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  #11  
Old 24th April 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JensWest View Post
OK.
So, in practic, a 6 Ohm/50 W resistor would solve my problem now and also have me covered if I one day would decide that I'd like to go with a rear LED turn signal?
Well - As I already mentioned, you're dancing around the exact level where the TSM works or does not work - We are using 12v as the nominal calculation voltage, but the real voltage fluctuates upward from 12.5v to 13.8v (or maybe even 14v) which skews the calculations... (which I suspect is the point of sportsterdoc asking about voltage levels at different conditions)

So - I can't guarantee if you put a 6-ohm resistor in each side that the combined load between your (now) low-current front bulbs, the resistor & new (?-current) LED bulbs in the rear that you'll be 100% functional...

The rule-of-thumb is to put one 6-ohm resistor in place of every stock incandescent bulb you change to LED - Meaning, if you change only one on a side (like the rear), only one resistor is used - but if you change both front & rear to LEDs, then two 6-ohm resistors are used on each side to load the line with enough current for the TSM to work as designed...

You have a different config than that since you've already replaced the STOCK bulbs with something pulling less current...

I'm not trying to leave you hanging, but I really can't answer the question definitively because of the variations at work here... I am certain at the moment that only one resistor per side is needed (with your new bulbs) to load the TSM sufficiently to work (barring any other problems)...

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Last edited by IXL2Relax; 24th April 2018 at 18:08..
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  #12  
Old 24th April 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
...which I suspect is the point of sportsterdoc asking about voltage levels at different conditions...
[/B]
Yep
Be good to know if it is a voltage problem or the issue compounded by a voltage problem.
For example, a failing regulator may give higher than rated voltage (13.8 to 14.8), thus less current is drawn for the same wattage. I do not know if that would affect the TSM or not.
Usually excessively high voltage will first burn out the headlight

I will continue to preach about reporting voltages:

http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread...1784651&page=3
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  #13  
Old 24th April 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterdoc View Post
what are battery voltages:
1. Key on accessories?
2. Key on ignition position?
3. Engine at idle?
4. Engine at ~2500 rpm?
1. 12.5
2. 12.1
3. 14.1
4. 14.2
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  #14  
Old 25th April 2018
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Originally Posted by JensWest View Post
1. 12.5
2. 12.1
3. 14.1
4. 14.2
Normal, although #2 is a bit low, but key may have been on a while before voltage read.

Be interesting to know the resistance of the bulbs.

I would expect a 27 watt (Phillips, Sylvania or =) 1156 to be 2.1 amps.
With R = E/I, 12.8/2.1 = 6 ohms, hence the 6 ohm resistor recommendations by IXL2Relax.

Measuring the resistance will help you match the appropriate resistor...for the current bulbs.

Many/most LEDs, with the same lumen output as incandescent, draw about 1/8 of the amps.
So an 1156 LED may draw only 0.26 amp, thus a 6 ohm resistor the best match.

Some quality LEDs are even more efficient. The ones in this link are only 0.18 amp.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...Specifications

If you have a high output 1156, the resistance may be less.
For example, if it draws 3 amps, 12.8/3 = 4.27 ohms.
Don't know if these exist, just talking theory.

Do you have package info?
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  #15  
Old 25th April 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterdoc View Post
Be interesting to know the resistance of the bulbs.
Interesting discussion (of theory) here:
https://forums.overclockers.com.au/t...goes-up.554574

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  #16  
Old 25th April 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterdoc View Post
Yep
Be good to know if it is a voltage problem or the issue compounded by a voltage problem.
For example, a failing regulator may give higher than rated voltage (13.8 to 14.8), thus less current is drawn for the same wattage. I do not know if that would affect the TSM or not.
Usually excessively high voltage will first burn out the headlight

I will continue to preach about reporting voltages:

http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread...1784651&page=3
Sorry. I missed this post before I posted the voltages.
But nothing seem to be out of the ordinary there than.
Thank you.
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  #17  
Old 25th April 2018
JensWest JensWest is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterdoc View Post
Normal, although #2 is a bit low, but key may have been on a while before voltage read.

Be interesting to know the resistance of the bulbs.

I would expect a 27 watt (Phillips, Sylvania or =) 1156 to be 2.1 amps.
With R = E/I, 12.8/2.1 = 6 ohms, hence the 6 ohm resistor recommendations by IXL2Relax.

Measuring the resistance will help you match the appropriate resistor...for the current bulbs.

Many/most LEDs, with the same lumen output as incandescent, draw about 1/8 of the amps.
So an 1156 LED may draw only 0.26 amp, thus a 6 ohm resistor the best match.

Some quality LEDs are even more efficient. The ones in this link are only 0.18 amp.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...Specifications

If you have a high output 1156, the resistance may be less.
For example, if it draws 3 amps, 12.8/3 = 4.27 ohms.
Don't know if these exist, just talking theory.

Do you have package info?
The Phillips bulbs that were in the bikes original turn signals was 21 W and came with the bike, so I don't have any additional information about them, I'm afraid.

Yes, I get why a 6 Ohm/50 W resistor is appropriate if I'd have an LED, but I didn't understand why it also is suitable even if I had a light bulb with just a slightly too low wattage.

Thanks again for your answers.
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  #18  
Old 25th April 2018
JensWest JensWest is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
Well - As I already mentioned, you're dancing around the exact level where the TSM works or does not work - We are using 12v as the nominal calculation voltage, but the real voltage fluctuates upward from 12.5v to 13.8v (or maybe even 14v) which skews the calculations... (which I suspect is the point of sportsterdoc asking about voltage levels at different conditions)

So - I can't guarantee if you put a 6-ohm resistor in each side that the combined load between your (now) low-current front bulbs, the resistor & new (?-current) LED bulbs in the rear that you'll be 100% functional...

The rule-of-thumb is to put one 6-ohm resistor in place of every stock incandescent bulb you change to LED - Meaning, if you change only one on a side (like the rear), only one resistor is used - but if you change both front & rear to LEDs, then two 6-ohm resistors are used on each side to load the line with enough current for the TSM to work as designed...

You have a different config than that since you've already replaced the STOCK bulbs with something pulling less current...

I'm not trying to leave you hanging, but I really can't answer the question definitively because of the variations at work here... I am certain at the moment that only one resistor per side is needed (with your new bulbs) to load the TSM sufficiently to work (barring any other problems)...

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So here's what I did.

(Front turn signals was the same throughout.)

First I replaced one of the rear turn signals with the original 21 W turn signal and then with the previous, non stock, 21 W rear turn signal and neither of those combinations worked when the motor was running.

I then wired a 6 Ohm/50 W resistor to the new, 21 W, rear turn signal and it worked as it should with the motor running.
I also tried with only the resistor on one side, with no rear turn signal, and the front turn signal then worked as it should with the motor running.
I think that the latter tells me that I'll be fine with both a 21 W light bulb or an LED, in combination with the present front turn signals, if I use these resistors.

Out of curiosity, I also tried the 8 Ohm/25 W resistor.
Together with the turn signal, it worked, but got really hot after just a short while.
By itself, with no rear turn signal, the front one never blinked and it of course also got hot.
And the 6 Ohm/50 W resistor never got hot.

Thank you so much for your input.
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  #19  
Old 25th April 2018
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Thanks for the report on your testing - It should help others in the future...

Glad you're getting to a resolution...

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