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  #31  
Old 8th June 2006
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1 MILLION ft lbs! Wow

Ummm....

The socket will not fit into the bottom of the fork leg. You need a long allen key (which is the really hard way to do it) or a special 6mm long allen socket. I have one from Snap-On like this:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....store&tool=all

You're right, with the caps off and springs out, the damper tube will spin when you try to remove the bolt from the bottom. You can do it with a 3/8" air impact without reinstalling the springs, but if you have no compressor, you're better off installing the springs, which will put enough pressure downward to hold the damper tube from spinning (usually.)

The quickest way and easiest is the 3/8" air impact. Maybe there's a shop nearby that could zip the bolts off for you?

I still can't find the tool I am remembering that you can insert from the top and hold the damper tube. Race Tech's website is down for the tool page. I think they had one.

HTH

--Chris
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  #32  
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I must take too long to write my posts - xena beat me to it

Air tools would be the preferred method. xena, you got lucky with yours coming out.

Be careful too not to strip the head of that bolt. You'll be drilling the head off it if that happens. Not fun.

--Chris
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  #33  
Old 8th June 2006
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Well, my tubes are in my garage, and my compressor is at a place I'm doing some wood working. I guess I'll try, in this order:

1> to use one of the wrenches I bought today, without putting the springs back in

2> To use one of the wrenches I bought today, after putting the springs in

3> To take the tubes down to where I'm working, and try using the impact wrench - but I'll still need a long reach hex drive socket, won't I?

John
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  #34  
Old 8th June 2006
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I think #3 is going to be most successful, not that you shouldn't try the others.

Yes, you will need that long 6mm allen socket. You can also take an allen key, cut off the bent part so you have just straight, then jam that into a 6 point, 6mm, 3/8" drive socket, to make your own "special tool." That would be fine.

Just be careful not to strip the head of the bolt. I mean, don't use the cut end of the allen in the head of the bolt - it WILL slip out.

Good luck!

--Chris
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  #35  
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All right I'll try 1 (if it works everything's golden and I save a trip) then 3, because I dont want to have to wrestle with the fork caps more than once if I don't have to.

Thanks Chris and Xena et al for your help.

John
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  #36  
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Yeah, the fork caps are a PITA to reinstall.

--Chris
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrishajer
Air tools would be the preferred method. xena, you got lucky with yours coming out.
No luck involved chris, again, I followed the directions
which iirc, told me to keep the springs in the fork tubes in
order to keep pressure on the damper tube.

John, yes, even using air you'll need the long socket in
order to get it in there...good luck and I'm sure once you
finish it up you'll agree with me that it's not that bad a
job and you are going to LOVE the difference.
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  #38  
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xena: the Harley gods were smiling on you when you did that job.

In the shop, using air, with the proper allen, springs still installed, cap on, they are a BITCH to get out on some bikes with a 3/8" OR 1/2" impact sometimes. I have to say there's luck involved. Maybe it has something to do with the age of the bike when you go to do the work. Yours would have been pretty new. I'm glad it went smoothly for you.

--Chris
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  #39  
Old 16th January 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrishajer View Post
Here's an annotated version of the same pic. Pic is from Race Tech, notes are from me.



You are going to add the Progressive top out spring (the little one) right between the top damper tube, and the bottom of fork tube, right where the top out spring is now.

--Chris
Thanks Chris this cleared up a few questions I had too.
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