Ironhead Rear brake drum return spring

[JBGoode]

I had this problem and still do sometimes but less often since I made a washer fit between the arm and the spring. I've noticed that the spring would lodge itself behind the little space of the arm so I made a washer to hold it all back snug in place. Works better, still sticks but once I start moving again it unsticks itself.

[jhaines]

Originally Posted by JBGoode

I had this problem and still do sometimes but less often since I made a washer fit between the arm and the spring. I've noticed that the spring would lodge itself behind the little space of the arm so I made a washer to hold it all back snug in place. Works better, still sticks but once I start moving again it unsticks itself.

Pics?

[JBGoode]

I'm on my mobile but I'll post some whenever I get to a computer.

[jhaines]

Originally Posted by JBGoode

I'm on my mobile but I'll post some whenever I get to a computer.

Perfect. Thanks!!

[IronMick]

Originally Posted by IronMick

Ya i did all that too. So in summary,

• clean up inside the brake drum
• apply light grease to the brake drum pivots
• lube the spring
• lube the cable
• grease the brake pedal pivot
• center the brake shoes

then come back here when it still does not return properly

Originally Posted by DR DICK

on 75- 78 this is usually caused by a cable problem.

with adjuster nut at wheel arm off, opoerate arm with 9/16 wrench on cam nut. if arm operates ok it is a cable or pedal linkage prob.

if arm still sticky prob usually is cam shaft hole in backing plate is worn out. resulting in cam contact to shoe to be caddywumpus. this is the usual cause of sticky arm action on 52-74 and 75-76 converted to left brake.

the funny end of the cam shaft at 9/16 nut is a grease fitting.

Mine is a '78 but it is not! a cable problem. Right, eh. My cable is all lube'd up good, eh. But i'll check anyway. Even tho i know! my cable is good.

Off with the saddlebag, off with the adjuster nut, do the good DR's 9/16th wrench test, OMG! the arm operates perfectly. It is a cable problem.

This is not fair. Now i have to admit to being arrogant [again].

Well, actually the cable is OK but i applied anti-sieze to the brake pedal shaft on the forward control, lube'd the hiem joints on the forward control with a little silicon lube, did likewise with the operating shaft, and for good measure re-lube'd the cable also with the sili lube.

Works perfect.

So i ammend my previous post. Before coming back here listen to DR DICK.

And, i guess we do not want to insert a lof of grease into that fitting!?

[1Scooter]

I went through the Forward Control blues and made them work perfectly. Took a lot of trial and error time with adjustments. Last nagging problem was if ya shift down to 1st, sometimes the shift lever would drop down and point to the street. Ended op using the chrome acorn nut (where the Mid Mounts bolt to) as a positive shift stop. Removed linkage pinch bolt and added a short spacer and a longer cap screw. Now the extended bolt hits the acorn nut and no more pointing to the street surface. As for shifting, it shifts as good as my Wife's 2004 Sportster.

[gotamotor]

Mine was doing that too, 77h

Ditched the cable made a rod instead looks better but did have to do some chopping of the sprocket cover

Snaps back like never before