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  #1  
Old 1 Week Ago
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staniel staniel is offline
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Default Replacement clutch plates

I was riding around last night after work and I noticed that in 2nd gear the clutch on my '71 XLCH would slip. I just did a quick search for replacement clutch packs and the cheapest I saw was $110.

Why are they so expensive? Every other bike I've done this to cost no more than $40. Is there somewhere I can find affordable clutch packs?
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did that price include frictions and steels?

http://www.legendmcs.com/mid-usa-har...er-clutch.html
hd# 37985-71 for frictions
MU73144 frictions $36.00
and
hd# 37992-71A steels
MU 73161 steels $44
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Might be the pushrod is set too tight?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryder rick View Post
Might be the pushrod is set too tight?
Exactly. Slip is the normal result of wear, so an adjustment can in many cases cure the problem. Grabbing is always broken parts, but slip is not always a death sentence for the plates.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryder rick View Post
Might be the pushrod is set too tight?
Could you explain how the pushrod affects slippage? I am having a hard time conceptualizing that.
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  #6  
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If this is an original clutch or has not been up graded the early wet clutch is different from the later wet clutch. the early clutch has adjustable spring height or tension while the later has fixed spring tension and height determined by spacers. I'm not sure if I'm explaining this properly so correct me if I am wrong.
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1971 would be the early version of the wet clutch. Staniel needs to know if his clutch has the spacer tubes, if not then the pressure plate clearance has to be set manually. A ‘71 would not have had the spacer tubes from the factory, but could’ve been added at some other time. I think it would be a good idea to open it up and at least inspect the frictions and steels. Then you can get eyes on the chain skid shoe (and replace if needed - it’s cheap, but important), set the pressure plate clearance, inspect the kicker parts, adjust primary chain tension, and put fresh oil in etc...
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get a set of Barnetts and be done
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If the pushrod is bottoming out at ALL, the clutch will slip.
I like a 1/2 turn of free play, so everything has room to move around.
My reasoning is that the pusher should never bottom out alone, and I set the final end play at the lever. The pusher can bottom out against the cable a touch without causing the clutch to slip.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryder rick View Post
If the pushrod is bottoming out at ALL, the clutch will slip.
I like a 1/2 turn of free play, so everything has room to move around.
My reasoning is that the pusher should never bottom out alone, and I set the final end play at the lever. The pusher can bottom out against the cable a touch without causing the clutch to slip.
Yep. A good friend once called me to look at his transmission because he had 5 neutrals. On our year bike that adjustment is a "puller" rather than a pusher, but it's the same exact thing. No play at that primary case adjustment and the cable doesn't matter, it's going to slip.

This is why I always recommend that people take their adjustment screw and play with it back and forth, and even into the zone where it gets tight so that they can actually get a mental picture of what is actually going on instead of just following a manual that says turn CCW, then turn CW, then stand on one foot and twist the cable, etc. I have seen more than one manual that tells you to turn the adjustment in the wrong direction, and if you have no idea what you are trying to accomplish you will keep doing it wrong and keep failing. My manual for my 88 CR250 tells you to adjust the baseline adjustment for the exhaust port valve halves the wrong way. (That adjustment is for the shafts that move the port (whistles I call them), and if you get it wrong, you have to pull the jugs to fix it. Naturally I played with them for a while because they just didn't seem right, and that saved me from a tear down. If you follow the manual they will be locked in the shut position and totally at the wrong end of the travel so that the exhaust is half shut when it should be wide open.

So always just play with the parts until you understand the principal. Once you do that you can throw the manual away and still be better than most shade tree mechanics.
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