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  #7201  
Old 17 Hours Ago
Nibelungen's Avatar
Nibelungen Nibelungen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boomerguy View Post
When I bought my bike with less than 10K miles on it, the fork fluid was solid black, had the viscosity of water and stunk horribly. The ride improved very much.
The next change with the same Type E spec, showed gray thicker liquid and no bad odor. It's getting better!
These are my new fork caps and I no longer need to remove the springs to change the fluid:
https://www.jpcycles.com/product/230...tube-top-plugs
very smart...
where is the drain plug on your model... on the bottom or there is the little screw on the right side...?
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  #7202  
Old 17 Hours Ago
boomerguy boomerguy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nibelungen View Post
very smart...
where is the drain plug on your model... on the bottom or there is the little screw on the right side...?
My drain screw with a tiny brass washer is at the bottom of the fork, on the side. I open the top to let air in before I drain it and then hold a cup directly in the path of flow because it shoots out in an arc. Each side holds about 10 ounces.
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  #7203  
Old 16 Hours Ago
npaisnel npaisnel is offline
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Stuck a 'new' 883 2005 motor in my dead 1275 04 Sporty.
Apart from the VSS sensor being different it all went in .
Ran it up with stock 883 jets and needle in a Dyna CV40 carb. I got the jetting wrong I stuck a 40 slow jet in ..should be a 42 I think from reading the SP.

With all this success I decided to try a Crankcase pressure test with a water manometer ...just connected to the cam chest breather .

Sucked water in to the cam chest! ….but not to worry...I was running a total loss lubrication system.


I do not have a complete oil tank yet..so jury rigged an knackered tank to supply oil...with scavenge pump oil squirting out in to a tray on the floor...Total ,loss lubrication...so water came out within a minute or two.

Oil supply was a 45 gallon drum of 15W40... so as I got low I pumped another shoit in to the oil tank.

Unknown engine so wanted a complete oil flush.. Put about 2 gallon through it :0 that is an oil change! Single use oil !
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  #7204  
Old 10 Hours Ago
Nibelungen's Avatar
Nibelungen Nibelungen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boomerguy View Post
My drain screw with a tiny brass washer is at the bottom of the fork, on the side. I open the top to let air in before I drain it and then hold a cup directly in the path of flow because it shoots out in an arc. Each side holds about 10 ounces.
mine has not... to drain the oil from the forks you have to remove the screw on the bottom of the sliders... but first you have to remove the front wheel...

another option... if you want only to change the oil without changing the fork seals... is to remove the oil with a vacuum

some overhere think changing oil forks without changing either the seals... is only half job done...

https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...ORK%20ASSEMBLY

Last edited by Nibelungen; 10 Hours Ago at 01:58..
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  #7205  
Old 9 Hours Ago
boomerguy boomerguy is offline
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It seems to me that changing the fork lube frequently would extend the life of the seals. The owner's manual says to change the fluid @ 30K mile intervals and I can tell you from experience that time is also involved. My original factory oil was at least 13 years old with only 9K miles on it and the factory oil was just black, stinky water as far as I'm concerned. At 10K mile intervals, I figure I'll be changing mine every year on average.
I would really hate dealing with the fork springs again. I did it once with the help of some very big and muscular people. When my fork seals need replaced, I'm paying a professional to do it.
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  #7206  
Old 9 Hours Ago
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Another option would be to install new fork tube caps with access bolts in the centers. Don't have to deal with the springs that way.
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  #7207  
Old 9 Hours Ago
boomerguy boomerguy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterpaul View Post
Another option would be to install new fork tube caps with access bolts in the centers. Don't have to deal with the springs that way.
Like these:
https://www.jpcycles.com/product/230...tube-top-plugs
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  #7208  
Old 8 Hours Ago
84rzv500r 84rzv500r is offline
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went for a ride to breakfast ,filled up the tank... went to napa picked up 4 new plugs and put a fresh set in then rode in the rain to give it a bath....
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  #7209  
Old 4 Hours Ago
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Nibelungen Nibelungen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterpaul View Post
Another option would be to install new fork tube caps with access bolts in the centers. Don't have to deal with the springs that way.
if mine would have that little drain screw on the side of each sliders... sure i will purchase them soon... as Boomer already did...

i don't understand why they removed them on later models

also having a cartridge on the left tube make it more difficult removing the old oil with a vacuum... you are forced to remove the front wheel... and the left leg... and to drain keeping the tube upsidedown... or by the screw on the bottom end of the left slider... (the screw that join the inner oil lock to the cartrige according from the microfiches)...

to wrap it up many things could go wrong... at least for my skill... better to pay a prof... maybe the next tyre changing i will service also the fork seal / oil

yet i am happy to have that cartrige on my fork... a big improvement compared to the models before...

Last edited by Nibelungen; 3 Hours Ago at 09:21..
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