Buell Year: 2007
Other Motorcycle Model: FXDC Super Glide
Other Motorcycle Year: 2009
Reputation: 2068
Gary7 is a jewel in the roughGary7 is a jewel in the roughGary7 is a jewel in the roughGary7 is a jewel in the roughGary7 is a jewel in the roughGary7 is a jewel in the roughGary7 is a jewel in the roughGary7 is a jewel in the roughGary7 is a jewel in the roughGary7 is a jewel in the roughGary7 is a jewel in the rough
Default

Just make sure you use a magnet and clean all the shavings out after you drill. This is easier if you do the job off the bike rather than on.

I didn't use to think this was important because I figured any shavings left in there would be too big to possible get sucked back into the engine. Just for the heck of it, when I drilled my tapered muffs a couple weeks ago I ran a magnet down in the baffle all the way to the plug and swirled it around a few times. In addition to the big stuff, the amount of tiny, dust-size particles that were caked on the magnet when I pulled it out surprised me. This stuff was definitely small enough to get sucked back. It took three clean-outs with the magnet to get all that tiny stuff out.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 3rd December 2008
Don Burton's Avatar
Don Burton Don Burton is offline
Senior Master Custom Bike Builder
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: The Warm Southeast! U.S.A.
Posts: 7,256
Sportster/Buell Model: XL 1200 Gone
Sportster/Buell Year: 2006
Reputation: 395253
Don Burton has a reputation beyond reputeDon Burton has a reputation beyond reputeDon Burton has a reputation beyond reputeDon Burton has a reputation beyond reputeDon Burton has a reputation beyond reputeDon Burton has a reputation beyond reputeDon Burton has a reputation beyond reputeDon Burton has a reputation beyond reputeDon Burton has a reputation beyond reputeDon Burton has a reputation beyond reputeDon Burton has a reputation beyond repute
Default

Gary, I know that there's stuff in there but If there is no reversion, I don't think that any of it is going to get sucked back into the engine before it gets blown out. I drilled mine that way first as well and then removed the baffles for the Gronk Mod and there wasn't any dust or shavings anywhere, so I think it all blew out. I've done it on another bike as well and my neighbor did it as well, without any problems. I don't think that there is anything to worry about. My thought is that a K&N filter likely lets more stuff through the intake. In any event, if he does decide to take his mufflers off, it's much easier to drill or cut the holes in the plugs while the mufflers are still on the bike and then they can be removed for cleaning if desired.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 4th December 2008
silvestre.tanenbaum's Avatar
silvestre.tanenbaum silvestre.tanenbaum is offline
Biker
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 12
Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200 Low
Sportster/Buell Year: 2007
Reputation: 10
silvestre.tanenbaum is an unknown quantity at this point
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Burton View Post
Make sure that you keep the hole saw centered by putting a 1 1/4 O.D. centering washer of the correct I.D. on the shaft. There is no need to remove the mufflers but unless you have an angle drill you will have to loosen the exhaust flange, remove the muffler mounting bolts and swing one or the other of the two whole exhaust assemblies out of the way so that you can get a straight shot into the front muffler. I would cut the rear one first, then swing it a little out of the way so you can cut out the front one while it is rigidly mounted to the bike. Don't worry about the shavings as they will blow out the rear. I suspect that you would get even better flow if you did the "Gronk Mod" to these mufflers as well as some of the exhaust still passes through the walls of the baffle tube. That mod consists of removing the baffle tubes and drilling the holes in the walls to a much larger diameter. Let us know how your mod turns out for you. It will be plenty loud enough for most people.
So, about an hour ago I decided to give it a whack; I made sure I had all the right tools (ratchet wrench, the sockets, etc,...), and got down to business. Well, about an hour and a half later, and after much cursing , I discovered that even loosening the muffler mount, much less trying to remove it, was a massive pain in the .

I am EXTREMELY frustrated. I couldn't even get the muffler to swing out on the header, I am worried that I damaged the gasket seal on the muffler, and the fastener (that tightens the seal from the muffler to the header) did not tighten all the way.

So, I am irritated...might need to cool down before I try again
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
  #19  
Old 4th December 2008
Gary7's Avatar
Gary7 Gary7 is offline
Senior Chief Master Mechanic 1st Class
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Upstate SC
Posts: 1,277
Sportster/Buell Model: XL883 (traded)
Sportster/Buell Year: 2007
Other Motorcycle Model: FXDC Super Glide
Other Motorcycle Year: 2009
Reputation: 2068
Gary7 is a jewel in the roughGary7 is a jewel in the roughGary7 is a jewel in the roughGary7 is a jewel in the roughGary7 is a jewel in the roughGary7 is a jewel in the roughGary7 is a jewel in the roughGary7 is a jewel in the roughGary7 is a jewel in the roughGary7 is a jewel in the roughGary7 is a jewel in the rough
Default

You just need to loosen the header bolts at the head a little bit. Then unbolt the two bolts that hold the muffler to its mount and loosen the muffler clamps until they will slide off the muffler and up onto the header pipe. (There is also a bolt/clamp on the rear header pipe that bolts to the engine side cover. That has to be unbolted.) Lift up and out on the muffler enough to lift it up off the crossover port. At that point you can twist the muffler and wiggle it up and down while pulling it away from the header pipe. Keep doing that until you work it off the header pipe.

Installation is the reverse. Just don't tighten the header bolts at the head until you've got the muffler in place and the muffler bolts screwed in hand tight. Make sure you don't over-tighten the header bolts because you can strip them.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 4th December 2008
Moved On / My Own Choice Moved On / My Own Choice is offline
Senior Master Custom Bike Builder
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 18,132
Moved On / My Own Choice has disabled reputation
Default

Now do you understand why I said this:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kev M View Post
So if you're taking the easy road, why remove the mufflers?
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump



Sponsored Links
All times are GMT +1. The time now is 17:41.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
XL Forum® - Linson Media LLC