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Sportster Motorcycle Transmission, Clutch, Primary & Secondary Drive Transmission, Clutch and primary or secondary drive problems, advice, and/or how tos.

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  #31  
Old 17th May 2022
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Many of us have had our sportsters and been on this forum a very long time and have gotten to know the people who know their shit. You obviously are new here and that’s not your fault but ya, I know Hero’s method of adjusting the chain by sound works. And trust me if I had a dollar for every time I thought I did it right only to find I was doing it wrong all along.
You have also discovered that warmed up doesn’t mean five minutes it means riding and getting bike up to operating temp. Glad to hear you got it but to be honest that sound method Im pretty sure was posted up on this forum many years ago by member Hero and it works perfectly. Cheers.
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Last edited by xena; 20th May 2022 at 02:39..
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  #32  
Old 17th May 2022
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When in doubt about who is telling you what you can always refer to the rep points. They are earned. You passed over the advice of a guy with 5× as many as the guys advice you took. Just saying...
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  #33  
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I didn't "pass over" anyone's advice. I tried them all, I just tried one before I tried the other. Hindsight being 20/20 and all that.

I went for a long ride today in 90 degree heat, much of it riding 35 mph or less. When the bike was completely hot, the noise came back again, so did the hard shifts, bad as ever. I would have liked to pop the cover as soon as I got back home to see where the chain was, but I had other obligations. So, I just quickly backed it off another 1/8th turn, and I'll take it from there.

What are the symptoms when it is too loose? Does the chain slap the case? Is there ever a condition where it is too loose when cold, but too tight when completely hot?
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  #34  
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If it's slapping the case, it's too loose. When riding, and you left off the throttle and you feel a definite jerk,(no case slapping) it's still too loose. The chain is never tighter when hot. I'd look at a different primary oil, if still have shifting problems. Some shift problems are do to the bushings being worn at the pivot closest to your foot.
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  #35  
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"The chain is never tighter when hot"

OK, gonna need some clarification on that, because pretty sure I read elsewhere that it is, and that's why we make the adjustment when it's hot. Metal expands when it gets hot, so getting tighter makes sense to me.

And I should have been more clear about shifting, I meant noisier and tighter shifts when it got hot. It was better when I began the ride.

The bike has 5K on it, so I'm not looking at bearings at this point.

So far I have tried Lucas and Del-Ray primary oil, so I also doubt that is the problem.

But, I could be wrong, I realize.
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  #36  
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The chain is also metal so it would expand and roughly the same rate.
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  #37  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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It should get tighter with heat. It's not just the chain, the case expands as well and the distance between the sprockets changes as well, at least I recall reading somewhere here long ago. Not sure how significant that is.

John
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It's a chain. When it gets hot the links loosen up, making it more flexible.
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  #39  
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The chain gets tighter when hot for the reasons given in post #37. The sprocket diameters increase slightly also.

Ironhead manuals give a cold and hot adjustment spec, the hot one being tighter for that reason.

I don't have one. Doesn't an EVO manual give a cold and hot spec as well?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by needspeed View Post
The chain gets tighter when hot for the reasons given in post #37. The sprocket diameters increase slightly also.

Ironhead manuals give a cold and hot adjustment spec, the hot one being tighter for that reason.

I don't have one. Doesn't an EVO manual give a cold and hot spec as well?
My Mistake! My fsm says 3/8"-1/2" cold and1/4"-3/8" hot, thus making it tighter when hot.
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