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  #301  
Old 13th December 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterpaul View Post
Nice, seeing the vision comer together a piece at a time. Thank you for sharing this. Even Fred may get infused?
Thanks man. Wish it was going faster, but right now, just happy we are back on it and making steady progress.

Kevin
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  #302  
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Spent a bunch more time on the chop this weekend.

Pulled her out from under the blankets, and away from the wall.






I'll tell you up front, we carried the welder from the shop to the house, but did NOT even unload it.

We thought we would pull the pulley guard and then weld the tensioner in place.







That is when the frustration began...







...we brought some extra stock to weld the tensioner in place...







...but no matter how we tried configuring it, we could not get everything to fit.







We spent over 2 hours trying to get the frame, the tensioner, the chain, the oil tank and the rear fender to play nice together.







These legs are what came with the tensioner. We've looked at how to reshape them, make our own...nothing is coming together.





Talked about running no tensioner, but I don't want to ruin the paint on the fender.

The problem is the oil tank/battery holder. It is taking up almost all the space between the frame rails, leaving nowhere to mount the tensioner.

I even briefly started thinking about going the more traditional route of putting a typical tank up higher...then I had an idea...finally!

Ditch any variation of the legs completely and...







...use a threaded bung that we'll weld into the frame.




We can weld a little tab on the frame for a stop for the other side of the spring.



But we still had a problem. We do not want to have to remove the oil tank just to get to the tensioner bolt. There is still no room, even for that. Putting the tensioner here will give less than 1/2" between the bolt head and the side of the tank.






More in next post.

Kevin
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  #303  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Even with the threaded bung as the anchor, there is still the fitment issue, until we realized that there is about 1" between the back of the oil tank and the fender.

That will be enough room for access to the tensioner bolt. FINALLY!





Wow, that was a PITA. But we will bring the welder back again, along with a couple of good bits and the laser, and get that installed.


Moving on to the motor-mount.

We got some bungs in...






...and brought some small rod to form for a template for the larger stock that we'll make the actual motor-mount out of.







The curved stock will go from the bung to above the intake manifold...







...off of both heads. The ends will be cut at a 45 on each, then welded together.





This will give us rigidity from the frame, behind the tank, to both cylinder heads. It will also be clean and simple, which is the look I'm going for.





Next up was deciding how to attach the battery cover...







...to the oil tank. Gonna slot the cover, weld 4 small studs to the tank, and there will be 4 nuts. All hidden unless looking for them with a flashlight.







Back covered up, against the wall, til next week.





Did not get nearly as much done as we thought we would....but after almost giving up on the tensioner, it feels like a lot, now that we got it figured out.

Kevin
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  #304  
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This last Monday, Devin and I had 4 hours scheduled to work on the chop...but first we had to do a "little" test on a new product we've been working on for a couple of months.

5 hours later, our "little" test was done, and we are redesigning some aspects of it. Will be doing a 500 mile test on it in a couple of weeks when the new prototype is cut.

Anyway, we are going to be working on it again this afternoon...for sure, this time. lol

We took the small material that we hand bent last time for the motor mount, and made a jig-





We then took the actual material, 3/4" OD DOM, and heated it up and bent it to the shape we want-






We only need two of them, but went ahead and shaped four of them. We still need to cut the ends at a 45 and concave out the opposite ends for the bung. So we have a couple of extras, just in case.




Not going to do any welding today, but some drilling, cutting, and working on the exhaust.

Kevin
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  #305  
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Progress is still progress, but it s amazing how those little details have such an impact on a project, you’re doing good!
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  #306  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterpaul View Post
Progress is still progress, but it s amazing how those little details have such an impact on a project, you’re doing good!
Thanks man!

You're gonna laugh at the next post...the progress we thought we made was a mistake.


Kevin
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  #307  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Friday afternoon we took off to work on the chop.

We did not bring the welder this week...we'll be fitting, cutting and brainstorming, so next time we bring the welder over we'll have a bunch to do.


First up was to size & cut the 45's on the motor mounts...







...it took about 1.5 seconds for us to realize we had bent the wrong stock. It was supposed to be .5" OD, not the .75" OD that we bent.






We already removed the jig from the welding table, so we'll be tacking it back up and bending the correct stock next week.




Next up was getting the tensioner located and hole in the frame drilled for the bung.

This is where we want it...







...right between the back of the oil tank/battery box and the front of the rear fender.








After marking the location, we need to remove...







...the rear tire & brake caliper...








...so that we can get to the rear fender...








...and get it out of the way, so that we can drill the hole for the bung.







Time to drill the pilot hole in the frame!





More in next post.

Kevin
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  #308  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Next up was to drill the full size hole for the bung...







Threaded bung sitting in hole we just made.







Perfect! Next time the welder is over we'll get that bung welded in, along with a spring stop for the tensioner, and that is put to bed.








Time to put the fender back on...







...then the tire, caliper and chain back on.








Next item on the agenda is the exhaust.

I've had the same idea for a couple of years on what I want it to be. But two things come into play-

1. I can't do exactly what I want because of the rear brake master cylinder. I looked at moving the M/C up front, but did not like that look at all.

I also looked at using a different M/C, but did not want to go that way either.

I even looked at doing away with the foot brake and using a proportioning valve for the handbrake (front and rear), but that is not something I want to do.

2. I've found it is always good to look at things with fresh eyes, not being married to an idea of the past, so today we will entertain every possibility.



Playing with the stock headers...








...one of the first things we discuss is whether to go 2 into 1 or true duals. There is more power to be had with 2 into 1, but this bike is not about making power.

Going with true duals will give a better sound at an idle, something I really like on a carbed bike...








...but a clean 2 into 1 will go with the minimalist look that is the overall theme of this bike. Something like this-





More in next post.

Kevin
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  #309  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
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I really like the look of one pipe running along the swingarm...






...it follows the existing line of the bike, and almost disappears along the frame rail.








But the ideal spot for the 2 into 1 is right where my MC is sitting. Here we're looking at two pipes running along the swingarm.







Putting the carb on, then looking at bringing the rear header forward, under the carb, and joining up with the front header...






...nope, that idea is not clean, nor great to have the heat right under the intake.

We look at running the rear header out to the left side of the bike. That is how the True Duals on my Softail run.







What we decided on what getting some new headers to work with. That way we don't need to delete the crossover pipe on the stockers, which will be a pain to get the patch totally smooth.

Then we will run the rear pipe all the way back, along the swingarm, ending a bit past the axle.

On the rear pipe, right behind the M/C, we will put in a 2-1 collector, pointing forward. The front header will marry into that collector, under and inboard of the M/C for the least visible junction of the two.





That's it for now. Next week is another short week. Hopefully we will get some more done on her.

Kevin
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