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  #11  
Old 25th June 2018
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super duper +1
someone had their tom terrific hat on!
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  #12  
Old 27th June 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by class of 82 View Post
how long did the rod work out being?
Sorry for the delay getting back to you. Dimensions as below.

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  #13  
Old 2nd July 2018
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THANK YOU! Yoshi

that's super. local machine shop is fixing me up now.
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  #14  
Old 3rd July 2018
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do you get any lateral movement of the slave cylinder?

What is the bore size of a H/D clutch M/C?
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  #15  
Old 3rd July 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikethebike61 View Post
do you get any lateral movement of the slave cylinder?

What is the bore size of a H/D clutch M/C?
No lateral movement I can detect. I don’t know the dimensions of a Harley clutch m/c, I’m using a Honda 17mm one.
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  #16  
Old 4th July 2018
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11/16" for some HARLEYS...which is close enough for gov't work to 17mm
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  #17  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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I'm planning on doing this conversion on my project bike next year. I tried to buy the Frando 14mm slave cylinder that yoshi used but it is no longer in production. They do make a 12.7mm slave cylinder which looks to be the same externally. Frando tell me it needs to be used with a 14mm master cylinder rather than the 17mm one used with the bigger slave.
I asked Venhill racing about this and they tell me the 12.7 slave/14mm master combination should work fine.

This is the 12.7 slave that is still available:



That photo is slightly mislabelled - the slave with the shorter rod is the 11NBS & the one with a longer rod is the 11NBL. As a custom rod, as described above by yoshi, needs to be machined for use in an IH, it shouldn't matter which one you buy.
This is what Venhill (who sell these in the UK) told me when I asked their opinion about whether the smaller bore slave and master would work:



So it seems that even though the slave cylinder yoshi used is no longer available suitable alternative parts are. The caveat is it hasn't been tried yet. When I get around to fitting it some time next year I'll post an update.
Paul
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  #18  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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I'm pleased to see that there is an alternative to the 'billet' type hydro clutch actuator, and I do think that this looks the part, filling, as it does, the hole left by the redundant cable. Am I missing a point though? This method replaces the cable only, and still retains "the awful ramp and ball" arrangement, as somebody described it. What is the advantage of this method, mechanically speaking? I'm sold on the aesthetics, but that may not be enough for me to invest dolla in it.
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  #19  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pezed View Post
I'm pleased to see that there is an alternative to the 'billet' type hydro clutch actuator, and I do think that this looks the part, filling, as it does, the hole left by the redundant cable. Am I missing a point though? This method replaces the cable only, and still retains "the awful ramp and ball" arrangement, as somebody described it. What is the advantage of this method, mechanically speaking? I'm sold on the aesthetics, but that may not be enough for me to invest dolla in it.
Personally I don't think you're missing a point. I have never had a problem with the ball and ramp setup and think it works just fine. I don't see any ''need" for a hydraulic clutch, of any design, on an IH, the stock setup works just fine. Having to drain oil and remove a cover just to change a cable is dumb, but the cables break rarely. However me I love mixing the old with the new so the hydraulic setup appeals to me for that reason. No need for one but I want one, and plan to fit one, anyway.
Paul
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  #20  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Thanks for keeps this thread updated. One thing that concerns me it all the ironmongery hanging off that small thread where the cylinder threads into the cases. Could be an awfull lot of weight for that little bit of hollow aluminium.
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