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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #11  
Old 22nd January 2018
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I have several. But they do you no good on tiny internal threads like intake nipple nuts, etc.
That's what the ends of the file are for, nuts and inside threads...

I'm not saying they are THE miracle tool, but generally, they act a lot faster than grinding or lapping paste...

I also use bolts as thread cutters, grind a few flutes at the right angle on the sides, they do a good job for a one off job. Allen bolts the best, they are usually a lot tougher than std bolts

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  #12  
Old 22nd January 2018
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Originally Posted by brucstoudt View Post
how are t.p.i. and thread pitch different? thread pitch is the distance between threads.
Same thing. It's just a matter of designation. Threads Per Inch is the designation for pitch in the Imperial thread system, but not possible in the Metric System as there is no "inch". Metric threads are designated by distance from thread crest to thread crest. Conversely, Imperial threads designated the same way would be the reciprocal of the threads per inch. For example, 3/8-16 would be 1/16 crest to crest, 1/2-13 would be 1/13 crest to crest. Rather awkward, hence the designation TPI.

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  #13  
Old 22nd January 2018
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Originally Posted by thefrenchowl View Post

I've used thread files for close to fifty years...that's the first one I've ever seen with inside thread teeth on the end.
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  #14  
Old 23rd January 2018
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Originally Posted by Sadsack View Post
I've used thread files for close to fifty years...that's the first one I've ever seen with inside thread teeth on the end.
That's because they usually come as separate sets as it's relatively rare to have to save a nut, etc. Basically, if a nut is 25 cents -- why would you use a $15 file to save it? It mainly applies to large diameter items -- axle nuts, etc. However, unless you've got a lot of thread to work with it's oft better to replace it.

In this case, I was getting brand new parts to fit correctly and not restoring damaged threads. These threads were simply not cut well . . . but not so bad they couldn't be lapped.

Anyways, I posted this not as "the" way to do something, but rather how a guy without specialty tools can solve a problem. Nearly every guy winds up with either lapping paste or valve grinding paste in their tool kit.

Yes, it is slower to use compound -- but if it's a saturday morning and you want to go riding -- you can either order some files and wait a few days, or use the compound and be up and running in 10-15 minutes. Or you can call around to stores, drive, and waste a few hours.

Of course the ultimate fix is to simply recut the threads in your lathe . . . but now we're into the machinery side of things and getting into some more specialized skills.

Lapping threads is age old, low tech, easy to understand, and cheap.
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  #15  
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Glad I remembered this thread - thanks Chuck. Got a set of clutch hub studs, 4/6 are great, the other 2 just don’t fit. Will dig out some grinding paste tomorrow and give it a go.
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