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  #11  
Old 21st August 2022
Ark OB Ark OB is offline
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I got it last Fall from someone who got it as a basket that never had a HD before, and tried to put it together himself.
My son has the greenish Dot 5, he said got from ORileys, I opened my new bottle I got from ORileys and it's purple.
I couldn't tell with the water test, (old eyes, and need new glasses bad} but like your paint test, I just changed my oil bag for a hairline crack, so poured fluid from the ft on 1 end and from the rear on the other, waited over an hr, and tried to scratch off the paint, both ends still have firm solid paint.
Sucked all the fluid from the rear master then with paper towels got every spot/drop, then refilled with the new dot 5, and vacuum bleed, the old fluid was 1st purple then a short patch of orange then back to purple, good firm pedal. Saved the fluid I bleed out into clear cup and sat aside to inspect later. My main problem was some air sucking in past the threads of the bleeder, what kind of grease would be good to put on the threads to seal them?
Repeated on ft. that fluid was browner, and I found a blob in the bottom of that one looked like silicone was soft and hardened as it dried, and scraped a little of it off the sight glass.
Inspecting the removed fluid:
Rear separated to mostly new looking purple, with a small section on the bottom of orange with a some lose crud.
Front fluid from before it turned purple separated to the brownish with crud at the bottom and a distinct clear layer on top.
If I had to bet I'd guess the back was just neglected (PITA to get the cap off), and someone topped off the ft with dot 3 or 4, the clear layer would be 1 to 2 cap fulls.
I've had bikes without ft brakes, but they are nice when they work right.
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  #12  
Old 21st August 2022
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Sounds good.
Glad you got it sorted out.
I'd be mindful of the front for a while just in case.
Actually, I'd most likely pull the front caliper and inspect the innards if I was least bit concerned about mixtures.
But I may be a little cautious concerning brakes.
The front has the majority of stopping power too.
My old DOT5 fluids have been clear just looking at it from above sometimes and sort of yellowish when placed in glass.
Guess it all depends....
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  #13  
Old 21st August 2022
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Woops, forgot about the grease thing.
I don't use vac bleed on my bike.
But I used some axle grease on the Mercury to try and learn how to vac bleed.
Hated it actually. But the grease is not intended to be sucked into the system.
I used marine bearing grease.
Once I found that I was sucking it out of the threads, I turned to pipe dope.
It's thicker than grease but I don't believe any of it is compatible with DOT5.
Try using DOT5, if it don't work, experiment.
Technically you shouldn't pull enough vacuum to pull it into the system.
I just had a very long learning curve with a dang little pumper.
So I eventually just took it apart for pics of the innards and chunked it on the shelf.
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  #14  
Old 21st August 2022
ryder rick ryder rick is offline
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Vacuum should never be used on a brake system as it can introduce air bubbles in the fluid.

Always use pressure, not the lack of pressure, to move fluid.
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  #15  
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Well, this little MityVac seemed to be a popular way to bleed so I thought I'd see what the appeal was.
I didn't like it.
I was brought up without it and you know how you can get a "feel" for things you do a lot of.
But some folks seem to love it.


This way I get to see the air presence and how it moves along with what the fluid looks like.
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  #16  
Old 22nd August 2022
ryder rick ryder rick is offline
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Yes pressure bleeding can be messy and that is a death bell for nice paint.

So I hand bleed, problem is that's going to make as many bubbles as a vac. I've been known to use shop air to get things started. Bleed, let it set overnight, bleed again to finish.

Axually you don't have to do the second bleed if you instead pry on the brake pads to push some fluid back into the reservoir. Just remember to pump the pads back out.
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