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  #21  
Old 28th November 2021
jeffro57 jeffro57 is offline
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I have run an inline filter for years with no problem, there should be nothing floating in tank
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  #22  
Old 28th November 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketnorton View Post
what is the "molasses trick"?
never heard of that one
One of the best ways I know to clean rust and muck out of a gas tank.

1/3 molasses 2/3rds hot water (helps dilute the molasses).

I use a whole jar of molasses. Mix it up, pir it in. Turn the tank over and slosh the mixture around.

Now this does take time. Here we're talking days, not hours or minutes.
Every time you go near the tank turn it over and slosh it around. The more often the better I guess but it's not critical as far as I can tell.

Might take a eek. In any case, when your done your back to bare, shiny steel. The molasses eats rust. Seriously. Any rust.

Google rust and molasses and you'll see the results.

I've never found anything that's better.
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  #23  
Old 28th November 2021
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^^^ sounds good
ive used vinegar, but it will flash rust when dumped, gotta get a fuel/oil mix in it right after dump
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  #24  
Old 28th November 2021
Congojack Congojack is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferrous Head View Post
OK. What did the shop do to the bike in 8 months ?

You need to learn to do things systematically. Just guessing and doing things randomly is not a great idea. You may "play" with things you don't need to and possibly cause further problems.

I always begin with a compression test. Compression gauges are cheap and not hard to use.
They will tell you a lot about your engine.

Your obviously familiar with taking the carb off so substitution will save a lot of time and effort when it comes to carb problems. $49 on ePray will get you a new fake S&S Super E jetted for your engine. A cheap tool.

Before you put a new carb on though you do need to make sure your tank, tap and lines are clean. If the tank is rusty inside take the time to do the molasses trick.

After this if the problem is still there it's going to be ignition.
I took it in because the battery wasn’t charging and I was unable to shift past 1st, the only reason it took so long was because the shop I took it to was only open 1 day a week cause of covid, it was a real headache. I got the bike last October so just been trying to get everything going, little things here and there. I do need to clean out the tank, there are chunks of what looks like rust floating in there. There’s much I need to learn, appreciate the advice
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  #25  
Old 28th November 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doodah man View Post
But still, if this is happening in gear your clutch could be dragging a bit. It’s life with a “wet” clutch. There’s a fine line between adjusted just right and dragging. If it doesn’t act like it wants to die in neutral but does in gear, revisit your clutch adjustment. What weight oil is in your primary?
Right now I’m using HD SAE 50, but I’m thinking of doing an oil change soon. Would you suggest something different. I’m using it for both engine and transmission.
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  #26  
Old 28th November 2021
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If you have anything at all floating in there it's a good chance the carb is now full of it.
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  #27  
Old 28th November 2021
Congojack Congojack is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferrous Head View Post
If you have anything at all floating in there it's a good chance the carb is now full of it.
Gonna have to clean out the tank, check pushrods and points. A lot of work ahead of me before I can ride again lol
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  #28  
Old 28th November 2021
Congojack Congojack is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferrous Head View Post
OK. What did the shop do to the bike in 8 months ?

You need to learn to do things systematically. Just guessing and doing things randomly is not a great idea. You may "play" with things you don't need to and possibly cause further problems.

I always begin with a compression test. Compression gauges are cheap and not hard to use.
They will tell you a lot about your engine.

Your obviously familiar with taking the carb off so substitution will save a lot of time and effort when it comes to carb problems. $49 on ePray will get you a new fake S&S Super E jetted for your engine. A cheap tool.

Before you put a new carb on though you do need to make sure your tank, tap and lines are clean. If the tank is rusty inside take the time to do the molasses trick.

After this if the problem is still there it's going to be ignition.
Thanks for the advice, I definitely have a lot to learn. How long would you suggest to do the molasses trick? Also any suggestions and what to do with the full tank of gas that’s in there?
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  #29  
Old 28th November 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Congojack View Post
... How long would you suggest to do the molasses trick?...
https://www.christinedemerchant.com/...t-removal.html

I would take the used gasoline to a recycle depot.
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  #30  
Old 28th November 2021
doodah man doodah man is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Congojack View Post
Right now I’m using HD SAE 50, but I’m thinking of doing an oil change soon. Would you suggest something different. I’m using it for both engine and transmission.
You might benefit from a 20w50 in colder weather - so that really depends on the outside temps where you live. I use Castrol gtx 20/50 simply because it’s easy to get.
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