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  #21  
Old 3rd November 2019
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Not a terrible install, don’t need the locking block, dig up a 4” brass door hinge, it wedges between the teeth on the rotor and the teeth on the clutch basket. For removal I use a 1/2” breaker bar with a five foot piece of pipe over it for leverage. On your install be very careful routing your stator harness across the back of the engine and down ahead of the drive pulley. It might help to attach some cord or wire to your old stator leads as you fish them back up, then attach your new leads to it and carefully pull the new leads back down. Next, a torque wrench with at least 250 lbs. ft., I rented on from my local AutoZone, use red loctite on the new stator. Hope this helps.
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  #22  
Old 4th November 2019
Semper-guzzi Semper-guzzi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterpaul View Post
Not a terrible install, don’t need the locking block, dig up a 4” brass door hinge, it wedges between the teeth on the rotor and the teeth on the clutch basket. For removal I use a 1/2” breaker bar with a five foot piece of pipe over it for leverage. On your install be very careful routing your stator harness across the back of the engine and down ahead of the drive pulley. It might help to attach some cord or wire to your old stator leads as you fish them back up, then attach your new leads to it and carefully pull the new leads back down. Next, a torque wrench with at least 250 lbs. ft., I rented on from my local AutoZone, use red loctite on the new stator. Hope this helps.
Yeah for sure. I didnt know autozone rented torque wrenches.

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  #23  
Old 4th November 2019
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Please hijack away! Replacing the stator is no big deal and you should totally tackle it yourself, you can do it man. You will need either the locking tool or, an impact to get the nuts off. I prefer the impact method, just borrow one from somewhere, most auto parts stores do tool loaner stuff. Get a good service manual too. I think mine is the clymer service manual and it's better than nothing but leaves a lot to be desired..... an actual HD manual would be best. One of the nuts is LEFT HAND THREAD cant remember which one off top my head.

You basically remove your primary cover and possibly controls, then you unbolt the 2 nuts and pull the primary drive off as a unit, exposing the stator.

Yes, service the clutch, it might still have the grenade plate or spring plate. I like the stiffer barnett diaphragm spring but it definitely makes it a man clutch from the stiffness...

Replacing the throwout bearing wouldn't be bad either but you can get to that one easily later on after everything's buttoned up if need be....... do NOT cheap out on the throwout bearing, I had tons of clutch engagement-disengagement issues that stemmed back to the cheap shitty TOBs I was using.

Anything else just ask.
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  #24  
Old 4th November 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THEWILDONE View Post
Please hijack away! Replacing the stator is no big deal and you should totally tackle it yourself, you can do it man. You will need either the locking tool or, an impact to get the nuts off. I prefer the impact method, just borrow one from somewhere, most auto parts stores do tool loaner stuff. Get a good service manual too. I think mine is the clymer service manual and it's better than nothing but leaves a lot to be desired..... an actual HD manual would be best. One of the nuts is LEFT HAND THREAD cant remember which one off top my head.

You basically remove your primary cover and possibly controls, then you unbolt the 2 nuts and pull the primary drive off as a unit, exposing the stator.

Yes, service the clutch, it might still have the grenade plate or spring plate. I like the stiffer barnett diaphragm spring but it definitely makes it a man clutch from the stiffness...

Replacing the throwout bearing wouldn't be bad either but you can get to that one easily later on after everything's buttoned up if need be....... do NOT cheap out on the throwout bearing, I had tons of clutch engagement-disengagement issues that stemmed back to the cheap shitty TOBs I was using.

Anything else just ask.
One thing to note is one of the nuts has left handed threads and one is right handed.

There is a lot of great info here in the Sporsterpedia
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  #25  
Old 4th November 2019
Semper-guzzi Semper-guzzi is offline
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Thanks guys. There's some local to me who's got more tools in his garage then in mine. Think we could share a few beers and knock it out. I ordered the parts last night including plates to replace the spring plate in the clutch. I get to make a clutch compression tool now too ha ha.

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  #26  
Old 4th November 2019
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F.W.I.W. the Auto Zone by me “loans “ tools out, but you “rent” them. A hundred dollar deposit, use the tool, bring it back and get your deposit back.
Oh, I’ve done six stator replacements, the brass hinge works great as a gear locker, you can borrowed off of a door in your house, .4”.
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  #27  
Old 4th November 2019
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Buy a Cycle Electric stator couple with their regulator and no more problem.
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  #28  
Old 5th November 2019
Semper-guzzi Semper-guzzi is offline
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I looked around at a bunch of cycle electric distributors, none sold it. And I already picked up a new regulator... not even sure my old regulator is bad now that I think about it.

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  #29  
Old 12th November 2019
THEWILDONE THEWILDONE is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ParrotHead View Post
One thing to note is one of the nuts has left handed threads and one is right handed.

That's what I said, it's right there in your quote of me lol.
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  #30  
Old 12th November 2019
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I'm doing the same thing on my 98.
I have pics up in the Sportsterpedia for the detailed teardown from start although the last thing I have to do is remove the engine sprocket and clutch basket.
They are here, although rigid mount, most should be the same.
91-03 Stator Replacement

Nut removal / installation:
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Last edited by Hippysmack; 14th November 2019 at 01:07.. Reason: moved pic url
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