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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #31  
Old 2nd December 2009
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74_XLH_WINCHESTER_VA 74_XLH_WINCHESTER_VA is offline
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Originally Posted by anctfrm View Post
Did the spacer fix the problem??? I have a similar issue with my '79. Mine actually loses power while running when it gets hot.
Possibly too early to tell. I haven't ridden it much since the weather has turned cold here in VA, and when it has been nice out, I have had other things to do. I did take it out the other weekend and it seemed to have fixed the problem, but it was pretty cold that day so not 100% sure. Didn't hurt it any, I don't believe, other than having to readjust the carb, and extend the choke cable.
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  #32  
Old 9th August 2020
marsman marsman is offline
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Even this is an old thread, I thought I would add my experiences in case it could be useful to some else.

I have a '69 XLCH, so it still has the magneto ignition. (mag was recently rebuilt by Hunt magnetos to include neodynium magnets, so spark should no longer be an issue.)

My dad put a Bendix carb on this bike probably at least 30 years ago. I know he always had trouble starting it because he drilled a little hole in the air cleaner cover so he could spray starter fluid (or maybe just raw gas) directly into the carb. I got the bike back on the road about five years ago after sitting for at least 20 years.

I also had trouble starting the bike. When cold, I could kick over and over and nothing: no spit, no cough, nada. Carb had been completely rebuilt, all new parts completely cleaned. I could pull the air cleaner off and pump the accelerator pump over and over, and get absolutely no fuel, not even a hint of fumes. Spray a bunch of carb cleaner in the throat of the carb, and it would start right up and keep running fine, so the problem clearly was that the carb was not flowing fuel. I realized that the issue was the float valve was sticking in the seat, so no fuel could fill the float bowl. My procedure became to shut off the fuel with the engine still running and run it til it died, ensuring that the float valve not in its seat so it couldn't stick. After that, no problem with cold starts any more. Note that the sticking had nothing to do with an old float valve; that along with all other rubber parts was new.

The other issue is related to what started this thread, that is hard staring when hot. Since getting the bike running a few years ago, this has been a constant problem. When really not, stopping for gas almost certainly meant over a half hour before it would start. No spitting or coughing, just nothing. I'd have to wait until it was pretty much dead cold, and then it would start in one or two kicks. Based on the content of this thread, I thought I would try the insulator block.

After installation of the block, I tried a couple of rides where I got it hot, shut it off and waited 5 minutes, then started it back up. Seemed to be better. But a couple of weeks ago, I went for a ride on a pretty hot day and stopped for gas. Ended up with the same starting problem as before. Waiting til it was cold was the only solution; then it started up with two kicks.

So the jury is still out for me on the insulator block. It may have helped a little, but certainly not a complete cure. I'll add to this thread if I come up with any new info.
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  #33  
Old 10th August 2020
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All real world experiences are welcome here.

Needles and seats can be a problem. Many are Viton (rubber) tipped. They can cause problems especially when exposed to alcohol. (The methanol they blend into your gas)

Ethanol is less dense and affects the mixture settings. It's addition will lean out your mixture. It also vaporizes at a lower temperature and can lead to vapor lock.

If your needle is "tipped" with anything. I would suggest replacing he needle and seat with a sold bras, steel, whatever is available set up. We simply can't use them when running pure Methanol.

If you can obtain it try to but some Avgas - yor local airport has a lot of it. Experiment with that. If the problem goes away when using known good fuel you can look further into your carb setup.
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  #34  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Originally Posted by marsman View Post
So the jury is still out for me on the insulator block. It may have helped a little, but certainly not a complete cure. I'll add to this thread if I come up with any new info.
I ended up ditching the Bendix a few years ago and installing an S&S even though I had made the custom breather for the Bendix. Haven't had any starting or running issues since the installation of the S&S.
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