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  #1  
Old 22nd January 2015
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Sparky69 Sparky69 is offline
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Default Ign Switch relocation

'95 xl 1200, moving switches for ignition and kill. Have seen a post on here about voltage ratings and cant find it now. What rating do I need for a momentary switch? Have 2 n.o. switches laying around here that are good for:
3A @125 vac
1.5A @ 250 ac
and
1A @ 250 vac

What will these hold on a 12v vdc system? I'm a gas/metal guy, not an electrician. any guidance would be appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 22nd January 2015
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AnaChris AnaChris is offline
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an amp is an amp is an amp....however AC current actually goes to 0 60 times a second where as DC current is constant. for this reason any given contact when breaking will arc easier with a DC current than the AC that sort of puts itself out as the current alternates. There is no real conversion formula that I am aware of but you ought to be good by increasing 20%-30% over what you think you need.

so say you want to run 10 amps DC better look for a switch with an AC rating of 12-13 or higher
Good luck
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  #3  
Old 22nd January 2015
erin313 erin313 is offline
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Are you talking about start & kill, or ignition (key) & kill? If you're moving the kill switch off the bars, why bother putting it elsewhere? Just splice the two wires together and use the key. If you're moving the start switch, you can use the smallest momentary switch you like, as the starter relay coil is rated in milliamps. Or, ditch it altogether and install a manual push button housing directly on the starter solenoid for the cleanest look and ultimate reliability.
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  #4  
Old 22nd January 2015
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Default

Moving the start button and kill switch off the bars. Going for clean bars.
Like the idea of putting the swith directly on the solenoid. Not much of an electrical guy here but could fab something up. I appreciate the info.
Anybody have an idea what the start button draws in amps? Just so I can size the switch accordingly.
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  #5  
Old 23rd January 2015
erin313 erin313 is offline
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The manual start button replaces the end cap on your starter solenoid- 3 screws, 5 minutes tops. Google "manual solenoid start button sportster"-JP has them as well as ebay, chrome or black.
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  #6  
Old 23rd January 2015
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Default

mmmm i have seen the end cap button. I personally don't want to stick my hand down there when she's hot...of course pipes do vary. I have moved my key and coil from the stock locations to behind the engine and between cylinders. You could hide a switch in one of these locations. I have thought of that before as I hate keys and am actually about to loose my second HD ignition switch to being a POS. A unique and hidden button would be cool. just a thought. keep us posted. would lover to see the clean look when it is all done.

chris
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  #7  
Old 23rd January 2015
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Default

Have pretty firm idea of where I am locating the start switch, just looking for the amperage draw that it endures. Under gas tank left side closer to seat
- invisible - security feature. Key will be done as a lot of people do with a cap morphed onto the key to hide that as well.
Just put 12" apes on it with internal wiring yesterday and am about to start powdercoating on the risers, tree and lower forks.
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  #8  
Old 23rd January 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnaChris View Post
mmmm i have seen the end cap button. I personally don't want to stick my hand down there when she's hot...of course pipes do vary. I have moved my key and coil from the stock locations to behind the engine and between cylinders. You could hide a switch in one of these locations. I have thought of that before as I hate keys and am actually about to loose my second HD ignition switch to being a POS. A unique and hidden button would be cool. just a thought. keep us posted. would lover to see the clean look when it is all done.



chris

I have this on mine and you don't burn your hand




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