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  #11  
Old 20th October 2021
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Good plan, needs to be done.
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  #12  
Old 22nd October 2021
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When you need to apply force sometimes it's better to have the engine mounted in the frame.
Also, remove the flywheel inspection plug. I once put a plug in without it''s washer PO bodge) and it locked the engine solid. Also, you can see when it moves even a tiny amount.

You need to allow time, a lot of it as in weeks not days for these oil/penetrate type things to work. Be patient.

And a little heat will help.
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  #13  
Old 22nd October 2021
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Do you think you can un-stick it and ride off into the sunset?

Ironheads aren't that wonderful when they're perfect.

If it's really that nice of a bike , fix it once and fix it right.

It can also not turn over with a broken rod.
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  #14  
Old 22nd October 2021
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the whole concept of the compensator is to allow movement via a spring and cam assy. unless you are talking about something else???
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  #15  
Old 22nd October 2021
needspeed needspeed is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bustert View Post
the whole concept of the compensator is to allow movement via a spring and cam assy..
This is true when everything is working properly. My point was that if the engine is frozen solid and you try to turn it by turning the compensating nut, there will be no movement.

It would be the same if the engine had a non-compensating sprocket and you tried to turn it via the nut. If the nut is tight, it won't turn if the sprocket shaft won't turn.

If put it together without the spring and cam, the sprocket would freewheel, but the nut would be tight on the sprocket shaft extension which is splined to the sprocket shaft.
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Old 22nd October 2021
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All of the comp issues were suggested earlier on in another post. Apparently if an engine migrated into a basement, the only issue it could have is rusted cylinders. Perhaps if you repost one more time about the same issue, it can morph into whatever issue the masses guess it could be.
Sprocket shafts never spin in their tapers, rods never break, tops of pistons never separate from their skirts, ect ect ect. They all lock up from rust, always.
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  #17  
Old 22nd October 2021
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There are a zillion reasons why a bike goes into storage.

But the most common problem with stuck pistons is just plain old rust.

Catastrophic failures do of course happen, thankfully, not all that often.

Undo the base bolts and try to lift a cylinder. If the bores aren't rusted 1/2" lift will tell you that.
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Old 23rd October 2021
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if the motor sprocket turns a full 360 degrees AND the motor doesnt turn at all, then the motor sprocket shaft has lost its connection to the left flywheel.

insider term:
you have a spun sprocket shaft.

in car terms you have a broken crankshaft.

IF so:

thats good and bad:
bike may have been preserved due the fact that 100% motor disassembly to get to the problem is just to much $.
never mind the parts cost (if you can even find them) prior to the reassembly.

then reassembly aint free.
now are other parts that could have, should have, been replaced on reassembly, they cost.

on the other hand:
kinda sounds like no hack & slash wrench "rebuilt anything".
for guys who know, an injured original bike is more desirable than one that "a guy my uncle knows rebuilt it'.

my advice is to proceed with eyes open.
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  #19  
Old 25th October 2021
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if the engine wont turn over, pull off the heads, the jugs, the pistons, and the primary chain, and direct your attention to the crankshaft. If the crankshaft turns after removing all the above, the go back and clean up and reassemble all the parts thus removed and see if it spins. by now it should spin and be on the road to recovery. If you cannot remove the heads pistons and jugs then you now know what is stuck.
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