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  #11  
Old 12th April 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mission1 View Post
Ok so this statement you made here, "They are powered off the same single wire as the coil"
The handle bar ground bolt you pictured is the same as mine and screwed in the middle there. So ground to frame or where on tree?!
Started going off on load but stopped short.
Forget that. Just follow the diagram and you'll be fine.
(AKA meant to backspace some of that but didn't )


The handle bar ground is factory grounded to the upper tree.
That puts return path thru the neck bearings as mentioned in the link I gave.
That is how the factory did it.
So you can do that or try and find a way to hit the frame instead.
Either will work.
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Last edited by Hippysmack; 12th April 2020 at 18:24..
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  #12  
Old 13th April 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippysmack View Post
The three small blocks are just wiring connectors.
Following the diagram, the turns and tail light are on the same breaker.
The turns are just switched from the handlebar.
They are powered off the same single wire as the coil.
The stoplight portion of the tail is on a separate breaker though.
So the single white wire from the ignition switch heats up both the ignition and accessory breakers.

There is nothing to overload following the diagram.
Unless of course you have shorts.

Are you asking about wiring around the missing 6 pin connector?
Bypassing the 6 pin connectors simply twists these wire combinations together at the rear:
Right turn wire and brown wire to front terminal.
Left turn wire and violet wire to front terminal.
Tail light red wire and stoplight switch red wire and red wire from front terminal.
Tail light green and blue wire going to the lighting breaker.

No need for the 6 pin connector that way.

edit:
On the handlebar ground, I believe it should run the upper tree.
See the ground bolt in the middle of this one from bustert.


But I believe best practice we decided it best to run it to the frame.
See this thread starting here.
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread...2075622&page=3

As for the connections, I just used the word twisted as a means of which would go together.
I would twist, solder and shrink wrap the connections if I were doing it.
After I solder the connection, I'll add a little dialectic grease before shrink wrapping.
Helps keep the moisture on the connection down.
Ok all wiring accounted for accept one black wire on the right handle bar. the diagram doesn't show a black wire but the left side does for the horn and that doesn't have the black wire. Should I use it for the horn?!
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  #13  
Old 13th April 2020
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What black wire?
I don't see no stinkin black wire.
Least not from here.

There is only one black wire coming off the (factory) switches and it's on (edit Left side. ).

Maybe yours are different.
But you can hook up a multimeter to that black wire, press the horn switch and see if you have juice.
Or if the battery isn't hooked up, see if you have resistance.
Let go of the switch to verify power / resistance goes out.
Then hook up the horn.

Last edited by Hippysmack; 13th April 2020 at 08:40..
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  #14  
Old 13th April 2020
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Any thoughts on adding a fourth (30 amp) breaker in place of the fuse wire on the drawing?
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