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  #11  
Old 21st July 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wedge View Post
It sounds like way too much time has elapsed between your rebuild and trying to start it.

You need to pull that carb apart again and clean it thoroughly. You need to pull every part out of it (including the emulsion tube), and soak everything (except rubber parts) in carb cleaner then blow out every passage.

You need to make sure the air bleeds are open and run a wire through them if necessary to be sure.

Did you pull the pilot jet out? That is overlooked by some people because it is small and they are inexperienced to look for it. (Not saying that is you, just trying to cover all bases). Make sure the check balls are where they belong and again make sure that all passages are clean and free flowing. Replace that acc pump diaphragm and make sure it seats good all the way around. Do not use any silicone on the carb, and do not use locktite on any screws. Silicone has a way of getting where it doesn't belong, and locktite on the screws can cause a full day of work to get them out and clean up the threads so that new screws can be used. I did that to a carb a few years ago on an 883 and it took some creative thinking to get the screws out, including cutting one or two flat with the surface and running them out the back side with almost no clearance to do that. It can be done, but stay away from locktite and you won't need to do it later.
Your first sentence is what I'm kind of afraid of. Not that it's that big a deal but just frustrating. I think that may be my next step though. I can't imagine I'd need another rebuild kit for that in so short a time should I? Now the pilot jet, I'm guessing that's the jet that's inset into the tube I need to use a tiny screwdriver to unscrew as opposed to the larger one that I turn out of the emulsion tube with a wrench right? I did pull and clean both but I just want to make sure there isn't anything I may have inadvertently overlooked.
Locktite, god no. I wouldn't do that to a carb. I put some on my riser bolts when I replaced the bushings the other week but not on a carb. Those tiny things are a big enough pain in the ass to get out to begin with.
As for the vacuum petcock I am quite sure it is operating as I pulled the fuel line off the carb and tried cranking the bike and as soon as I did I got fuel coming out into a cup. I'm reasonably sure that's proper operation but if there's still something I should be looking at let me know and I will.
At this point it's looking like I'm going to pull & disassemble the carb for one more good cleaning and then try this all over again. I probably won't be able to get to that until tomorrow but I'll keep at it.
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  #12  
Old 21st July 2020
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Originally Posted by Legion Prime View Post
Your first sentence is what I'm kind of afraid of. Not that it's that big a deal but just frustrating. I think that may be my next step though. I can't imagine I'd need another rebuild kit for that in so short a time should I? Now the pilot jet, I'm guessing that's the jet that's inset into the tube I need to use a tiny screwdriver to unscrew as opposed to the larger one that I turn out of the emulsion tube with a wrench right? I did pull and clean both but I just want to make sure there isn't anything I may have inadvertently overlooked.
Locktite, god no. I wouldn't do that to a carb. I put some on my riser bolts when I replaced the bushings the other week but not on a carb. Those tiny things are a big enough pain in the ass to get out to begin with.
As for the vacuum petcock I am quite sure it is operating as I pulled the fuel line off the carb and tried cranking the bike and as soon as I did I got fuel coming out into a cup. I'm reasonably sure that's proper operation but if there's still something I should be looking at let me know and I will.
At this point it's looking like I'm going to pull & disassemble the carb for one more good cleaning and then try this all over again. I probably won't be able to get to that until tomorrow but I'll keep at it.
You do not need a rebuild kit. I have taken carbs apart over and over using the same gaskets for years without the gaskets failing, especially the rubber O-ring type. You may need to source that accelerator pump diaphragm.

Yes the pilot is in a deep hole to the side of the main jet and emulsion tube. That pilot jet feeds the idle circuit and the transfer ports. When you turn the mixture screw you are only controlling the idle port, and as the throttle plate opens a bit off idle, it allows the 5 transfer ports to draw fuel from that pilot jet to meter the transition from idle to the needle. The 5 transfer ports are the 5 little holes just past the port that the mixture screw controls (you can see the tip of that needle on the screw protruding through that port into the venturi area). Never close that screw tightly or it will fracture the metal around the idle port and ruin the ability to adjust idle on the carburetor.

You need to remove the emulsion tube to clean it properly, Note: it holds the needle jet up in place, so when you remove the emulsion tube, the needle jet may fall out, if not you can push it out from inside the venturi with a finger or a flat end of screw driver. Note which direction it goes back in (if you look at both ends of the silver colored needle jet, one end has a wide counter sunk hole, and the other end is flat with a smaller hole. The larger hole faces up in the carb pointing towards the needle). Remove the main jet from the emulsion tube and clean them separately.

Selling the bike over a carburetor problem would be a sad end to this issue.
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  #13  
Old 22nd July 2020
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Nah, my friend was planning on selling it anyway they just wanted to get it running first. I didn't figure I'd need another rebuild kit (though I may grab another accelerator pump diaphragm, I just don't like the way it sits) but my previous experience was mostly with cars so I'm not gonna be stubborn and insist I know it all about bikes because they're all the same. LOL
Yeah, not that big a deal cleaning it again I just gotta run into town to get that diaphragm. I found some pretty good videos on youtube like this one by Shane Conley it's rather long but he really seems to cover a lot which is great because not everything transfers over from working on cars. I just like to make sure I check everything over before I start changing out parts.
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  #14  
Old 9th August 2020
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Curious if you ever got it running, update?
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  #15  
Old 10th August 2020
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Yeah sorry about that, I did get a new diaphragm from HD (cost almost as much as the entire rebuild kit from CVP) unfortunately I managed to peel back a good sized slab of my thumb at work which has made me hesitant to be spraying carb cleaner and gasoline around. Fortunately after about 2 days and some superglue I finally managed to get it stabilized and stop bleeding. There has been no sign of infection as of yet and I did finally get the tetanus booster my doctor told me to get last year, oh happy day. So long story short I should be getting into the carb again soon and hopefully get the damn thing running again.
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  #16  
Old 10th August 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Legion Prime View Post
Yeah sorry about that, I did get a new diaphragm from HD (cost almost as much as the entire rebuild kit from CVP) unfortunately I managed to peel back a good sized slab of my thumb at work which has made me hesitant to be spraying carb cleaner and gasoline around. Fortunately after about 2 days and some superglue I finally managed to get it stabilized and stop bleeding. There has been no sign of infection as of yet and I did finally get the tetanus booster my doctor told me to get last year, oh happy day. So long story short I should be getting into the carb again soon and hopefully get the damn thing running again.
I did that on my drill press a while back. Just as the thought crossed my mind that maybe I should clamp the bugger, it caught, spun, and split my left thumb open. Just stick a bandage on it and use a rubber glove for the carb cleaner. As much as carb cleaner stings on a wound, it may be killing germs anyway.
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  #17  
Old 2 Days Ago
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Well after growing in another new batch of scar tissue on my lucky thumb, a couple quarantines courtesy of the idiot in Lansing and my everpresent insomnia I FINALLY got back into the carb. Sorry for the delay but such is life.
I did a quick pull & spray with some carb cleaner, got flow through all the passages and replaced the accel pump diaphragm. The HD diaphragm did fit significantly better than the CVP one (the one in the kit I rebuilt my carb with fit perfectly, both kits were from 1 order so I dunno ) and when I unscrewed the cover gas started dripping out so gas is flowing & present inside the carb. The bike however still will not start. I can get it to turn over with ether so no problem with the air or spark. When I had it apart initially I did make sure all the jets & emulsion tube passages were clear and sprayed carb cleaner to ensure flow through all passages but it still will not start. I officially am stumped. I can not think of anything else to check. The fuel is fresh, I tried starting it with the fuel valve in both the on & reserve position, the battery is new & hardwired to a battery maintainer. I just don't know what else there is to check at this point. If anyone can think of anything else to try I'm all ears.
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  #18  
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Post#12 by Wedge covered the idle circuit quite well.

Did you read all of the Sportsterpedia info regarding idle operation - ports, jets, air intake?

The Sportsterpedia page on the CV40 carb tuning has pictures:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:evo:carb02

Concentrate on the idle circuit - After sitting that long, any port or passage may be blocked - The Idle Mixture Screw feeds some of the Slow Jet fuel mix into the Idle Port. So for that all to work correctly you need to make sure all of the idle circuit openings and pathways are squeeky clean.

When using carb cleaner, the carb should be stripped - Rubber seals & diaphragms can be negatively affected by soaking them with cleaner - Strip the Carb...

Remove Idle Mixture Screw (IMS) - Remove Slow Jet (w/attached emulsion tube)

When you spray carb cleaner into the IMS, it should come out at:
the Idle Port in the venturi
the 5 Transfer Ports in the venturi
the Slow Jet mounting hole
the Slow Jet Air Inlet (front of carb, lower right)

Use your finger(s) to block some of these openings in order to force the carb cleaner to follow the pathways to the other openings. Make sure all these openings flow cleaner thru them.

You should also verify that nothing is blocking the Float Bowl Air Vent on the face of the carb - Not the gasket, no extra screw, not the Air Cleaner, etc. Perform a fuel flow check by using the float bowl drain screw (and hose) after you verify the air vent is not blocked.

You should need to use the Enrichener function to start the bike.

Clear the Enrichener circuit openings & pathways.
Remove the Enrichener Cable from the carb - Make sure you get carb cleaner to flow from the enrichener port (where the cable attaches) out thru the Enrichener Port (which is on the engine side of the venturi). Make sure it flows out of the Enrichener Jet in the float bowl. Make sure the large air intake (on the face of the carb) is not obstructed as it feeds not only the slide diaphragm but also is the air intake for the Enrichener Circuit.


The petcock needs to flow fuel to the Float Bowl (with proper air venting). The Enrichener Knob needs to be pulled out so the Enrichener Jet pulls extra fuel from the Float Bowl. The Slow Jet needs to suck fuel up from the Float Bowl & mix it with the incoming air from the Slow Jet Air Intake. That fuel mix needs to flow to the Idle Mixture Screw & be metered out thru the Idle Port.

If all that happens & you have compression and a proper spark, the engine should start...



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  #19  
Old 1 Day Ago
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Okay, I guess I'll go back and pull the carb yet again. It's sounding like one or more of those idle circuit passages must be blocked. Third time's the charm right?
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  #20  
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Note: As my Relaxed friend is saying, it is not good enough to spray carb cleaner through passages. You need to remove all the parts including that idle jet with it's attached emulsion tube, and also the main jet, it's emulsion tube and the needle jet that the emulsion tube holds in place. Then you need to thoroughly clean those parts AND then blow carb cleaner through all the ports to make sure nothing remains in a passage.

The most likely issue here is a plugged up pilot jet emulsion tube, and you can't clean that without removing it.
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