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  #31  
Old 8 Hours Ago
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staniel staniel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iron Mike View Post
What procedure did you use to verify timing? Has the bike started and ran with the timing in its current state?
I used the manual procedure: set the gap to 0.18, lined up the timing mark (line) from the flywheel to be in the dead center of the hole, used the continuity setting on the voltmeter to make sure that when I move the cam slightly with my fingers there is no connection. When the points are touching, there is continuity.

The bike has run with the timing in its current state. When I've had a starting issue, I confirm the ignition timing, but haven't had to adjust it. I confirm the timing as a sanity check.
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  #32  
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staniel staniel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doodah man View Post
kicking speed will not overcome the spring tension and extend the points ignition flyweights out to the 40º advance position. at kicking speed the plugs will spark somewhere closer to 10º before top dead center. at this low speed if you don't impart enough force into the flywheels for the momentum to carry the pistons from whatever degree (~10º) btdc through tdc the ignition will cause the spark to happen too early in the cycle and without the necessary momentum, it will force the piston down and the kicker back up like you are experiencing. the only way to overcome this is to adjust the timing or increase the kicking speed. if you adjust the timing closer to tdc (meaning, for instance 35º instead of 40º) you will also bring the timing at kicking speed closer to tdc by 5º (or by however many degrees you adjust it) which will lessen or completely eliminate kick back and yet still have enough advance to run properly above the rpm that brings on max advance. it's a compromise, but you have to listen to what your bike is telling you. if it's kicking back at your current setting, then you need to adjust the timing accordingly, even if it is "spot on by the book". as for kicking speed, it's all technique to include not allowing the kicker to slip and hurt your knee. if you search "kicker technique" you will find lots of posts on the subject.
It kicks back at the start of the stroke. I know that I need to follow thru but I literally can't because when I go to put all my force into the kicker, I get as far as about an inch before it kicks back at me.

Think of a clicking pen. When you're done writing, you click the pen a tiny amount and the plunger shoots back up. That's basically what's happening.
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  #33  
Old 7 Hours Ago
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Retard your timing.
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  #34  
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What position is your points plate in? Close to center of the stand off bolts??
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  #35  
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Iron Mike Iron Mike is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by staniel View Post
I used the manual procedure: set the gap to 0.18, lined up the timing mark (line) from the flywheel to be in the dead center of the hole, used the continuity setting on the voltmeter to make sure that when I move the cam slightly with my fingers there is no connection. When the points are touching, there is continuity.

The bike has run with the timing in its current state. When I've had a starting issue, I confirm the ignition timing, but haven't had to adjust it. I confirm the timing as a sanity check.
Points should break open at the very end of points cam rotational travel. You are using small lobe, correct?
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  #36  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iron Mike View Post
Points should break open at the very end of points cam rotational travel. You are using small lobe, correct?
Yes, I'm using the small lobe. The points break open just as the cam follower begins to ride on the lobe. I used my voltmeter on the continuity setting to check this.

When the timing mark is lined up in the middle of the inspection hole, points are connected (just before the cam follower reaches the lobe). I rotate the cam CCW slightly with my fingers (fully advance the cam) so the follower begins to ride on the small lobe and the voltmeter confirms there is no continuity because it is no longer beeping.

Basically I followed this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mKVh4pbyh2A
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  #37  
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staniel staniel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doodah man View Post
What position is your points plate in? Close to center of the stand off bolts??
Yes, I believe they are close to the center of the stand off bolts.
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  #38  
Old 2 Hours Ago
Iron Mike Iron Mike is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by staniel View Post
Yes, I'm using the small lobe. The points break open just as the cam follower begins to ride on the lobe. I used my voltmeter on the continuity setting to check this.

When the timing mark is lined up in the middle of the inspection hole, points are connected (just before the cam follower reaches the lobe). I rotate the cam CCW slightly with my fingers (fully advance the cam) so the follower begins to ride on the small lobe and the voltmeter confirms there is no continuity because it is no longer beeping.

Basically I followed this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mKVh4pbyh2A
That is too advanced. Points should just minutely break at the extreme end of rotation, not the beginning. Beep should stop at the very absolute end of rotation.
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