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Sportster Motorcycle Engine Conversions Advice, questions, and tips for 1200, 1250, 1340, 1450 etc... for Sportster and Buell motorcycle engine conversions

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  #91  
Old 24th November 2019
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Highly-Dangerous Highly-Dangerous is offline
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I'm moving to Diego Garcia !
Lovely.... wont you get bored of riding back & forward the same road over and over though?

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  #92  
Old 24th November 2019
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Desertfox Desertfox is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Highly-Dangerous View Post
I've had a quick look, unsuccessfully, trying to find a thread about "Pros & Cons" for each one of these kits... Is there a thread talking about it? if so, can someone point me the link, please?

If there are no threads about it, could you guys give your opinions? I need help to make up my mind on which way to go.

I am after a Conversion Kit (for a 883) without going over the top... I´d like to keep the 883 heads (at the moment) and just change Pistons & Cylinders, plus maybe Cams? then I am guessing I will also need Ignition, Clutch... What else???

Is there a lot of difference between these three kits?

My 883 is an 2006 Carburated.

Thanks in advance guys.

IMHO before you even start there are some fundamental questions you have to ask yourself:
1. What exactly am I looking for in performance? Low end power or high end top speed? Some combination?
2. Is this a track build or a street build? Depending on the answer your approach to performance parameters will be different. If you are building a track racer you can pretty much do what you want. Racing engines are typically rebuilt after every race, if you have the resources for that you can pretty much do what you want. If it is a street build you have to take operational and maintenance costs into consideration.
3: How long do you plan on keeping the bike? Ahh yes. The candle that burns twice as bright only burns half as long. If you are just planning to keep it a couple years and unload it , that's one thing. If you plan on keeping and riding for a while ( I have been riding my Sportie for 16 years) you definitely need to keep the mods street friendly. Overpowered Sportsters are maintenance nightmares. So unless you have a military maintenance budget I would advise against it. I would especially stay away from the 88 inch kits for the sportie. It will shred your bottom end and drive train in short order.
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  #93  
Old 24th November 2019
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Highly-Dangerous Highly-Dangerous is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desertfox View Post
IMHO before you even start there are some fundamental questions you have to ask yourself:
1. What exactly am I looking for in performance? Low end power or high end top speed? Some combination?
2. Is this a track build or a street build? Depending on the answer your approach to performance parameters will be different. If you are building a track racer you can pretty much do what you want. Racing engines are typically rebuilt after every race, if you have the resources for that you can pretty much do what you want. If it is a street build you have to take operational and maintenance costs into consideration.
3: How long do you plan on keeping the bike? Ahh yes. The candle that burns twice as bright only burns half as long. If you are just planning to keep it a couple years and unload it , that's one thing. If you plan on keeping and riding for a while ( I have been riding my Sportie for 16 years) you definitely need to keep the mods street friendly. Overpowered Sportsters are maintenance nightmares. So unless you have a military maintenance budget I would advise against it. I would especially stay away from the 88 inch kits for the sportie. It will shred your bottom end and drive train in short order.
See Post #81

But, yes... it will be a keeper.

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  #94  
Old 7th December 2019
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Lukidj Lukidj is offline
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Originally Posted by Highly-Dangerous View Post
Well.... I've pulled the trigger and I've bought a nice Xmas present for my lovely Highly-Dangerous, "little", one.....

1275 Hammer Kit is on its way!!!!!!

Alex (from Hammer) and myself have been video-conferencing and, what can I say... What a great guy to deal with.. Awesome! two thumbs Up!!!!

I will start a Thread about the conversion once I start getting right into it.

Do break-in very accurately, I had moderate scratched pistons at 1275 despite all breakin recommendations. And some funny issue with oil leak.
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  #95  
Old 9th December 2019
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Do break-in very accurately, I had moderate scratched pistons at 1275 despite all breakin recommendations. And some funny issue with oil leak.
Did you find out the reasons for these issues you had? Is there anything in concrete to be aware of?

Thanks.
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  #96  
Old 10th December 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukidj View Post
Do break-in very accurately, I had moderate scratched pistons at 1275 despite all breakin recommendations. And some funny issue with oil leak.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Highly-Dangerous View Post
Did you find out the reasons for these issues you had? Is there anything in concrete to be aware of?

Thanks.
So... I am guessing you are the exception to the rule? I´ve not heard of anyone else having those problems.... at least I have not found it in here.

Anyone has something to say about this?
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  #97  
Old 10th December 2019
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Clean the surface you'll work on or deposit your parts, nothing more than a grain of sand or metal can leave a gap for oil to escape. Clean is the secret of good mechanic; that why they have dirty hand, they keep cleaning everything before removing it or installing it.
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  #98  
Old 10th December 2019
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Originally Posted by Highly-Dangerous View Post
So... I am guessing you are the exception to the rule? I´ve not heard of anyone else having those problems.... at least I have not found it in here.

Anyone has something to say about this?
Nope. Not really. Funny issue with oil leak? Sounds like an installation issue. Scratched piston most likely too. I can tell you while I followed break in procedures, I sure didn't baby it either. I did make sure I had clean oil and took care not let any dirt, etc. fall in the crankcase.
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  #99  
Old 10th December 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rejeanprimeau View Post
Clean the surface you'll work on or deposit your parts, nothing more than a grain of sand or metal can leave a gap for oil to escape. Clean is the secret of good mechanic; that why they have dirty hand, they keep cleaning everything before removing it or installing it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 60Gunner View Post
Nope. Not really. Funny issue with oil leak? Sounds like an installation issue. Scratched piston most likely too. I can tell you while I followed break in procedures, I sure didn't baby it either. I did make sure I had clean oil and took care not let any dirt, etc. fall in the crankcase.
Yes, I hear you both.... "Elementary Dear Watson!!!"...

I know it is paramount to install it SPOTLESS.... as in any mechanical/electronic device....

I was just wondering why @Lukidj had those problems...

We learn from our own (and from others) mistakes.

All Info is good Info!!! (most times)


Last edited by Highly-Dangerous; 10th December 2019 at 20:12.. Reason: spelling
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