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Sport-Glide / Sportster Motorcycle Touring This section is for the discussion of setting up you Sportster motorcycle touring and long distance riding.

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  #21  
Old 29th August 2018
Crusty Crusty is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: XLH 1000
Sportster/Buell Year: 1978
Sportster/Buell Model #2: XL1200 R
Sportster/Buell Year #2: 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Screw Loose Dan View Post
My nuts are multiple sizes...

That's probably why you've got a screw loose.
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  #22  
Old 29th August 2018
VaFish VaFish is offline
Chief Harley Engineer
 
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Location: Northern, VA
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Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200C
Sportster/Buell Year: 2006
Sportster/Buell Model #2: 883 Blue
Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1997
Other Motorcycle Model: A pile of Ninja 250's
Other Motorcycle Year: 1988
Reputation: 798673
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Screw Loose Dan View Post
The best tools to have go unused on your own bike and get used on someone else's!!

Have you posted up details about what happened to your bike? What did you end up buying?


.
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2070943
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  #23  
Old 29th August 2018
VaFish VaFish is offline
Chief Harley Engineer
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Northern, VA
Posts: 548
Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200C
Sportster/Buell Year: 2006
Sportster/Buell Model #2: 883 Blue
Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1997
Other Motorcycle Model: A pile of Ninja 250's
Other Motorcycle Year: 1988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crusty View Post
That's probably why you've got a screw loose.
I thought loose screws and Harley's were synonymous.
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  #24  
Old 29th August 2018
SonWon SonWon is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: Superlow 1200T
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Originally Posted by VaFish View Post
I thought loose screws and Harley's were synonymous.
Loctite, no problem.
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  #25  
Old 30th August 2018
Toejam503's Avatar
Toejam503 Toejam503 is offline
Air-Cooled Forever
 
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Sportster/Buell Model: XL 1200 C
Sportster/Buell Year: 2006
Sportster/Buell Model #2: (Prev.Own)XLH Milw.Spec.
Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1981
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Originally Posted by SonWon View Post
I didn't know that, my bike (36 mm) is a 2016. It is a big nut too, like the rider! Let the jokes begin.
Little hands, big nuts.
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  #26  
Old 30th August 2018
Dave L's Avatar
Dave L Dave L is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: XLH 1000
Sportster/Buell Year: 1985
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Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1985
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I am gonna throw together a small kit too. If you have one hopefully you wont need one!
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  #27  
Old 20th September 2018
farmall farmall is offline
Flat Track Racer
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 210
Sportster/Buell Model: XLH
Sportster/Buell Year: 73
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I like large Crescent style wrenches but don't like the length in a tool bag. I got the idea to bob the handle from a bro in the 1980s. It makes them much handier even at home. I welded the cut off end of a box wrench to fit my spark plugs to the bobbed end, so I have a bobbed double-duty wrench. When doing an axle I break torque with my boot so the length isn't an issue.

On long trips I pack two small G.I. tool bags. It's an old Shovelhead owner habit but you can never have too many tools. A folding hex key set lives in each riding jacket and I always wear a Leatherman 300. I've worn out/broken three so far (abuse of course) and love the warranty.

A small BRIGHT flashlight is handy, but a rechargeable LED headlamp is even better because it leaves your hands free. They are useful at camp sites when nature calls. I wear them at home for task lighting when wrenching or working on computers.

I carry several feet of stainless aircraft safety wire. It can hold and retain many things.

Best way to figure what you need is look at your motorcycle while making a list of tools for typical jobs. You can boil it down to an optimal kit easily.

A multibit screw driver with a 1/4" hex bit size can be used on typical worm drive hose clamps without the bit to turn the nut. Speaking of which, stock Oetiker crimped clamps aren't reusable. I convert to worm drive or preferably, the "fuel injection" style hose clamps. Both work fine.

10mm "ignition" wrenches are small and handy for battery bolts.

I pop the circlips off my brake and clutch lever pivot pins, mainly because I hate the things when I need to replace a cable or lever. I've never lost one in more than three decades of riding. One less tool to f with on the road is a bonus. I first did that when my throwout bearing got eaten by a heavy clutch spring (on an FXR) and I didn't have clip pliers in my bag.
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  #28  
Old 20th September 2018
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Graywolf Graywolf is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: XLH 1200
Sportster/Buell Year: 1998
Sportster/Buell Model #2: XL 883/1200 conversion
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I used to be sane, but I am better now.
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  #29  
Old 20th September 2018
farmall farmall is offline
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If you weld about a 4-inch long X 3/8" bar across the adjuster knob as a T-handle that gives you far more leverage over the visegrip than clamping by squeezing your hand. It's no contest, and more force means lower odds of slipping. If the bar is at a slight angle instead of a symmetrical "T" it's easier to spin the T-handle with your palm so don't worry about getting it straight.

I've done most of my standard visegrips and welding clamp versions and will do the rest as they wander near my welder. I also anti-seize the threads and run the screw fully in and out to coat them. Prevents weld spatter sticking and corrosion.
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  #30  
Old 20th September 2018
Graywolf's Avatar
Graywolf Graywolf is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: XLH 1200
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Sportster/Buell Year #2: 2001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farmall View Post
If you weld about a 4-inch long X 3/8" bar across the adjuster knob as a T-handle that gives you far more leverage over the visegrip than clamping by squeezing your hand. It's no contest, and more force means lower odds of slipping. If the bar is at a slight angle instead of a symmetrical "T" it's easier to spin the T-handle with your palm so don't worry about getting it straight.

I've done most of my standard visegrips and welding clamp versions and will do the rest as they wander near my welder. I also anti-seize the threads and run the screw fully in and out to coat them. Prevents weld spatter sticking and corrosion.
It is not for making them easier to use. The tabs are welded in there so they can be clamped on the shifter shaft when the threads strip out or the shaft gets rounded off so it won't hold no more. The old pot metal shifter arms were always breaking or stripping out. With the tabs on it you can use it either with the shift pedal in the tab or use it with linkage hooked to the tab. It will work on most any bike, not just Sportsters. They can also still be used as Visegrips for your tool kit.
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