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cams, pinion gear, push rod, xlh1200

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  #1  
Old 19th March 2023
surf&turf99 surf&turf99 is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: xlh1200s
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Hello im new to the forum. Ive been reading for a few days but cant seem to find an answer for my particular question, or at least some direction. i have a 1996 xlh1200s, that i got maybe 6 months ago and so far its been nothing but a polished turd. i love it but ive barely gotten to ride it since ive been fixing things here and there. I got the starter rebuilt and figured id replace the cam cover gasket while i was at it. In the process the #4 cam came out with the cover.That being said id like to avoid opening up the top end if i can so i decided to go with an adjustable push rod set up and potentially new cams. i was looking at the fueling 505/515's, andrews N4's, impact 560's, or the 570's.i just want to know witch ones are truly "bolt in" and witch require a pinion gear swap, and witch may be the best fit with the adjustable push rods. Also the cams that came out of my bike were the "D" cams. Thank you for any info this is my first bike and i just want to be able to ride the damn thing and have fun.
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  #2  
Old 19th March 2023
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FYI - The Sportster S section is for the new so-called-Sportster S... Not the older versions. And please try not to multi-post in the forum. Someone will usually reply to your posts relatively quickly in any of the sections.

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Last edited by IXL2Relax; 19th March 2023 at 22:43..
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  #3  
Old 19th March 2023
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The 560's and 570's are not compatible with stock 1996 XL1200 heads, so we can rule those out.

The N4's and 505/515's are really similar grinds. Biggest difference is the N4's have a lot more overlap at 56 degrees, as compared to 26 degree for the 505/515's. Overlap makes the exhaust more important; with a good exhaust, overlap will add power, with a poor exhaust it'll hurt you.

Intake close timing is similar between the two, at 46 degrees for the N4's and 48 degrees for the 505/515's. Intake close point is the main determinant of the rpm range of the cams.

Both of those intake close points are out there, though, for the stock 9:1 compression ratio, meaning they're going to hurt bottom end power especially. Ideally you'd like at least a 10:1 CR for a 46-48 degree IVC. Watch this video to learn more about matching IVC to CR: https://www.hammerperf.com/ttvideos....mpressionratio

Personally I'd probably go to N2's, just because the IVC is well matched to the stock 9:1 CR and I wouldn't want to lose the bottom end. But that's me. If you want a rush of power on top and you're not concerned about the bottom, then you're looking in the right place with the N4's and 505/515's.
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  #4  
Old 19th March 2023
kitabel kitabel is offline
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You're going to replace the cams to avoid timing the #4.
Really?
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  #5  
Old 20th March 2023
surf&turf99 surf&turf99 is offline
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Not necessarily, but i figured if its open now i might as well make some improvements if i can. like i said its my first bike and id like to upgrade parts as i go when i can.
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  #6  
Old 20th March 2023
kitabel kitabel is offline
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More cam timing adds power as follows:
1. higher RPM
2. WOT

I that's what you want, go for it.
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  #7  
Old 24th March 2023
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hummmm?????
adv timing will improve low end
retarded will shove the power band upwards
N4 with 4>5* retard
10:1 ratio
international secondary gearing
johnson engineering sportgear in the tranny
best of both worlds
will surprise rice on top end, no not take off.
colony collapse-able tubes
rivera adjustable rods
suggest going with a larger carb over the 40.
baby it, near 60mpg
grin factor 30 mpg
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  #8  
Old 24th March 2023
kitabel kitabel is offline
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adv timing will improve low end
retarded will shove the power band upwards
N4 with 4>5* retard

Explain?
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  #9  
Old 24th March 2023
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https://www.1250kits.com/ttcamgearmove.shtml

mr. hammer will explain

we were talking cams, right?!?
sure ign timing makes a diff, but not enough to put a polish on the turd he is complaining about.
hummmm
all-in-all mr. hammer can fix him up and get a known performer, not much more than a johnny cash build.
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  #10  
Old 24th March 2023
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That's what I thought: you have to separate the lobe from the gear.
Thanks.

There is another method on older engines: http://victorylibrary.com/tech/degree.htm
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