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Sportster Motorcycle Motor - Top End Discuss Sportster Motorcycle Top End issues. Rockerboxes, Valves, Cylinders, Pistons, Rings, Lift Rods, etc...

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  #21  
Old 22nd January 2019
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I ended up with a burr on the end of the bushing on the third one I pulled in.
(due to using the nut to bring it home)


I used a file across it to flatten it out flush to the rocker arm.
Placed a straightedge across the assembly to ensure it's flat end to end.
The file cut down the bushing before harming the hardened rocker arm.


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  #22  
Old 22nd January 2019
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Something I noticed.
You can see the beginning reamer cut in the first pic below.


As the reamer came thru, it didn't cut in the middle as well as it did in the beginning.
This left an app .0003“ hump in the middle of the bushing.


Some of that came out with a short lapping with 220 grit.


The reamer was lightly ran back through.
I ran it in while spinning and stopped where I felt light resistance.
I held the back side of the reamer in that spot and spun it from the front until that spot freed up.
But, this would take more time than the hour I had already spent on it.


You can see the cutting edge is already out the end of the rocker before the reamer binds up.


This revealed a dark ring where the reamer was binding but not cutting.
Kind of like what Dr Dick mentioned with the reamer gliding in but not cutting.


The shaft did slide in with light resistance but repeated turns with the reamer also created heat in this spot.
It still needed to be lapped for greater clearance.


Using a hand drill with the worn out 220 grit seemed to work good and take off a little at a time.


So simply reaming is only half the story. You have to do some lapping also.
I wonder if that's because of the split bushing.
Would the split 'settle' while reaming?

Also, both valve side bushings looked like the one on the right.
The more worn they are, the less threads that will be cut when tapping.

Last edited by Hippysmack; 22nd January 2019 at 01:31..
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  #23  
Old 22nd January 2019
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that is a pit fall of hand ream.
you can liken it to doing a free hand cut on a lathe and letting the machine do it, totally two diff outcomes.
another thing is if you are doing a straight ream vs a taper ream, still having a jig and spindle make a better job.
we did a lot of broach work, mostly square holes but the broach reduces bellmouth and starting issues since the broach is not turned as each step in the broach opens the hole a tid-bit at a time. do they have one for the hd bushing size, hummm, idk, never looked.

all in all, doing great work and honestly showing what to expect.

out of curiosity, do you have a hyd press?
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  #24  
Old 23rd January 2019
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No, I don't have anything like a shop press.
Almost bought one last year but ended up with no room with the stuff I bought then... and acquired.
I've got a frame straightener I could probably mod though.
Did I already say I miss the Bridgeport?....

I've had experience with a reamer cutting too wide when used with power tools.
So I wanted to do this by hand so I could control the cut.

It still worked fine, I just had to do a little massaging to get it where I wanted.

I think in retrospect, if I had access to a mill, I'd have still done it by hand though.
My limited training is on a 60's Bridgeport and Southbend lathe.
No CNC, build it by hand and gut. When it works, it's special.
Of course, when it don't, you're a dumbass... or so I've been told.

Last edited by Hippysmack; 23rd January 2019 at 01:33..
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  #25  
Old 23rd January 2019
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This has nothing to do with this thread but I wanted to put these pics up for my own memories.


This is the J head Bridgeport I used.
I rebuilt it from ground up.
Had the quill on one side of the room followed by parts of the head and bed strung all over the floor.
The PO used THIS piece of artistic machinery for cutting wood.
All bearings were full of saw dust as well as every nook and cranny of the mill.
The quill had all but seized up due to no oil.
We bought a hand wheel for it and I made the knobs on the lathe.



This is my favorite of the 2 Southbends with a 3 jaw chuck.
Lots of memories in that shop.


edit:
Bustert, these are the ones I'm holding out for.
If they do get rid of them, I'll be needing some advice on wiring.


Barry, if you ever run across this thread,......Thanks.

Last edited by Hippysmack; 23rd January 2019 at 18:15..
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  #26  
Old 23rd January 2019
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I love seeing this stuff - But don't have the equipment or patience to do this...

Would the alternative be replacing the rocker arms? I suppose that would be cheaper than having someone else do this replacement bushing work, as time=$$$.

Very Cool - Thanks for sharing the process - I know it takes a lot of effort to document these kinds of things (and good preplanning)...

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  #27  
Old 23rd January 2019
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I'm with Bustert on this one - broaching is the way to go. Used to repair Bedford trucks, steering swivel bushes were always sized after installation with a broach, quick, easy and always with consistent results (until the broach became blunt, that is).
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  #28  
Old 23rd January 2019
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Bustert, Gospelman,
Can you guys explain more about using a broach for these bushings?
I haven't used one of these.

Again, I'm no expert.
Machine work is not my trade.
I just happened to be introduced to this equipment as I was working there and fell in love with the machines.
I took up on it pretty quick as I've been locating underground utilities for over 30 years.
And I guess after a while, boredom sets in when you've learned all there is to know about something and still want to learn more.

I guess I was born too late....
But I was taught to do things in the shop in a tedious way.
(which conflicts with my upbringing)

Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post

Would the alternative be replacing the rocker arms? I suppose that would be cheaper than having someone else do this replacement bushing work, as time=$$$.
I have read on the forum that it's not common to need to replace the rocker arm bushings.
Something squirrely happened to the boxes before I bought the bike.
So maybe this is just my problem....
But the rocker arms and / or valves were originally out of alignment somewhat.
There is probably a lot of reasons unknown to me.

I would believe that the rocker arms would show wear in the box or on the valve stems also with the bushings out of whack.
So, in theory, you'd probably see wear elsewhere (as I did on the original valve stems) which may more appropriately require the arms to be replaced as well.
I bought the 1250 kit but didn't have the money at the time to replace or address the rocker boxes.
So now I'm going back through.

Having someone else replace the bushings makes me uneasy, unless it's someplace like Hammer or NRHS.
The machine shop I took my 1200 heads to didn't work on motorcycle engines much. I ended up with leaky valves afterwards.
So, if it's got to be done by inexperience, I'd rather that be me doing it.

It is cheaper to replace the bushings IF that's all that is wrong with the rocker arms.
But, as most parts go, one aspect of wear usually wears on something else.
New arms come with new bushings which takes the need to replace them out of the equation.

I've searched the forum for a how to for replacing the bushings and didn't find any.
Since I'm also working on rocker box maintenance in the Sportsterpedia, I thought I'd kill two birds with one stone.
The FSM simply says to ream the bushings.
There are some subjects, as this one, where the manual doesn't go into detail.
I suspect that would be because rarely would you need to perform some of these tasks.
But since it's there, I thought I'd see what it would take to perform and document the process.
Others have needed to replace these bushings before and have posts regarding them in the forum.
But there is not a lot of detail still on performing the procedure or results thereof.

Last edited by Hippysmack; 24th January 2019 at 02:04..
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  #29  
Old 23rd January 2019
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the reason i asked if you have a press was it would make the install on a saner side. but IF your vise opens wide enough, you could use it. all you need to do is make a arbor button that will fit the bushing with a stop shoulder, could be any length. that way, the id is protected and with the stepped shoulder, press it home till it stops. the arbor button could be a right sized bolt with a long shank and threading cut off. this would negate the need for turning one, i always try to use shelf items and mod them if needed.
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  #30  
Old 23rd January 2019
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Yeah, I guess you could use a bolt with the threaded end cut off to pull it up in a vise.
Every vise I've ever used doesn't have a dedicated flush pull though.
The jaws will pull closer together on the opposite side of where the piece is clamped.
So the rocker arm would need to be placed in the center of the vise to help ensure a center pull on the bushing?
Then pull it in with a cheater bar on the handle instead of resorting to a hammer.
(since it will get tight once the bushing gets about halfway home).
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