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  #41  
Old 1 Week Ago
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the problem seems to be heat related. That is why I would use a hair dryer to heat up individual parts in the system. And to add tot he heat problem, it runs good until turned off.

I want to ask, how long after you turn it off does the problem start, I mean if you turned it off for 2 seconds would it not start, or does it need to be turned off for say 3 minutes? (thinking maybe a vapor lock somewhere)
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  #42  
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The only thing that start spray does is creating even more backfires and fires out of the carburator.
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  #43  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jammantoo View Post
the problem seems to be heat related. That is why I would use a hair dryer to heat up individual parts in the system. And to add tot he heat problem, it runs good until turned off.

I want to ask, how long after you turn it off does the problem start, I mean if you turned it off for 2 seconds would it not start, or does it need to be turned off for say 3 minutes? (thinking maybe a vapor lock somewhere)

The first couple seconds after switch off it starts fine. After 10 seconds the problem occurs.

Often after fueling for example.
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  #44  
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Maybe this torn carburator rubber mount has something to do with it ?

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  #45  
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I think I am going to try a new battery plus a new carb rubber tomorrow.

Also re adjusted the mixture screw to 2.5 turns out (was 3 turns). No effect.
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  #46  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 883openpipes View Post
I think I am going to try a new battery plus a new carb rubber tomorrow.

Also re adjusted the mixture screw to 2.5 turns out (was 3 turns). No effect.
Set that mixture screw to factory standard.

let us go back to basics, if cold the bike runs just fine, once warmed up the bike does not want to start.

we look at what is happening, heat gets in the system, so now we look at how that can effect the bike.

things expand with heat, OK let us first eliminate fuel problems, are all the screw and bolts in the fuel system tight? to factory speck? are all the parts in the system within tolerance? Gaskets and rubber all in tolerance? So when hot if we squirt bit of fuel into the intake will it start?

or does it still not want to?

so we have eliminated the fuel part of the equation. now lets look at spark

we have good spark when cold, Do we have good spark when hot?

If we do then we need to look at what can be happening with the fuel delivery if we let it sit 20 seconds, if not we need to find what is causing the spark to fail if we turn it off?

If fuel lines are close to high heat items vapor lock is common, or if the carb has loose screws and we let it sit it can cause vacuum troubles. or maybe if connecting bolts are loose it causes loss of air movement where it is critical.

At this point we need to make sure everything is tight. then we can start eliminating common problems. we also need to make sure all gaskets and rubbers are in good shape.

Once we are sure the fuel system is OK, we then start in the PITA. the spark system. In order to do this you need to know how a high voltage spark is generated, do a goggle search for ignition explanation, so if you know that you can go step by step to electrically test each item once hot. Your sportster mechanics manual for that year will give you values to test for.

Online it is hard to trouble shoot as what we can see when beside the bike is not there. so we are going by experience, however if there a lot of the guys that are responding to you might spot something. So it is up to you to check each item in the system methodically from start to finish.

A shop manual and a multimeter is your best friend right now.
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  #47  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 883openpipes View Post
The only thing that start spray does is creating even more backfires and fires out of the carburator.
I don't use ether. It is warm enough here where none is needed.

Ether is not gasoline. jammantoo brings up good points as well as that torn intake rubber you found.

Torn rubber intake seals make a starting routine go like crapola.

Too much air sucked in cause a acetylene effect. I've seen hand files used on a blanket on the side of the road to hand mill a melted tunnel on a aluminum head from a leaky head gasket. The blanket was the work bench, The lap of the dude was the mill fixture. The file was used in circular motion on the head mating surface. Sturgis run in the 90's.

Leaky intake rubbers won't do that though.
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  #48  
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I used a heat gun to heat up the ignition module to a temperature I couldnt touch it but started fine with the cold engine.

I skipped the battery change (200€ !!)

I have a new float and I saw the slow jet was dirty so Ill clean that as well.
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So I replaced the inlet seal and the main jet to 170 and cleaned up the slow jet. First impressions are positive.. Took it out for a 25km drive and stopped a couple of times for a few minutes and it started right back up.

However I am not impressed as the first test ride after the new coil was also positve. So I keep you updated.
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