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  #21  
Old 6th June 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrishajer
See, there's your first AND second mistakes:

reading AND following the instructions! Guys don't do that

--Chris
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  #22  
Old 6th June 2006
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  #23  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BusyDizzyIzzy
None of the 04' and up Sportsters have the small 4 coil spring as far as I know, they only have the main fork tube spring.
Mine is an 04 and has a 2 inch spring on the damper tube. You can see
it, along with the kit spring in the photos I posted to this thread.
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  #24  
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I'm going to give it a shot, the first chance I get (that I don't go riding first). Might be tomorrow based on the forecast. Thanks for all of the help.
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if you did a 2" drop with the kit do you need to trim the PVC spacer at all or did you leave it the length that it was. I ended up getting Screaming Eagle fork oil and took notice that there is only like 14 or 15 oz. in the bottle. How many containers of oil do you really need. I thought I remember reading you need 8oz in each side. so do I need to get another container for 1 or 2 more oz.
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  #26  
Old 6th June 2006
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With a 2" drop, you would likely need to trim the PVC spacer. I posted about this on setting the front fork preload a couple weeks ago:

http://www.xlforum.net/vbportal/foru...44&postcount=6

I would get another bottle of fluid just to be safe. But the SE bottles are 16 oz IIRC, so if your manual calls for 8 oz, and you're using 8 oz per side, you'll be OK. You can't rely on the sight glass (clear plastic) on the side of the bottle for an accurate measurement. Maybe that's why it looks like 14 or 15 oz?

--Chris
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Old 7th June 2006
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You'll need to trim them for a 2" drop. Shoot for having 1/2" of the spacer extending out of the fork tube with the caps off and the bike on a lift.
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cleger: you were right, of course, about the damper tubes being steel. I just checked and they are indeed steel and magnetic. I don't know what the hll I was thinking.



I also measured the ID of the damper tube, and for various models, it's APPROXIMATELY .575". Hard to measure since it's recessed.

There is also a larger diameter portion near the top, but that size seems to vary between different bikes. I measured some at .965" and some around .875" - so, I would not rely on sticking a dowel into that upper portion. There used to be a tool that was long enough to stick down into the fork which had a tapered end and would go inside that .575" inside diameter portion. I can't find it now. Instead of all that, as xena recommended, just remove the forks from the trees and tip them over to dump the damper out.


I also measured an XL fork cap thread, and it's 13/16". So, to achieve your preload, you would add that 13/16" to the length of whatever is sticking out of the fork tube when the fork is fully extended. It it's the spring or PVC spacer (and the washer), and it sticks out 1/2", then 13/16" + 1/2" = 1-5/16" : your total preload. Check the instuctions for your spring kit to see what is recommended for preload. More preload will make the fork stiffer, less will mushier.

HTH

--Chris
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  #29  
Old 8th June 2006
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Chris,

Thanks for all the info - I took the fork tubes out of the triple trees, which I was not going to do, but I did because I could not get the 6mm hex bolts out of the bottom of the tubes (while mounted) due to the fact that they were extremely tight (prob 1,000,000 ft lbs of torque!!). I purchased a hex key handle, and a hex 6mm socket (3/8 " drive - don't know if it will fit in the hole at the bottom of the tube) which I will try using tonight to undo the 6mm bolts. Of course, now that I have the springs and what not, out, the damper tube will probably spin when I try turning the bolt. The instructions said this might happen, but honestly, I couldn't get the hex bolt to budge, springs in, or springs out. If there are any other tips on this I'm all ears.

john
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  #30  
Old 8th June 2006
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I had no problems removing the 6mm screw with
the tubes removed from the bike. Honestly, it's
NOT that big a deal like I said before. The biggest
obstacle for me was getting the fork caps back on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by release
..... honestly, I couldn't get the hex bolt to budge,
springs in, or springs out. If there are any other tips on this I'm all ears.
You can use air tools to crack the 6mm screw if you have
air, or if you have access to someone elses.....
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