Ironhead 81 sporty 4 speed install ?s

[class of 82]

so when you remove a trans/trapdoor by tapping the sprocket side can that shift the bearings in the door or move anything out of spec?

or the fact that the case were separated?

changing a sprocket should not change endplay or does it?

[trappnman]

no, changing the sprocket would have nothing to do with endplay.

Of its binding when tightening the trapdoor, its almost a sure bet (at least the first thing to suspect) that the countershaft endplay is off.

So if the tranny is spaced right- then getting the endplay to that .0009 or so will cure it. If you cannot at that point get endplay correct, then its gear spacing tower, or some such. PIA I know.

[needspeed]

Originally Posted by class of 82

so when you remove a trans/trapdoor by tapping the sprocket side can that shift the bearings in the door or move anything out of spec?

changing a sprocket should not change endplay or does it?

It's not likely to move it out of spec. though it can move.

The big clutch gear bearing is not an interference fit in the door, so it can move left and right between the 2 retaining rings. So if you tap the end of the mainshaft to remove the door the bearing and shafts can move to the left increasing the end play. This is a VERY small amount and shouldn't change the end play by enough to worry about.

When the clutch lever is pulled it will tend to move the bearing and shaft to the right reducing the end play. So if you're trying set the end play to the low side of the spec you should somehow have the bearing pushed to the right against the retaining ring when measuring.

Like almost everything on these bikes it's better to be a little on the loose side than too tight.

The sprocket shouldn't affect the end play.

[brucstoudt]

t-man,you mean .009 for the endplay correct?

[trappnman]

brucstoudt...yes, correct.

[class of 82]

figure I will keep this post updated. got the bike back from the shop.

charged for a shim pack, checked/shim as needed/ installed trans/ checked endplay/installed clutch basket/inner clutch hub/ new 23 tooth sprocket + labor

double checked endplay after everything torqued up/shifts through gears/spins nice and smooth by hand.

120$ fair enough.

now a couple ?s & opinions please.

1) no lock tab on inner clutch hub- this is a must, correct?

2) endplay/nothing moves if I remove inner hub nut and add the lock tab, retorque, correct?

main problem- it came with worn 21 tooth-should have a 21 tooth stock- 23 tooth hits cover- gearing way to high for Q-cams.

1) just remove and replace sprocket with correct 21 tooth and retorque, correct?

2) nothing on trans/endplay should change, correct?

figure i should ask & double check myself here and ask opinions before I move to installing clutch

am I understanding correctly that these 3 pieces(wear items) are made to be changed and can be R&R with out anything changing and I only need the torque wrench and lock tabs where needed?

primary sprocket/clutch basket/inner hub/main drive sprocket are made to be changed as needed and easily done following service manual correct?

hindsight I would not have R&R the trans if I knew I would be taking it to a shop to get it back in-I would already be at the goal line up and running instead of overbudget and behind schedule on the fire up & ride part.

[class of 82]

ok

I guess do it and see for myself. I can always take it to a shop and pay to fix it. like the other 2x I worked on it LOL!