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  #41  
Old 27th February 2020
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When messing with a high energy ignition it is vital to give any sparks a place to go.
If you do not provide a path for spark, the spark voltage increases beyond design levels.
High voltage behaves much differently and WILL find a path to ground.
It will jump to anything, even other wires or feed back into the ignition module and burn it.
It will find any weak spot in the insulation inside the coil and make a burn spot.
Once it has made a burn spot it leaves a carbon trail, and that carbon trail is like a super highway for high voltage!

I would not be far from wrong in saying that most electronic ignition failures (not caused by improper wiring/installation) are due to stray high voltage.
Point are not affected by this except for the coil, and besides the voltages are much lower with a points coil, so there is much less chance of damaging a coil in that situation.

Get a clear timing plug and a light and set the timing correctly!
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  #42  
Old 27th February 2020
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Checking 1st video. Did intake valve pushrod seat < go down > so pushrod spins when at TDC?

Edit. Forget it. Late to the party.

2nd edit. Points guy here that uses dyna with weights from time to time.
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  #43  
Old 27th February 2020
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I don’t see it mentioned in the crane instructions, but any other timing procedure will state that the front cylinder needs to be on compression stroke with the appropriate mark lined up in the hole. Cycle your kicker with your thumb over the front spark plug hole. When it starts pushing your thumb off that is compression stroke, then start looking for the tdc mark. I would give that a shot. Electronic ignitions are usually sensitive to grounding through the spark plugs - make sure they are plugged into the boots and grounded to the engine somewhere. I mentioned in your other thread to set the ignition unit in the middle and try it. I didn’t mean for that to be accepted as the end of your timing troubles, you still should master the static timing procedure. But if it works, then you know you are getting close. See if the compression stroke makes a difference.
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  #44  
Old 27th February 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doodah man View Post
I don’t see it mentioned in the crane instructions, but any other timing procedure will state that the front cylinder needs to be on compression stroke with the appropriate mark lined up in the hole. Cycle your kicker with your thumb over the front spark plug hole. When it starts pushing your thumb off that is compression stroke, then start looking for the tdc mark. I would give that a shot. Electronic ignitions are usually sensitive to grounding through the spark plugs - make sure they are plugged into the boots and grounded to the engine somewhere. I mentioned in your other thread to set the ignition unit in the middle and try it. I didn’t mean for that to be accepted as the end of your timing troubles, you still should master the static timing procedure. But if it works, then you know you are getting close. See if the compression stroke makes a difference.
Ah this makes sense - will check that it's on compression stroke and try setting again tonight
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  #45  
Old 27th February 2020
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See the last page of the Crane instructions. There is a high risk of damaging the Hi4 beyond repairable if you crank the engine without grounded plugs in the plug wires. We usually firmly ground the plugs to the cylinder heads ensuring that they will not fall off while cranking. A local guy here when unfamiliar with this ruined two Hi4 ignition modules before he got clued in
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  #46  
Old 28th February 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IronMick View Post
See the last page of the Crane instructions. There is a high risk of damaging the Hi4 beyond repairable if you crank the engine without grounded plugs in the plug wires. We usually firmly ground the plugs to the cylinder heads ensuring that they will not fall off while cranking. A local guy here when unfamiliar with this ruined two Hi4 ignition modules before he got clued in
Whoop - any way to tell if it's fried? Feel like I might be safe since it's kick only.
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  #47  
Old 28th February 2020
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Originally Posted by nychopper View Post
Whoop - any way to tell if it's fried? Feel like I might be safe since it's kick only.
I did not do it myself and it has been at least a decade since I had a Hi4. Maybe another forum member can chip in with an idea. My best recollection is that it should be pretty obvious if something is wrong with it.
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  #48  
Old 28th February 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nychopper View Post
Whoop - any way to tell if it's fried? Feel like I might be safe since it's kick only.
You could put the plugs in their boots and make sure they have rock solid grounds. Have the electrode down so the spark can be clearly seen. Have someone observe them, maybe in low light while you kick 'er over.

Hopefully you will have a strong bright blue spark from both plugs.
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