No Start Symptoms - suggestions?

[Debute23]

Once my ignition went out and I had to replace the piece. I'm talking about where your key goes in, not where the relay under the cone is.

If you got spark you should be able to start the guy.

[IXL2Relax]

Originally Posted by canoli

I don't really like the spark I see when grounding the plugs. It isn't blue and bright. It's bright but more orange/yellow with just a hint of blue.

A weak spark can come from a bad ground.

When you're having issues with the electrical system, use this Sportsterpedia section about
checking the battery cables, voltages and grounds - DO THIS AS MAINTENACE, TOO:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...place_to_start

The battery ground wire should be on the Upper Right Rear Motor Mount. Be sure both ends of both battery cables are clean & tight - no corrosionor broken strands.

1993-Earlier - For these models, components were grounded to the frame at a nearby point. Power was distributed throughout the system on a minimal number of wires in the wiring harness. However, there are two harness-like ground wires that connect to the frame below the battery & brake hose clamp. They include grounds for the Starter Relay, Turn Signal Canceller, Ignition Module and Horn. Be sure these ground wires are clean & tight.

It can happen that the wire insulation is crimped into the end connector, but the wire inside is corroded or broken. So check the ends of all cables carefully to see if they are clean and solidly making contact.


IXL _______ >>>> My Motorcycle Chronicles Are Here <<<<
For Sportster Tech Info:
Ride On The Sportsterpedia - A Toll-Free XLForum Information Highway!

[canoli]

Thanks yep I followed the Sportsterpedia instructions and all the connections were clean and tight. I've been pretty good about maintaining electrical connections these days after learning the hard way too often that a connection that looks good may not be good at all.

I finally got her going the other day. The engine wouldn't start because the front exhaust valve adjustment was out. That's all it was. I noticed while I was checking spark that the bike nearly started with only the rear plug installed. That was a clue...so I checked the front valves and sure enough the exhaust was not right. How it happened I have no clue.

As for the spark maybe it's better than I think...it still doesn't look right - to me anyway - but the bike runs well, has normal power etc. I may eventually buy a name brand coil - I don't really trust this $30 eBay part. But for now I'm good to go!

Thanks again for the suggestions...I appreciate it!
-Rich

[IXL2Relax]

Good for you for paying attention.

This is why it's a good idea to do some basic diagnostic testing, because other symptoms can show up and give a clue to the soure of the problem. You may not be able to think-it-out to determine where exactly to look, but if you are paying attention when doing the basics (as you did), then more knowledge can be collected.

Glad you're running again.
Ride On .....

IXL _______ >>>> My Motorcycle Chronicles Are Here <<<<
For Sportster Tech Info:
Ride On The Sportsterpedia - A Toll-Free XLForum Information Highway!

[canoli]

....thanks - but apparently I needed one more lesson ... which is check your drive belt tension periodically ... or else...

I posted a new thread about it today as I needed some advice for a stuck sprocket cover - got a plan now, should be good to go. But ya, a 2-year old, fewer than 10K miles, $260 Gates belt ... gone in a flash ...

I think I've finally got it through my thick head: these old bikes need TLC.

[brucstoudt]

Originally Posted by canoli

The engine wouldn't start because the front exhaust valve adjustment was out. That's all it was. I noticed while I was checking spark that the bike nearly started with only the rear plug installed. That was a clue...so I checked the front valves and sure enough the exhaust was not right. How it happened I have no clue.

how did you deal with this? the valves have hydraulic lifters correct?

[denguy]

''Following World War II, Harley was on a roll. The Knucklehead's OHV motor, in either 61- or 74-inch guise, put the big twins well in front of the flathead Indians. And then the Milwaukee skunk-works came up with the hydraulically adjusted valves on the Panhead in 1948.''

[sportsterpaul]

Regarding your drivebelt issue. Some years back a couple guys decided to see just how loose you could run these belts, discovering you can run them waaaay loose. Too tight on the belt will create stress and also increase the load on bearings. Better loose than tight.

[canoli]

Originally Posted by sportsterpaul

Regarding your drivebelt issue. Some years back a couple guys decided to see just how loose you could run these belts, discovering you can run them waaaay loose. Too tight on the belt will create stress and also increase the load on bearings. Better loose than tight.

Ah ha! Very interesting... thank you for posting that. It does make sense now that I think about it. Too tight and it wouldn't take much (dirt, a small rock etc.) to knock it off the sprockets.

I adjusted the new belt to the FSM's instructions - 9/16-11/16 - but even 11/16 feels pretty tight to me. I think I'll give it a wee bit more slack.

Thanks again SP!

[canoli]

Originally Posted by brucstoudt

how did you deal with this? the valves have hydraulic lifters correct?

Yes I have Andrews adjustable pushrods and Fueling HP+ lifters. I saved the instructions for the lifters when I bought them so I followed them fairly easily (they're online too). Fueling need to be filled with oil before you adjust them so I confirmed the pushrods are 28 TPI (IIRC) and then adjusted the lifter to give .10 pre-load. It looked right and the bike started right up so I think the valves are happy now...!