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  #11  
Old 4th September 2019
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all that is big brother looking out for ya.
yes you can get rid of it, there is an article on the forum for it. it would be like my 74ch, have to hold the button down till turn is complete, sometimes a bugger with all the clutching and braking going on also. here, if you use the still legal hand signals, you will be run over.
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  #12  
Old 4th September 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by broknluck View Post
I gots schematics .multi tester and shop manual. I chopped the fender ,removing the curcit board and shredded turn wires. I built a plate mount using a common 2 wire trailer light as a stop light and two led turn signals',all the Blk wires are grounded.I thought it would be a cake walk but of course there is a box of electric mombo/jumbo stopping it.If I could I rid the bike of every pandoras box it has... This should not be this hard to put on T.S and S.LT.
You said you read the SP section on the TS function - You said you found the underseat connector - You said that you checked the connector & the voltages there were OK...

So - I don't understand why you are having problems making the connections that are needed... There are five wires involved which I mentioned previously as to color and function...

If you are implementing LED TS units in the rear location, then the Turn Signal Module will require 'load resistors' on the TS lines to compensate for the lack of load by the LEDs - That's in the Sportsterpedia as well...

Did you check & identify the wires for the lights before installing them? Are you sure which wires are power & which are grounds? With LEDs, it's important to know the difference between those... They won't work correctly if connected backwards - If they don't have reverse-wiring protection, you can actually damage the LEDs if they are wired backwards...

You're going to have to be more exact with your explanation of the current situation - We know they're not working, but you are going to need to describe EXACTLY, IN GREAT DETAIL what work you did and what is and is not working right now...

Pictures would probably be very helpful...

I'd like to help you get everything working - but I'm still in the dark... Help me help you...

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  #13  
Old 5th September 2019
broknluck broknluck is offline
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Please explain Load Resistors .I did use LED Turn Signals and non stock tail light.The turn signals wires are both Black and Stop Light has Black And Red wires.I grounded each unit with its ground wire.Where can I buy load resistors and what would happen if the Turn Signal Module was removed.I did install a rectifier/regulator from Ohio Cycle Electric if that is important.it brought volts from 18 + to 13.6. I do not understand why its designed this way.Thankyou Ill try to get pictures sone how
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  #14  
Old 5th September 2019
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Answer These Questions:

1) Does your bike have the STOCK turn signal module (TSM) located under the seat, mounted on the fender? Did you remove, clean & reconnect the wiring connector?

2) Did you PRE-TEST the rear lights to make sure they worked - and to make sure you know which wires are power & which are grounds?

3) Does the Taillight Light Up?

4) Does the brake light work? Does the bulb light up when you press either the front or the rear brake lever (or both)?

5) Do any of the turn signals light up when you press the turn signal button? Do they turn off when you press the button again?


The Sportsterpedia page on the Turn Signals explains and diagrams how the Turn Signal Module (TSM) works and includes the information about Load Resistors...
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...3#turn_signals

Did you read over that? The taillight & brake light don't need resistors, but the TSM needs them to work correctly...

Here's a previous thread that discusses the Resistors - Read it over and see if that helps:
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2069154


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  #15  
Old 8th September 2019
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It has the stock TSM,Wire Connectors are clean and reconnected the Circut Board .All lights work off bike only running light works.Been reading like in motorcycle school to find answers;It blows the fuses on both ends of fuse box.The first when switch is turned on ,the second after handle bar power switch is turned on.Could a faulty Speedometer be the cause? I may try a load resistor.I understand HD changed its back wiring after 1998 causing woe to others.

Last edited by broknluck; 8th September 2019 at 15:00..
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  #16  
Old 8th September 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by broknluck View Post
It has the stock TSM,Wire Connectors are clean and reconnected the Circut Board .All lights work off bike only running light works.Been reading like in motorcycle school to find answers;It blows the fuses on both ends of fuse box.The first when switch is turned on ,the second after handle bar power switch is turned on.Could a faulty Speedometer be the cause?
Obviously, you have at least TWO SHORTS for that to happen... If this only began when you added the new taillight assembly, I would UNWIRE what you did & make sure the rest of the wiring is OK and is NOT BLOWING FUSES...

If it blows fuses without the new taillight assembly connectd, then you need to track that down before added the new taillight assembly back on the circuits...



I don't know what the following statement means:
Quote:
Originally Posted by broknluck View Post
All lights work off bike only running light works.
Was that suppose to answer these questions? If so, I still don't understand, so be specific in answering these - I do not understand what does work and what does not work...

1) Did you test the taillight with the assembly OFF THE BIKE (using a battery)?
2) Did you test the Turn Signal lamps OFF THE BIKE (using a battery)?

3) Does the Taillight Light Up AS YOU HAVE IT WIRED?

4) Does the brake light work AS YOU HAVE IT WIRED? Does the bulb light up when you press either the front or the rear brake lever (or both)?

5) Do any of the turn signals light up AS YOU HAVE IT WIRED when you press the turn signal button? Do they turn off when you press the button again?


Quote:
Originally Posted by broknluck View Post
I may try a load resistor. I understand HD changed its back wiring after 1998 causing woe to others.
Don't worry about adding load resistors until the lights actually come on... The change in wiring, did not add any devices - it was simply a circuit board to allow disconnecting the rear lights individually to be replaced - The circuit board on most models is just extra connections --- On models without a taillight, the Run/Brake/Turn module provides those functions (not the taillight circuit board)...


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  #17  
Old 9th September 2019
broknluck broknluck is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
Obviously, you have at least TWO SHORTS for that to happen... If this only began when you added the new taillight assembly, I would UNWIRE what you did & make sure the rest of the wiring is OK and is NOT BLOWING FUSES...

If it blows fuses without the new taillight assembly connectd, then you need to track that down before added the new taillight assembly back on the circuits...



I don't know what the following statement means:


Was that suppose to answer these questions? If so, I still don't understand, so be specific in answering these - I do not understand what does work and what does not work...

1) Did you test the taillight with the assembly OFF THE BIKE (using a battery)?
2) Did you test the Turn Signal lamps OFF THE BIKE (using a battery)?

3) Does the Taillight Light Up AS YOU HAVE IT WIRED?

4) Does the brake light work AS YOU HAVE IT WIRED? Does the bulb light up when you press either the front or the rear brake lever (or both)?

5) Do any of the turn signals light up AS YOU HAVE IT WIRED when you press the turn signal button? Do they turn off when you press the button again?

1.yes 2.yes 3.no 4.no 5.no


Don't worry about adding load resistors until the lights actually come on... The change in wiring, did not add any devices - it was simply a circuit board to allow disconnecting the rear lights individually to be replaced - The circuit board on most models is just extra connections --- On models without a taillight, the Run/Brake/Turn module provides those functions (not the taillight circuit board)...


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  #18  
Old 9th September 2019
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So - I guess you're left with this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
Obviously, you have at least TWO SHORTS for that to happen... If this only began when you added the new taillight assembly, I would UNWIRE what you did & make sure the rest of the wiring is OK and is NOT BLOWING FUSES...

If it blows fuses without the new taillight assembly connectd, then you need to track that down before added the new taillight assembly back on the circuits...
Remove what you added - Then verify if the rest of the circuit works - If not, work your way back thru the system looking for shorts - Once it stops blowing fuses, then try implementing the lights again... But only hook up the Taillight & Brake Light (without the Turn Signals) - Test that functionality - If that works, then try adding the turn signals & test those...

You need to make small changes and verify that those changes work correctly before moving on to other changes - That way it will be less confusing to try to track down any problems...

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  #19  
Old 21st September 2019
broknluck broknluck is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
So - I guess you're left with this:


Remove what you added - Then verify if the rest of the circuit works - If not, work your way back thru the system looking for shorts - Once it stops blowing fuses, then try implementing the lights again... But only hook up the Taillight & Brake Light (without the Turn Signals) - Test that functionality - If that works, then try adding the turn signals & test those...

You need to make small changes and verify that those changes work correctly before moving on to other changes - That way it will be less confusing to try to track down any problems...//////////////////////////////////I found pinched wires to both start and kill switch on handle bars ,some with same color code from H.D..Start switch also seems bad.I moved key switch near battery bypassed kill switch fuse stop blowing .Im installing 30 amp marine reset fuses.Cutting out all factory wiring with new 4 wire system that works around the Nanny Safety wires.If this dont work Im getting a Honda ,Really Disgusted with H.D.ignorant design where a simple change cost a couple HDs and Hang Over headache.

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  #20  
Old 21st September 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by broknluck View Post
I moved key switch near battery bypassed kill switch fuse stop blowing .Im installing 30 amp marine reset fuses.Cutting out all factory wiring with new 4 wire system that works around the Nanny Safety wires.If this dont work Im getting a Honda ,Really Disgusted with H.D.ignorant design where a simple change cost a couple HDs and Hang Over headache.
I think the Sportster has one of the better wiring jobs. All sealed connectors, well protected with loom and secured well. It’s a simple system. Problems usually trace back to a previous hack job from modifications.

If you think Sportster wiring is difficult, then you should try working on a Honda, BMW or even worse, Moto Guzzi.

On second thought, maybe you shouldn’t...
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