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  #21  
Old 27th July 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deimus View Post
Since you ask, the round SE air cleaner I got a couple of years ago was the old style. This kit came with chrome Z braces bent to the length to fit straight from the heads to the carb without a horse shoe breather and they used 5/16" chrome bolts. At the time, I also got the horse shoe breather pipe that came with the shorter Z braces and the 1/2" banjo bolts. The first time I blocked off the head vents, I just used solid 1/2" bolts with a 1/2" nut filling the gap where the breather was and a gasket along with the shorter Z braces. To further clean up the carb area, I got two 1/2"-13 to 5/16"-18 thread reducers so I could use the old style Z braces. I installed the thread reducers using a coating of liquid gasket to seal the threads. I also coated the threads on the 5/16" bolts with the liquid gasket to seal those threads. The chrome hardware looks better than the 1/2" bolts for sure. The area around my carb looks really clean now and there aren't any leaks.
ACE HArdware had 1/2 X 13 chrome plated bolts that are 3/4" long. I just used those thru the carb bracket and took off the horseshoe breather tube.

Matt
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  #22  
Old 27th July 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacksmith_wills View Post
83XlX,

Does the vent you installed in the cam cover have a filter or check valve in it?

Thanks,

Matt
No, it's just run under the engine about halfway to the swingarm, and cable-tied to the frame. I really think the engine produces a little extra HP when the crankcase vents easier. I don't think there's any danger of sucking dirt through a hose that long, although I'd like to hear the advantages of installing a PVC valve in it. Remember, though, that I left the hose to the air cleaner in place, too, so it's venting in two places.
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  #23  
Old 27th July 2007
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Deimus,

To answer your previous question, I'm drilling my cam cover and installing a check valve.

I was waiting to make sure I had a cam cover gasket on hand just in case.

Thanks,

Matt
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  #24  
Old 29th July 2007
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Deimus,

I've got to hand it to you on this one! You've worked a long time on this and I'm going to file it in the back of my mind in case or when my umbrella valves go. Thanks!

Dan
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  #25  
Old 29th July 2007
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Nice write up, might want to change the title to "Cam Chest Vent" though.

Hope it works for you, Chris
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  #26  
Old 29th July 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjburr View Post
Nice write up, might want to change the title to "Cam Chest Vent" though.

Hope it works for you, Chris
The reason for the title is that the area of the engine being vented is actually the crankcase.
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  #27  
Old 29th July 2007
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Deimus -

Is this vent setup done INSTEAD of the Krankvent installation in the oil vent line, or in addition to it?

I got my Krankvent with the intention of putting it in the vent line but haven't gotten to it yet. Right now my 90" is having a few bigger "issues"
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  #28  
Old 29th July 2007
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Deimus.

Here are a couple quotes from previous posts and from the other HUGE thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Deimus View Post
There are a couple of threads about issues with oil consumption and crankcase breathing that contain the historical discussions that led up to this modification.


10) While I know this last step is “optional”, I recommend that you block off the breathers in the heads. To do this, replace the banjo bolts with the solid 1/2” bolt. With the crankcase breather you just installed you no longer need the head breathers. And since your umbrella valves are prone to failure, it is best just to have the head breather ports blocked off. As an added benefit, any gasses that might need to be vented from the rocker boxes will assist oil drainage as it travels down into the crankcase and out the new vent.
You are right, if there is pressure here it will help. What if there isn't pressure? Only vacuum? In that case allowing the head to breathe in will help the flow.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Deimus View Post
Smackie,
I don't think we want to be introducing air into the crankcase. The ideal running environment would be a matching vacuum in the rocker box and in the crankcase. Introducing air into the crankcase will create a pressure that must be vented to the outside at some point. And since there is atomized oil in that air, this will also be pumped out. This is why I put a PCV valve on my cam chest vent. So that the air in the crankcase has a place to go without new air being sucked in. And as the engine runs, whatever gasses escape past the valves into the head area will vent from the rocker box and whatever gasses escape past the rings into the crankcase can vent through the cam chest vent.

I can't wait to see how my bike does on a long ride.

I think it was CJ who ran a test by pouring oil into the rocker boxes. At atmospheric pressures, he stated that the oil had no problems draining. If we are able to equalize the pressures the same way while the engine is running, drainage should be adequate.

Consider this, during part of the cycle, there should be a partial vacuum in the cam box. If the rocker boxes are at the same pressure as the cam box we are not assisting the oil down the push rod tubes. We are not impeding it either. If we vent the rocker boxes to atmosphere without a check valve then the rocker boxes are at a higher pressure than the cam box and that will help oil flow.

We might want to consider a filter on the hose running from the head breathers. If the hose is long enough, maybe no filter. Maybe.

Or if possible, leave the filter in and remove the valve. Haven't looked at the valves, maybe someone else can tell me if that is possible. There is ia filter in there right?

The reason I say this is that I seem to get about 10 degree higher temps with both breathers blocked off. It may be that my head breathers are already two way because they have failed. Haven't checked them.

I haven't tried completely removing the head breathers yet.

Regards,

Matt
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  #29  
Old 29th July 2007
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Matt,
I believe Cootertwo is going to be setting his bike up with the head breathers configured with a one way valve in the "IN" position. He will have a vent down below configured in the "OUT" position. So we should be able to see the outcome of two concerns from this setup. The first will be to find out if the vented air carries too much oil with it since he should be continually venting air. The second will be to find out if the introduced air builds up too much pressure inside the crankcase during any hard runs he makes. Hopefully he will find that he doesn't lose any noticeable power at the top end and that the increased pressure doesn't cause any leaks from any gaskets or seals.

Cootertwo,
Please correct anything here I may have relayed incorrectly.
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  #30  
Old 30th July 2007
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I just got in from installing the "Deimus Vent".

Things went pretty well. I made my splash guard a bit different. Same idea though.

Will know more as I get to ride some miles.

I'm using a modified commercial check valve. Like Deimus I noticed some watery drips, most likely a mixture of water vapor and oil. Expected that though.

I still have my head breathers blocked. I want to collect more heat data. I still have not decided which oil temp gauge to buy. Could use some more suggestions there. Right now I'm going to compare the tank thermometer to an IR reading at the base of the oil filter for lack of a better alternative.

Cooter,

How are the dual vents doing?

REgards,

Matt
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