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ReddTigger · #1 7th October 2013

So my scheduled bikers for babies ride for yesterday had a hiccup..
first i lost my glasses, and couldn't find the back up, so i shoot into a convenience store and buy a pair of sunglasses (all they had, and there is no way anyone would call them "masculine") but I can ride, good..

jump back on the bike and clutch starts squeeling.. then i can't shift.. so i adjusted the clutch.. gets worse, i adjust the other way, better but crappy still..

i end up loosing a good portion of the ability to shift, as i ride it home, getting passed by the convoy of bikes (on the ride i was supposed to be on) going in the opposite direction..

i get home, pull off the derby cover, take out the ball and ramp assembly and the threaded rod goes limp.. rut roh.. that can't be good. the bearing is toast.

i cut it open and this is what i find..

and this

norseXL · #2 7th October 2013

Shit! Happened to me to, lost the clutch completely and of corse I was in down-town Oslo, wery funny,
,
,
Not!

Tore

.

geoff · #3 7th October 2013

Just went through this myself - looks like the inner race is a weak spot

I was 3 miles from home on a less travelled concession road ... thank God for friendly farmers with a trailer.

ReddTigger · #4 7th October 2013

I ordered these bearings as listed in Grinds post.. we'll try them out

Quote:

Originally Posted by ~Grind~

Throw-out bearings. OEM on the left and the 7200B angular contact bearing on the right.

Copied this post from another thread. Explains how to install the angular contact bearing. Thanks Dirty Don for the heads up on this bearing!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dirty Don

I went out and looked at mine, all apart, and it looks like the primary cover might need to come off, maybe not. But the throw out bearing is in its own little housing, held in by a retaining ring and the assembly can be removed. Then you take the small retaining ring off the threaded shaft and press it out. The bearing itself can then be pressed out of its housing, press the new one in, by the outer race, making sure the widest side of the outer race on an angular contact bearing goes into the housing first, then replace the shaft and retaining ring, put the assembly back in with its retaining ring and it's done. You must be sure of the orientation on an angular contact bearing so your thrust is applied to the races properly. Then put your primary cover and the rest back together.

Ocgreenmachine · #5 7th October 2013

Grind, any particular brand on the 7200B angular contact bearings? Also, size is 10x30, correct?

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rocketmangb · #6 8th October 2013

Does the bearing "push" in or "pull" out when you cycle the clutch lever ?

Ocgreenmachine · #7 8th October 2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by rocketmangb

Does the bearing "push" in or "pull" out when you cycle the clutch lever ?

Was this for me?

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wedge · #8 8th October 2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by rocketmangb

Does the bearing "push" in or "pull" out when you cycle the clutch lever ?

You should know that by now. It pulls out when you pull the lever. You are pulling the adjusting screw towards the derby cover and that is pulling the pressure plate away from the plates.

SO... On the pictures above, the bearing is installed in the holder so that the side facing you is the side shown on the right of the top set of pictures (the wider outer race is towards you). The adjuster screw is installed so that the threaded end points towards you, in the same direction as the wider side of the outer race. (The side with the numbers stamped in it).

Note, this means that the wide center race is facing away from you. (The side without the numbers)

ReddTigger · #9 8th October 2013

On other words.
Fat end first

rocketmangb · #10 8th October 2013

Why dont the fat outer race face out ?

http://www.skf.com/binary/12-97838/519961-.pdf