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Sportster Motorcycle Air intake, Carburetor, EFI, Fuel, and Exhaust Problems, advice and/or how tos for Sporster and Buell motorcycle carburators, Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI), Air Intake, Fuel and Exhaust.

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  #1  
Old 28th February 2021
gary59 gary59 is offline
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Default Cali Carb 1989 883

Took possession of a non running cali sportster 883.

Cleaning carb out and looking for an expert to tell me I am heading in the right direction.

Here's the details...

has a 45 slow jet
has a 170 main jet
straight pipe exhaust
kn air filter

I am 50 feet above sea level.

Got everything cleaned up and put back together and discovered I had a bad petcock...have one on order.

I ordered a needle from CV Performance thinking it might help the performance. Its CVP N65 Needle. Per my research HD has cali needle and I was worried I might have this needle in my carb..

So whats y'alls opinion about the carb rebuild so far?
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  #2  
Old 28th February 2021
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I see you created a new thread instead of adding to the existing one - It helps to keep a single thread going so others know what you were advised and what you did...


Here's the XLForum Sportsterpedia section on the CV40 Carb Tuning:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:evo:carb02

Lots of information there about what should be, what shouldn't be (DynoJet Parts) and what to do to tune the carb.

Understand the Idle-Drop-Method of setting the basic tune on the carb and pay attention to the Transfer Ports (which are fed by the Slow Jet).

Make sure you have no air leaks, because it is common to add extra fuel to the mix (incorrectly) to compensate for overlooked leaks.

Every bike has its own preference for carb settings, so be sure to go thru the checklists to verify fuel is properly supplied to the carb, the carb is clean and functioning, and there are no air leaks. If you set it up correctly, it will provide good service.

You can look here -vvvvv- to find the stock setup for Cali Carbs:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...ortster_models


Straight pipes negatively affect tuning the carb. You should consider baffles or lollipops to help that situation:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:ref:carb04


Another consideration for a 1989 bike, is that there a numerous grounding points because most devices ground to the frame thru their body/housing. Many electrical issue can be caused by loose ground connections, painted surfaces that do not allow a solid ground, or the battery cables being corroded inside with broken strands.

This Sportsterpedia sections discusses battery cables and grounds:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:evo:elec01

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Last edited by IXL2Relax; 28th February 2021 at 03:03..
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  #3  
Old 28th February 2021
gary59 gary59 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
I see you created a new thread instead of adding to the existing one - It helps to keep a single thread going so others know what you were advised and what you did...


Here's the XLForum Sportsterpedia section on the CV40 Carb Tuning:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:evo:carb02

Lots of information there about what should be, what shouldn't be (DynoJet Parts) and what to do to tune the carb.

Understand the Idle-Drop-Method of setting the basic tune on the carb and pay attention to the Transfer Ports (which are fed by the Slow Jet).

Make sure you have no air leaks, because it is common to add extra fuel to the mix (incorrectly) to compensate for overlooked leaks.

Every bike has its own preference for carb settings, so be sure to go thru the checklists to verify fuel is properly supplied to the carb, the carb is clean and functioning, and there are no air leaks. If you set it up correctly, it will provide good service.

You can look here -vvvvv- to find the stock setup for Cali Carbs:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...ortster_models


Straight pipes negatively affect tuning the carb. You should consider baffles or lollipops to help that situation:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:ref:carb04


Another consideration for a 1989 bike, is that there a numerous grounding points because most devices ground to the frame thru their body/housing. Many electrical issue can be caused by loose ground connections, painted surfaces that do not allow a solid ground, or the battery cables being corroded inside with broken strands.

This Sportsterpedia sections discusses battery cables and grounds:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:evo:elec01

IXL _______ >>>> My Motorcycle Chronicles Are Here <<<<
For Sportster Tech Info:
Ride The Sportsterpedia - A Toll-Free XLForum Information Highway!

My carb serial number starts with. 91TA and cannot find on your site.
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Old 28th February 2021
gary59 gary59 is offline
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Thanks IXL...Found the sticker and its 27495-96. I still believe the needles are different on the cal carburetor and I have a needle on order with CV performance.
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Old 28th February 2021
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1996-1997 Carb P/N 27495-96
So, it has the follow parts stock (which it may not have now):
170 --- Main Jet (27115-88)
42 ---- Slow Jet (27171-89)
NOKK - Needle (27241-95)

If it is a true Keihin needle, the version number is stamped on the needle body near the top.

Be sure to use the SP link above to check to see if the carb has been molested with DynoJet parts...


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  #6  
Old 28th February 2021
gary59 gary59 is offline
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So the number stamped on the needle should be NOKK if it has not been changed out?
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Old 28th February 2021
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Yes - NOKK on the needle... I would hold the N65C needle in reserve as a possible replacement, but not put it in there until you try properly tuning with the NOKK needle. This testing is in the mid-range of the throttle operation (relative to engine responsiveness), where the needle is the most affecting device in the carb. If the results of testing indicate a change is needed, then try the N65C needle.

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Last edited by IXL2Relax; 28th February 2021 at 22:01..
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