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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #11  
Old 8th November 2019
Ferrous Head's Avatar
Ferrous Head Ferrous Head is offline
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The balance factor is always a compromise. You can't balance for the entire rev range - only 1 rpm. Say like 5800 RPM.

So sometimes it depends a lot on how you ride your bike.

On a race bike where you are WOT all the time you'll balance for higher RPM's.
For puttering around town you really want it smooth lower down.

triumph changes their balance factor 4 or 5 times back in the 60's trying to reach a sweet spot that everyone liked.

Never did.

You don't really need forged psitons in there buy if you have them already you might as well use them.

With clearances reputable piston manufacturers will tell you what to use, If you don't have that figure I would be more likely to go to 10 thou.

But that's just my opinion.
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  #12  
Old 16th November 2019
marioserafica marioserafica is offline
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Thanks and regards
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  #13  
Old 17th June 2020
needspeed needspeed is offline
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entered post in wrong thread
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  #14  
Old 7th August 2020
marioserafica marioserafica is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marioserafica View Post
1968 XLCH engine number 4424 ……51 years of love and hate !

Hi friends,
Considering what below.. I have to change pistons ( and to rebore one cylinder) , but the rotating assembly was already balanced with the previous piston weight, therefore :
a) how far from this piston weight could I go before needing to rebalance everything again? The new pistons ( forged TRW ) are about 35 grams ( !!) heavier than what my assembly is balanced for.
b) Is it advisable to reduce pistons weight down to former conditions, by milling f.i. the bottom of the pin bosses ? ( only few grs !) … or what to do ?
I don’t yet know the reasons for these seizures, as well as the damages to piston pin hole on both sides of the piston ( only rear one) and consequently “wound” on cylinder wall


I am afraid that heavier pistons can affect connecting rod and bearing life and nullify the previous balancing ( I am not planning to open crankcase for checking new balancing conditions), moreover with 35 gr for each piston , what about vibration amplitude and critical RPM point ?!
Well any advices will be appreciated.
Thanks and best regards ciao
Mario
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  #15  
Old 7th August 2020
marioserafica marioserafica is offline
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Well reduced the difference between old and new pistons weight down to 25 grams.
Reassembled top ends (suggested piston clearance for TWR forged pistons 0,1 mm
??!..), ignition timing ok, tappets correctly readjusted, sparks ok ( I have 2 sets of MSF cables), Mikuni vm38-9 fuel level at 18mm, compression ( rebored cyl new rings ,never worked !) 100 lbs....my 1968 xlch doesn't start , no sign of life ! never happened during 52 years of common life.
I cheched everything many times ...may be hoping in a kick back..nothing !
Please any idea ? thanks Mario
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  #16  
Old 7th August 2020
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You really need to make sure the MSF cables are installed is the correct way.
Running two of them also turns this into a single fire ignition.

look closely at this diagram. Wire your up like that.

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  #17  
Old 7th August 2020
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Compression will come up once rings have seated, so 100 is nothing to worry about at this point.

A 2 second shot of Aerostart will rule out carb problems as well.
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  #18  
Old 7th August 2020
Iron Mike Iron Mike is offline
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Isn’t there a colored band on one of the MSF wires? Distinguishing F&R?
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  #19  
Old 7th August 2020
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Piston clearance - you should go by the manufacturers recommendation. They know what material it's made from and what shape the piston is. Not all forged pistons require a lot more clearance than cast ones. 4 thou seems a tad small but if that's what it says on the box, go with it.
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  #20  
Old 7th August 2020
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No distinguishing marks on the wires Dave supplies.
I would suggest marking them once you have everything installed correctly.

And not you can run it in dual fire mode by changing where the wires go.

Don't forget to mark the wires that go into the cap as well.
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