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  #291  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
DK Custom's Avatar
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We are back full swing into this build!

Time is still short, but we have a lot of motivation, so we're making the time!

First thing we did was measure/place the oil tank, battery box, & rear brake master cylinder in place and see if there would be enough room for a chain tensioner.

Side note- I was going to try and get by without running a chain tensioner, however, Doc Flynn was over a couple of weeks ago (he's been building hardtails for decades), and he was absolutely sure I need one. He pointed out where even the smallest amount of slop on decel would end up ruining the paint on the fender cut out.

So, we are going with this chain tensioner...




...and it looks like, with some creativity...

...it's gonna be pretty tight...





...we will be able to fit it and still keep the M/C, oil tank, battery box and exhaust where we want.




Next up was revisiting the wiring.

Here is a diagram of the stock wiring-







Here is what we had it reduced down to originally-







And this is the new diagram we came up with yesterday.



Even simpler!


Looking at everything with fresh eyes...






We will be ditching the bracket seen in the photo below, in favor of a billet bracket that we'll be cutting to go around the frame and around this coil.




Built into the bracket will be the on/off switch.


Whether we put the coil to the side of the frame tube (like pictured above) or to the front of the frame tube...that will be decided after we look at it both ways with everything else in place.


The other things we are working on...and if anyone has any input/ideas/photos/drawings, we welcome them...

1. We have two hydraulically actuated brake light switches, pictured below.




Goodridge 03-6939

We decided we did not like them. They are too big/bulky. We want to find something smaller to trigger the brake light when either the front or rear brakes are applied.


2. Still looking for the ideal front brake M/C-brake lever set up.


3. We are working on some design ideas for axle covers and a steering stem bolt. Any ideas welcome!

4. I need to choose some good looking battery cable. The run will be less than a foot for each the + & the -. I could go with plain black...but am entertaining other looks.

5. We are still deciding between modifying the stock shift and brake lever, buying some, or coming up with a nice design. Any ideas welcome!

6. The steering head is going to be quite open below the headlight, so we need to come up with a nice design for a neck badge.

7. Need to locate the wiring to be used that will be visible...like wire to headlight. I'm thinking something like this.




There are a bunch of other little and big things, that we pretty much have nailed down. Just a matter of doing them.

Next week will be a short one, and the time on the SBS Chop will be spent mostly cutting stuff and getting things in order. Then week after next we will be on the actual bike installing.

Kevin
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  #292  
Old 1 Week Ago
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I was over in the shop earlier. Devin had just started the drawing in the Fusion 360 software for the billet coil holder.

It will have a cut-out for this on-off switch in it.








We also received the chain tensioner in the mail today...





...Friday we will be working on the bike again, and one of the things will be figuring out what modifications will be needed for the weld-on ears.





Kevin
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  #293  
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Got a bit more done yesterday, we are back to making steady headway!


First thing was to look and see how to fit the pulley guard over the sprocket and chain-






Since they stick out further than the pulley and belt, we are marking where we are going to have to grind some metal away for clearance-







Outside, on a wet towel...







...if the chrome gets too hot it will discolor, so between the soaking wet towel and frequent spray-downs...








...we get it ground down enough...








...that after several test fitting, everything clears.






Time to bolt it up with the Master Cylinder and roll it around a bit to ensure we have the clearance...






More in next post.

Kevin
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  #294  
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After getting the cover and master cylinder in place, we now know exactly how much room we have to work with for the chain tensioner.







There is not a lot of room...






...First Try...







...maybe back here...nope...







...back up front, near the front sprocket again...







...we spent a bunch of time trying different locations, talking about what would and would not work. Conclusion- we are going to re-fabricate the weld-on tabs that came with it and and tack it up close to the front sprocket and make sure everything clears.

Hard to tell from the photo's, but it is very close to the frame rail on one side and to the oil tank on the other.


Last thing we looked at was the brake arm and clutch arm (shift arm).

We have 3 choices:

1. Modify the stock pieces
2. Design & Fab some from scratch
3. Find some to purchase

Here we are messing with one design...




The other thing we talked about...since the shifter is going to be the clutch pedal, I will probably want a "peg" that is larger than normal to enable better control over the clutch friction zone....And we want the clutch and brake pegs/pedals to match. So there's that to think about too when deciding on arm design.


That's all we did on the bike yesterday.

*********************

My current "to do" list is:

Decide on clutch and brake arms.

Come up with a re-design of the top motor mount.

Get some more pieces from Bung King for above.

Come up with a design for the Steering Stem Bolt, and one that will also be able to be used on axle covers.

Get the switch and indicator lights installed in the headlight bucket.

Order misc. cable, wire & hose.

Devin is working on the billet coil and switch mount.


Kevin
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  #295  
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Git back ta wurk!!!
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  #296  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flame__ View Post
Git back ta wurk!!!


Got some more done on her today!


Kevin
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  #297  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DK Custom View Post

7. Need to locate the wiring to be used that will be visible...like wire to headlight. I'm thinking something like this.

Years ago I helped with wiring an old street rod. Most of the wiring was hidden, but for the places that had to be exposed I run the wires through an appropriate size of heat shrink tube and then covered that with the braided shielding repurposed from various sizes of old radio antenna coax. I had access to a whole bunch of various sizes of coax scraps, so it was just a matter of finding the right size so the shielding was slightly larger than the diameter of the wire run, then carefully peeling the outer cover off so as not to scratch the braid, then slipping the shielding back over the center core to expand the inside diameter and cutting it off. Then slide it back over the wire and stretch it back out to fit the diameter. If you leave the heat shrink tube a a half inch or so longer on the ends, you can double the end of it back over the braid (very patience and time consuming) and heat it slightly to keep the braid from unraveling. The old guy that had the car ran it fairly regularly on nice days for several years and never had any trouble with the wiring I did like that. Digging up scrap coax in the right size may be a trick, but certainly there has to be some radio hobbyists around your area.
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  #298  
Old 3 Days Ago
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DK Custom DK Custom is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RDHenley View Post
Years ago I helped with wiring an old street rod. Most of the wiring was hidden, but for the places that had to be exposed I run the wires through an appropriate size of heat shrink tube and then covered that with the braided shielding repurposed from various sizes of old radio antenna coax. I had access to a whole bunch of various sizes of coax scraps, so it was just a matter of finding the right size so the shielding was slightly larger than the diameter of the wire run, then carefully peeling the outer cover off so as not to scratch the braid, then slipping the shielding back over the center core to expand the inside diameter and cutting it off. Then slide it back over the wire and stretch it back out to fit the diameter. If you leave the heat shrink tube a a half inch or so longer on the ends, you can double the end of it back over the braid (very patience and time consuming) and heat it slightly to keep the braid from unraveling. The old guy that had the car ran it fairly regularly on nice days for several years and never had any trouble with the wiring I did like that. Digging up scrap coax in the right size may be a trick, but certainly there has to be some radio hobbyists around your area.
Cool, thank you for the tips!

Kevin
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