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  #21  
Old 4th June 2019
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They started to put vacuum petcocks on most motorcycles in the '70's because the pressure of the weight of fuel, in larger tanks (3.5-5 gal), would push the fuel through the carbs and out the overflows to the ground, creating a fire hazard. So if you accidentally left your petcock in the on position, you could end up with up to a gallon of gas, on the ground, under your motorcycle (this was especially true in hot weather). I had a '78 Yam. 650 and a '78 Suz 550, where the vacuum petcocks failed and would leave a puddle of gas under them, unless I shut-off the petcock. Once I replaced or rebuilt those petcocks, I could leave the gas on between short hops without having to worry about gas overflowing.
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  #22  
Old 4th June 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomcatt View Post
Kinda funny the things we now expect.
It 'should' I agree.
But there are countless bikes on the forum with gas flooded crankcases.
Some of which don't have a diaphragm petcock.
Since a perfect world only exists on the showroom floor, we are all subject to it.

I wouldn't say expect, not for me anyway.
I appreciate changes that work and don't inconvenience me to much.
I understand the difference between a mechanic's headaches and an owner's experience also.
They usually don't mix too well.
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  #23  
Old 4th June 2019
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Both the vacuum petcock and the carb overflow tube (in the float bowl) are intended to pervent fuel flooding the crankcase when the engine is OFF...

The petcock prevents excess fuel getting into the float bowl... And the overflow is intended to evacuate the excess fuel if it does get to the float bowl...

If you have an overflow issue - stop leaving the petcock on or fix the petcock seals... Or replace the float bowl valve...


For the life of me, I can't understand why the Sport model carbs (unlike other CV carbs of the same era) have no carb overflow tube???!!!???


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  #24  
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Was the Sport carb compensated another way or did they just simply remove the tube and that's it?
I don't have a non sport model to compare.
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  #25  
Old 4th June 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
For the life of me, I can't understand why the Sport model carbs (unlike other CV carbs of the same era) have no carb overflow tube???!!!???
Depends on the carb. In the greater scheme of things most carbs don't have "overflows" because they act as bowl vents and bowls usually see air pressure at the carb inlet (they "see" intake restrictions) so they're less affected by clogged or different filters etc. Bike carbs have always been sensitive to what's hung on their inlets because the float bowl "overflow" is a vent to atmospheric pressure.
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  #26  
Old 27th June 2019
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I found a blister-pack of Dorman Vacuum Plugs in assorted sizes for $4.00 at Advance Auto. I'm sure the same thing can be found at other auto parts stores or online. Thick quality rubber and easy to install.
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  #27  
Old 27th June 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketmangb View Post
Short piece of hose with a screw in it.
This is what I did. I just plugged the end that hooked to the petcock with a screw. Recently I found a piece of rubber that fit over the vacuum port and did the same thing. This did away with the long line I had with the original set up.
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  #28  
Old 27th June 2019
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Vacuum port caps that fit pretty nice and snug when cold become much looser when the carb heats up and the rubber cap becomes softer. I have had them blow right off the fitting if you happen to be jetted a little lean, and have a carb "spit back" when the throttle plate is mostly closed. The hose/screw method is more secure. On my pan, which will sometimes spit back when being kick started, I finally just sawed the fitting off, threaded the hole, and put in a set screw. Overkill and done!
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  #29  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
boomerguy boomerguy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RussW View Post
Vacuum port caps that fit pretty nice and snug when cold become much looser when the carb heats up and the rubber cap becomes softer. I have had them blow right off the fitting if you happen to be jetted a little lean, and have a carb "spit back" when the throttle plate is mostly closed. The hose/screw method is more secure. On my pan, which will sometimes spit back when being kick started, I finally just sawed the fitting off, threaded the hole, and put in a set screw. Overkill and done!
Good to know. I haven't had a problem with my rubber cap coming off yet but I will put a clamp on it. If it blows off, I'll use your method.
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  #30  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Info update on the possible vacuum petcock: I was talking to my new riding buddy about the subject and he said that several years ago he normally shut his petcock valve when he parked his old Sportster 1200. Because the old bike leaked so much oil, he checked the level every day. One day before a ride, he checked it to find the level very high and smelling of gas. He checked the petcock valve and sure enough, he had forgotten to close it. It had drained gas into the vent line to the intake manifold on the carb. Fortunately, all he had to do was shut the petcock valve, change the engine oil and all was good. He replaced the petcock with a new one (OEM) and he never forgot to shut the petcock valve again on that bike. It was replaced by a new '99 Road King with EFI which he still rides and has had no problems in over 40K miles -- but that's another story.

Last edited by boomerguy; 4 Weeks Ago at 23:39..
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