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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #21  
Old 12th October 2011
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Default mag timing

like sunchild said one tooth off. check your mag set up with the photo to be sure some parts are not missing, from the mag being removed before you got it.

had one the other day that was doing about the same thing yours is. owner could not get it to time right, but could get it to run rough.
found parts 21-29-28-63, along with some others, missing. This greatly affects the rotor shaft/rotor shaft gear.

I used a washer of about the same thickness (since I didn't have the parts on hand) to raise the mag from the adapter plate. runs great.


http://xlforum.net/forums/s...d.php?t=981982
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  #22  
Old 12th October 2011
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+1 on the 'out a tooth' diagnosis. Loosen the mag, lift it up, rotate the mag slightly and drop it back down. Repeat if necessary and set the timing.

I had a similar problem; this thread may have some useful info (or not): http://xlforum.net/forums/s...d.php?t=371127
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  #23  
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This is great info. I saw a 1963 bike recently, and might go have another look.
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  #24  
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Smile continunity test hook up

Quote:
Originally Posted by GA_Ironhead View Post
I'll add that when you use a continuity tester or an ohm-meter to determine the point opening, the wire from the points to the primary coil windings must be disconnected. Otherwise, you'll always have continuity through the coil.

Also, the wheels should only be turned in the direction of normal rotation when finding the timing mark. This pre-loads the gears and accounts for gear lash that could affect timing.
Hi could you please explain how to hook up tester to determine the point opening. original 1960 xlch meter seems to be a better way. thank you Bigal883
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  #25  
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want to use the light and need to know how to hook it up on my 1960 xlch. thank you bigal883. dont know if my first message went thru.
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  #26  
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i use a volt/ohmeter w/continuity beep.using alligator clips i connect one lead to the fixed or non moving side of the points the other lead connected the movable arm of the points.when the points open the continuity is open and stops beeping.it will beep constantly when the points are closed. a light would work simular.a previous post mentions removing the coil wire also.
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  #27  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigal883 View Post
want to use the light and need to know how to hook it up on my 1960 xlch. thank you bigal883. dont know if my first message went thru.
What type of light are you referring to? The only type of test light I know of requires battery power to work, and your mag does not use a battery. Maybe there are test lights that provide their own battery power? I don't know.

Post #1 talks about using a light but doesn't explain how to use it. And I don't know how he does it. Maybe somehow he uses an auxillary battery to light the light? If so I'm not sure you should be connecting a battery to a mag. Maybe someone else knows??

There is an explanation in post 19 section 4 on connecting a test light. I believe this is from a manual. But again I don't know what powers the light if there is no battery. Is there a battery in the tester? Anyone?

Using a continuity tester is just as accurate and just as easy. Connect one lead to the lug where the wires attach to the points and the other to ground like the mag's case.

As mentioned in post 3 you should disconnect the coil wire.
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  #28  
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Thumbs up thank you

will give it a go sat . first time trying this seems a lot better than old paer way. tanks again.
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  #29  
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What Bruce and needspeed said. You want to test for continuity/open circuit. One side to the fixed, grounded side of the points and the other to the electrically insulated moveable side of the points. A continuity test light with built-in battery or a multimeter testing for resistance both do the same thing.
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