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Sportster Motorcycle Transmission, Clutch, Primary & Secondary Drive Transmission, Clutch and primary or secondary drive problems, advice, and/or how tos.

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  #31  
Old 3 Days Ago
IXL2Relax's Avatar
IXL2Relax IXL2Relax is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucstoudt View Post
is that a type of steering wheel puller?harmonic balancer?fairly common pullers are sometimes in our possesion.
I'm not sure - I borrowed it from my brother - He has lotsa tools - was a HVAC mechanic building A/C units for submarines.

There are lots of ideas in the Sportsterpedia REFerence section on DIY Clutch Pack Compression Tools:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...k:ref:tools115

This worked very well and the pressure plate went off & on without an issue. Just make sure you get the locking Spring Seat in the right place (over top of the spring fingers) when reassembling. (SP Reference)

The bolt & coupling to the release bearing assembly are 5/16”x24tpi.

Like in the SP section, I used a Schedule 40 3" Coupling cut just past the center ring to keep the extra support that ring provides when pressing on the diaphragm spring. You want the inside diameter to be as close to the hub fingers as possible so it presses on the flexible part of the spring fingers. (2.5" PVC is too small.)


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Last edited by IXL2Relax; 3 Days Ago at 02:12..
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  #32  
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I asked Folkie to change the thread title to reflect the failure I found - Grenade Plate. It's great to have admins that help when needed.

***** UPDATE *****

So, I got KT fired up and while it idled I listened to the primary. There was a bit more whining than I remember so I loosened up the primary chain adjuster.

Then I took it for a short ride.

The E1 Clutch has a much smaller friction zone - like ON or OFF in about 1/8 to 1/4 lever range. So I loosened the adjustment a bit to put that range just outward from the center of the full lever range. There seems to be plenty of lever motion on either side of the friction zone.

Took it for a longer ride.

The diaphragm spring feels like a softer pull than my stock one from 1994. The length of the E1 fingers (or the depth of the voids) are similar to the later model 883 diaphragm springs. Even though the E1 claims to have a 15% stronger pull, that is likely to be relative to the later model lighter pull strength and may still not be equal to the early model pull strength. I'll think about that for a while to decide whether I want to put back the 1994 stock spring.

The clutch engagement seems good, but time will tell whether it feels like it will slip. My 1200 is running about 80hp. Since Hammer is selling these for even higher HP builds, for the time being, I'll just keep paying attention when I hard shift to sense any slipping (RPM surge).

Tomorrow, I hope to get a decent ride - The weekend weather is supposed to be good as well.


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  #33  
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Tomcatt Tomcatt is offline
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Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
The diaphragm spring feels like a softer pull than my stock one from 1994... Even though the E1 claims to have a 15% stronger pull, that is likely to be relative to the later model lighter pull strength and may still not be equal to the early model pull strength. I'll think about that for a while to decide whether I want to put back the 1994 stock spring.
A well designed diaphram spring will "feel softer". E1 got the engineering right where HD didn't. FWIW I'm running the E1 spring with Barnett Kevlar plates and Redline GL-5 gear oil with no slipping.

Enjoy the E1's lighter pull.
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  #34  
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I updated the picture of the paper clips with an explanation of where I used them. Take a look back at that post, and/or just read on...

The reason was to hold the new primary cover gasket in place while I put the cover on. Since I was working on the floor, the angle of the primary would not keep the gasket there, but rather falll off the hollow alignment posts. You know the situation where you need three hands and four would really be good!

So, the top paper clip (with just a little bend at the end) would fit thru the gasket hole and into a top screw hold, then flip over the primary case and 'snap' tight against the backside. I used all of them as spring clips.

Each of the other two were formed tight enough (springy tight) to slip over the front & back alignment posts to hold the gasket tight against those.

I put the primary cover in place - while getting the new primary chain tightener in place - and got two screws started at the top of the cover and another started at the bottom - enough to hold the cover (and gasket) in place.

Then I removed the upper paper clip by 'unclamping' it and rotating it sideways to remove it from between the cover & case. The two side clips were pushed inward and pulled around the alignment posts and out.

It went really well...

Now I've got the chain adjuster set (initially) and when I fire up the engine I'll see if it needs further adjustment (using the 'listen to the whine method'). Likewise, I've set the (initial) clutch release adjuster to where I think it should be, but will check it again after exercising the clutch during idle & with a short ride.

I'm almost there --- new ride reports to soon follow - assuming I have no other trouble. However, the way the past few weeks have gone, I'm not going to rely on that assumption just yet...


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Dry case and a little 3M #77 spray adhesive in a few places on the gasket works great. (I use that shit on everything). Especially on the derby O-ring, it's a life saver.
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  #35  
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^^^ the quad ring,copy that.where did they get that name from??
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^^^ the quad ring,copy that.where did they get that name from??
It's sealing surfaces are four sided, rather than circular? Square versus round cross section.

That's just my guess. Haven't really researched it.

John
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  #37  
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i can see that now.
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