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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #71  
Old 5th November 2021
73HEAD 73HEAD is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferrous Head View Post
I have bought quite a few of them for a lot less.

Most of them are in pretty good condition. Like a Holly they will wear the body where the throttle shaft runs through. But most are fine and you can buy a kit to re-bush them.

I generally pay not much over $100 for mine.

If your not a purist there are the cheap Chinese fake Super E's. At $49 they are very hard to go past. They also come with more than $50 worth of jets.
thans for the tip
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  #72  
Old 7th December 2021
73HEAD 73HEAD is offline
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Default what a difference. wow

hi FH, picked up the bike from branko the other day and have been running it in. never broke a new top end in before. i have read anything and everything i can find on best practice and its coming on well. from 0.70 over with stock heads, points and q cams to nice free flowing heads stock displacement and pb+ cams with hi 4 it is a beast. the difference is almost hard to believe. i stuck with the bendix in the end. any tips you can throw my way with break in would be very welcome.
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  #73  
Old 7th December 2021
kitabel kitabel is offline
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.070" adds 4.44%
TM40 is HS40, not HSR40
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  #74  
Old 8th December 2021
73HEAD 73HEAD is offline
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hi kitabel, when branko ( engine builder) pulled the old jugs off he remarked how surprised he was that was 0.70 over and the condition they were in. there is not a scratch on the bore or pistons and how there was less than 2 thou play. i understand what that means in theory only.
not having ridden an ironhead before i had nothing to compare the performance to, but i believed it went quite well. it certainly reminded me of a small tractor. now it feels like i have a 754 under me. what ive noticed and dont fully conprehend is how the revs are choppy like a jap bike. its hard to explain. the revs are not higher but the engine feels like it is running faster. am i a weirdo or what? but thats what it feels like. since i picked the bike up i have done about 30miles. i changed the oil and will ride it again today each rde has been for only 5 to ten minutes, each one getting longer. lots of roll ons and roll offs not going over 3K revs, and not getting it to hot. lots of engine breaking. your views on break in procedure would be welcome. so too anyone else with a point of view. thanks
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  #75  
Old 8th December 2021
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Ferrous Head Ferrous Head is offline
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OK.

I do my break in's painstaking and methodically.

I don't ride the bike before it's done.

heat is your enemy here.

I start and run the engine at a fast idle for 1 minute. Stop, wait until it cool down to ambient temperature.
Repeat this doubling the time the engine runs each time you do it.
Do that 5 times.
Dump the oil (you did buy "break in" oil ?)
Fill with fresh oil and go and and ride it.

No need to "baby it" after this procedure. I use this procedure for my race engines.
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  #76  
Old 8th December 2021
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What an Ironhead feels like.

Dinosaur and tractor come to mind as does steam locomotive.

4 cylinder bikes simply do not have the torque at lower rpm's that Ironhead's have.

Riding a modern 4 cylinder Jap bike is more like riding an electric vehicle. Turbine like power down low with not that much "kick in the pants" feel to it.

There is a trap that some people fall into.

Not revving their Ironheads.

Torque figures do drop off in the top end and too many people get into the habit of riding around never taking the engine above 4.

Don't "lug" the engine. Yes, nice to feel that torque pull you around and the sound at lower rpm's is great.
But it's hard on roller bearing bottom ends.

The engine will be safe right up to 7 grand. Try it so you can see what that feels like.
Do it in 4th gear on a road where you can do it safely. You'll be looking at about 115 MPH, so be careful.

The engine WILL sound like a chaff-cutter and it WILL vibrate.

That's all normal even if a little scary.
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  #77  
Old 8th December 2021
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hi FH, i did start the bike 3 or 4 times like you said then have ridden it 10 or so times now for at first 3 to 4 minutes increasing to 10 to 15 now. i have been very aware of the temp. my gauge has been the temp of the oil tank. i am very paranoid of xxxxxxxxx something up. i want to go for a longer ride today. say 20 to 30 ks. what do you reckon? should i rev it a little harder. still should i roll on and off a lot and use the engine to brake?? i understand i shouldnt blat it. your thoughts mate. i would imagine branko put break in oil?? yesterday i changed the oil and havent ridden it yet. the oil i put in was penrite classic light 20w 60 hi zink. will that suffice?
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  #78  
Old 8th December 2021
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Oil is fine.

It only takes about 5 minutes for the bulk of the ring seating process to happen. Your engine should be good to go now.

People were told to roll off the throttle to help draw oil up onto the cylinders. It helps a little with cooling. But your past that now anyway.

Don't forget the heads need to be re-torqued around 500 clicks.

Enjoy.
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  #79  
Old 8th December 2021
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thanks mate
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  #80  
Old 8th December 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferrous Head View Post
The engine will be safe right up to 7 grand. Try it so you can see what that feels like.
Do it in 4th gear on a road where you can do it safely. You'll be looking at about 115 MPH, so be careful.

The engine WILL sound like a chaff-cutter and it WILL vibrate.

That's all normal even if a little scary.
I would avoid redlining the engine during break in.
You as the rider must feel fully confident in your ability and the ride.
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