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  #1  
Old 27th April 2018
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Default Not measuring any crankshaft endplay

Hi guys,

I'm still plugging away at this '68 XLCH motor, and currently the crankshaft is giving me troubles...

I installed a new set of Timken bearings on the sprocket shaft and pulled it into the left case with the Jim's tool. I assumed this would be a no brainer as the little spacer between the Timken halves sets the endplay, at least in theory (yes, this is a new matched set – tapered rollers, race, and spacer). Anyhow, I have the dial indicator on the end of the sprocket shaft, and a large screwdriver wedged between the table and pinion shaft, but I don't feel or read any movement on the dial when I pry against the pinion shaft. Am I missing something here? The FSM does say to rotate the flywheels and pull up and down on the pinion shaft to measure the endplay. Is this flywheel rotation necessary (along with an extra set of hands)? It seems like the jostling would just make it harder to take a measurement. The only thread I found on the forum describes the static screwdriver method.

I recently had a local shop do a bit of machine work, and asked them to check the crankshaft endplay while they were at it. They claim to have measured .002” (and charged me dearly for it), but I would feel much better if I could repeat that measurement myself, or even just feel a bit of endplay. And if there really is none, does anybody have a part number for a shim?

Any thoughts or tips would be appreciated.

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  #2  
Old 27th April 2018
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i was able to do that measurement with the engine upright, and just by pulling/pushing on the sprocket shaft.
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  #3  
Old 27th April 2018
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Screw the sprocket shaft nut on there. Gently use your "screwdriver" to lift the nut with indicator on the shaft. Dont pry against pinion shaft.
Or flip it over and secure the nut in a vice and "lift" the case.
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Old 27th April 2018
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well to each their own but:
the way i do it is, i set the crank into the other case half and bearing and attach the cases with a couple of fasteners. this way, the crank sits naturally as in running position. this also helps with set up since you do not need to support the crank.
for grins and giggles suppose the crank hanging is placing side loading on the set, wouldn't seem to but there is clearance so it is possible considering the crank is not totally balanced in the position since there are weighted.
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Old 27th April 2018
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Thanks for the suggestions, guys. I'll see what I can find and report back. Cases are bolted together, btw.
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Old 28th April 2018
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OK, so I have the nut on the sprocket shaft and I'm still not getting any movement on the dial, even with more than gentle prying. I assume it shouldn't take much to overcome the force of gravity on the flywheels and get a reading of any existing endplay.

Any other suggestions before I take this apart and start playing around with shims?

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Old 28th April 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iron Mike View Post
Screw the sprocket shaft nut on there. Gently use your "screwdriver" to lift the nut with indicator on the shaft. Dont pry against pinion shaft.
Or flip it over and secure the nut in a vice and "lift" the case.
reread this, please OP. I think you missed one little point.
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Old 28th April 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianbbs67 View Post
reread this, please OP. I think you missed one little point.
I assumed that it wouldn't matter whether the indicator was on the shaft or the nut, if that's what you mean. Point taken, although it doesn't seem to make a difference.

I went back and rewatched the segment in Tatro's '61 CH rebuild video where he installs the assembly and checks the endplay (only by feel, of course). He does mention to rotate the flywheels a few times before checking, as they can "lock up." So, if I rotate them a few times, with the assembly still on its side, and then pry up on the nut, I get .006"~.007" in upward movement. From there it basically stays in its "up" position and further prying just kind of moves it around .001" or so. Then with further rotation it falls back down and can be pried up again .006"~.007"...

Can I conclude that I am good to go with a healthy .006"~.007" endplay? If so, thanks for holding my hand through this...
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Old 28th April 2018
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nakina , This may sound trivial but please do me a favor and install the sprocket and tighten the nut. Then rotate the crankshaft a few turns before trying to check end-play.
If the new bearing set came with the spacer it should be pre-set to allow for clearance. If it turns smoothly with no binding and minimal resistance it should be good.
I have found ( sometimes when helping others ) that if the inner races aren't seated fully you will get zero clearance when checking but will have a good rotational drag. These engines usually end up perfect after a heat cycle which allows the races to move ever so slightly.

I check mine with an inch lb. torque wrench to check for less than 10 inch lb to rotate the crankshaft.

I hope this helps set your mind at ease.
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Old 30th April 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iNSaNeSHaNe View Post
nakina , This may sound trivial but please do me a favor and install the sprocket and tighten the nut. Then rotate the crankshaft a few turns before trying to check end-play.
If the new bearing set came with the spacer it should be pre-set to allow for clearance. If it turns smoothly with no binding and minimal resistance it should be good.
I have found ( sometimes when helping others ) that if the inner races aren't seated fully you will get zero clearance when checking but will have a good rotational drag. These engines usually end up perfect after a heat cycle which allows the races to move ever so slightly.

I check mine with an inch lb. torque wrench to check for less than 10 inch lb to rotate the crankshaft.

I hope this helps set your mind at ease.
I pulled the crank out after finding that endplay, but I will definitely do this upon reassembly. I appreciate the input.
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