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  #31  
Old 5th January 2017
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Either way. I have a new solenoid and Bendix gear coming. One of them is bound to fix my problem

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  #32  
Old 5th January 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sharp89 View Post
So battery drops to 10.2ish while cranking ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharp89 View Post
From what I just read. If the battery maintains a range from 9.5 - 10.5 volts under the load, then its good ...
I expect that your battery is good enough and that the problem is elsewhere. The starter motor draws a very large current; if the battery is low there is not enough to fire up one of the modern electronic ignition systems.

More than a few of the guys on this forum over the past decade have stated the 10.5; some have even said 11.0. My own individual experience has been different - mine has functioned on less. I should state this in any posts I answer that need this info.

Note that these numbers are for true, modern electronic ignitions such as the Crane Hi-4 and the Ultima. Points ignitions will light up under far less, but I do not know the numbers. Also I do not know what is required by the "not-quite-electronic" ignitions like the Dynatek S.
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  #33  
Old 5th January 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IronMick View Post
I expect that your battery is good enough and that the problem is elsewhere. The starter motor draws a very large current; if the battery is low there is not enough to fire up one of the modern electronic ignition systems.

More than a few of the guys on this forum over the past decade have stated the 10.5; some have even said 11.0. My own individual experience has been different - mine has functioned on less. I should state this in any posts I answer that need this info.

Note that these numbers are for true, modern electronic ignitions such as the Crane Hi-4 and the Ultima. Points ignitions will light up under far less, but I do not know the numbers. Also I do not know what is required by the "not-quite-electronic" ignitions like the Dynatek S.
I did put the multimeter on the solenoid starter stud (the one wired to the relay) when I crank it fluctuates between 0-10 volts. So it seems that the voltage from the start button/relay to the solenoid is fluctuating somehow and causing the solenoid to disengage maybe? My next check will be to disconnect that wire and meter out of the relay, or possibly jumper a wire straight from the battery to the solenoid's starter stud

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  #34  
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I do not recall about the state of the solenoid, if it is old used, new, or refurbished. If it is old, used then it is undoubtedly, IMO, the problem.

They get filthy inside, and the two studs wear where they contact the big brass washer. Then it first becomes unreliable, finally stops working altogether.

Completely dismantle, clean, inspect.

If the studs are worn note that they only wear on one side so you can simply rotate them [one is easy, the other requires some care].

Note that the cap is plastic so you must not tighten too much the two big nuts - just enough to start compressing the split lockwashers.

Note also that the parts fit into square or rectangular holes in that plastic lid, which is spring loaded. It can be a bear to refit the lid. So when dismantling use care so you do not change the shape of things.
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  #35  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IronMick View Post
I do not recall about the state of the solenoid, if it is old used, new, or refurbished. If it is old, used then it is undoubtedly, IMO, the problem.

They get filthy inside, and the two studs wear where they contact the big brass washer. Then it first becomes unreliable, finally stops working altogether.

Completely dismantle, clean, inspect.

If the studs are worn note that they only wear on one side so you can simply rotate them [one is easy, the other requires some care].

Note that the cap is plastic so you must not tighten too much the two big nuts - just enough to start compressing the split lockwashers.

Note also that the parts fit into square or rectangular holes in that plastic lid, which is spring loaded. It can be a bear to refit the lid. So when dismantling use care so you do not change the shape of things.
What about the voltage to the solenoid's starter stud (the one wired to the relay), if that's fluctuating, isn't that an issue? If that voltage is fluctuating isn't that essentially like pressing the start button repeatedly? Therefore not allowing the solenoid to stay engaged

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  #36  
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Yes, do check out that issue first. Keep this other issue in mind for later.
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You have received good help, thus no need for my 2 cents...so, just a couple comments:

1. Voltage fluctuation, under load, could be a poor connection, combined with excessive load, as may be expected with burnt solenoid contacts adding to the circuit resistance. If your battery cables are good, (both ends of both cables) and there is no corrosion inside the cables, then the focus remains on the solenoid/starter.

2. Regarding 10.5 volts as being the threshold for a potential battery problem: It may crank at a lower voltage and an electronic ignition module may fire at a lower voltage, but below 10.5 serves as a field load test. For example, if a lead-acid battery is 12.6 volts at full charge (12.8 for AGM), then each cell, fully charged is worth 2.1 volts. Subtract one dead cell from the battery capability and that is 10.5 VDC...if battery cables are good, etc.

One other thought: http://xlforum.net/forums/s....php?t=1896417
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  #38  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterdoc View Post
... so, just a couple comments ...
I put your Solenoid click or chatter thread into the Stickys. Another one of the many that I have missed
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Old 6th January 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IronMick View Post
I put your Solenoid click or chatter thread into the Stickys. Another one of the many that I have missed
Thanks, Mick
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  #40  
Old 6th January 2017
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Scroll down past the Electrical section to Starter / Solenoid. It is in there.
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