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Sportster Motorcycle - Bottom End Cams, Cases, Gears, Flywheel, Piston Conecting Rods, Oil Pump, etc...

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  #1  
Old 1st September 2018
T_worth T_worth is offline
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Default Crooked crankcase

I just got a 96’ sporty 1200 with a crankcase whose surfaces aren’t aligned. When the bike is at proper running temp, there is an oil leak coming from the seam of the crankcase that’s just behind the oil filter. I might have another leak further along the crankcase seam just below the oil filter.

I am just about to start a top end rebuild, and I might be replacing the clutch. I was wondering, with the engine mounts, primary cover, and cylinders off. Could I loosen the crankcase hardware just enoug to tap the crankcase in position where the surfaces are aligned better?

My thinking is if I can loosen the bolts, and tap the crankcase with a rubber mallet. Then tighten everything back up. That it might fix my oil leak. Right?
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  #2  
Old 1st September 2018
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DEEP DIVER DEEP DIVER is offline
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I think not. Once you undo the bolts and tap the case you'll break the seal on the rest of the case and the whole lot will leak. It would be best to do a full engine strip and reseal the cases.
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  #3  
Old 1st September 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T_worth View Post
I just got a 96’ sporty 1200 with a crankcase whose surfaces aren’t aligned. When the bike is at proper running temp, there is an oil leak coming from the seam of the crankcase that’s just behind the oil filter. I might have another leak further along the crankcase seam just below the oil filter.

I am just about to start a top end rebuild, and I might be replacing the clutch. I was wondering, with the engine mounts, primary cover, and cylinders off. Could I loosen the crankcase hardware just enoug to tap the crankcase in position where the surfaces are aligned better?

My thinking is if I can loosen the bolts, and tap the crankcase with a rubber mallet. Then tighten everything back up. That it might fix my oil leak. Right?
You're not going to tap the crankcases anywhere. The two crankcase halves are held in alignment by dowels. There's no play to speak of. And you wouldn't want to change the alignment even if you could. Your crankshaft engages in both crankcase halves, and the places where it engages on both sides are carefully machined to be in alignment and the pinion race is line-lapped to perfect alignment with the sprocket shaft on the opposite case half. If you could somehow change the alignment between the two case halves, you'd cause major problems for both of those bearings. Same applies to the transmission mainshaft and countershaft.

Yours is not the first motor of that vintage to get seeping along the case half seal. I have had some success in the past by carefully cleaning it (lacquer thinner), applying a vacuum to the breathers (in the heads) using a Mightyvac, and then externally applying a quality case half sealer like Three Bond. The vacuum helps pull it into the seam.
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  #4  
Old 3rd September 2018
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very ingenious
i just discovered that vacuum can be a very useful tool!! pops 13.6-28 tractor tires right off, will try it on my next tire change on my sport.
that one needs to be included in a sticky, what say ye?
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  #5  
Old 6th September 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aswracing View Post
Yours is not the first motor of that vintage to get seeping along the case half seal. I have had some success in the past by carefully cleaning it (lacquer thinner), applying a vacuum to the breathers (in the heads) using a Mightyvac, and then externally applying a quality case half sealer like Three Bond. The vacuum helps pull it into the seam.
I'm very curious about this method. Are there any tutorials or instructions on using the mityvac on the cylinder head breathers? Should I plug any other areas to ensure proper vacuum along the crankcase seam?
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  #6  
Old 8th September 2018
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on your model, you have the timing plug so you could apply the vac source there, the breather valves will naturally close off. on models without the timing plug, could use the cps hole with a rubber stopper with nipple to hook up pump, no need to pull stuff off the intake/vent sys.
it is amazing what people can come up with thinking out the box. +1 aswracing!
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Old 8th September 2018
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Quote:
using a Mightyvac, and then externally applying a quality case half sealer like Three Bond. The vacuum helps pull it into the seam
Neat! And this presumably explains why a decent non-return valve breather can reduce oil leaks.
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  #8  
Old 26th September 2018
T_worth T_worth is offline
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With further progress on the top end rebuild, I removed the cylinders and base gasket and am down to the crankcase. From looking inside the crankcase through the front cylinder base. I can actually see the seam of the crankcase.

Instead of using a MityVac, could I just clean the inside mating surface with cleaner and apply Three Bond 1184 Gasket Sealer on the inside AND outside of the crankcase. Wouldn't that seal up the leak?

https://imgur.com/a/fKhtaZi
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  #9  
Old 26th September 2018
Turbo Sporty 48 Turbo Sporty 48 is offline
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Why didn't you try Aarons suggestion?
If it were me, I would probably slobber that goo in places it should not be, choke up the oil pump and lunch the motor. Hope you are better than me.
Gonna tear down the rascal? Welding or goo? Good luck.
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Old 26th September 2018
T_worth T_worth is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo Sporty 48 View Post
Why didn't you try Aarons suggestion?
If it were me, I would probably slobber that goo in places it should not be, choke up the oil pump and lunch the motor. Hope you are better than me.
Gonna tear down the rascal? Welding or goo? Good luck.

Its not that I'm against trying to use the vac, I just thought this would be a more direct application. A little goo smear on the inside and outside of seam and good to go. Do people have doubts about applying sealant on the inside of the crankcase?
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