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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #11  
Old 27th November 2021
Congojack Congojack is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffro57 View Post
crap in your fuel system, start with your tank, lines ,filter then your carb again
I did notice there is some stuff in the tank, but fuel is flowing through lines to carb
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  #12  
Old 27th November 2021
Racepres Racepres is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Congojack View Post
I believe so, fuel seems to be flowing to the carb, there’s a good amount of fuel in the in line filter
I would Not run an inline filter... Gonna give Problems...
was it there before you began having problems???
As already said... What did you do to the bike just prior to developing problem??
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  #13  
Old 27th November 2021
Congojack Congojack is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racepres View Post
I would Not run an inline filter... Gonna give Problems...
was it there before you began having problems???
As already said... What did you do to the bike just prior to developing problem??
It was there before the problems, I had just gotten the bike back from a shop after 8 months when I started noticing the problems. That’s when I rebuilt the carb, few days after the rebuild is when the problems came back. Even after the rebuild though it was running kinda weird. Felt sluggish when I would stop and hold the clutch in at 1st. What would you recommend instead of a in line filter?

Last edited by Congojack; 27th November 2021 at 15:19.. Reason: Add to post
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  #14  
Old 27th November 2021
Iron Mike Iron Mike is offline
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My suggestion would be to research on this forum how to adjust your pushrods and how to properly inspect , adjust and set your point ignition timing (BPI needs proper battery voltage to operate, don’t forget that portion).
Research and read until you are 100% confident in understanding and how to execute both of these procedures. They are bar none two of the mandatory task that an Ironhead owner absolutely needs to understand.
After you certainly know those two items, start reading on the importance of zero manifold leaks.
Then you can tune your carb.

Just my suggestion.
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  #15  
Old 27th November 2021
doodah man doodah man is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Congojack View Post
…Even after the rebuild though it was running kinda weird. Felt sluggish when I would stop and hold the clutch in at 1st.
Do you mean it’s trying to lurch forward in 1st when stopped? That would likely be a clutch adjustment issue.
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  #16  
Old 27th November 2021
Congojack Congojack is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doodah man View Post
Do you mean it’s trying to lurch forward in 1st when stopped? That would likely be a clutch adjustment issue.
No, like it wanted to shut off, I would keep having to hit the throttle. Then it would most likely shut off when trying to take off.
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  #17  
Old 27th November 2021
Congojack Congojack is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iron Mike View Post
My suggestion would be to research on this forum how to adjust your pushrods and how to properly inspect , adjust and set your point ignition timing (BPI needs proper battery voltage to operate, don’t forget that portion).
Research and read until you are 100% confident in understanding and how to execute both of these procedures. They are bar none two of the mandatory task that an Ironhead owner absolutely needs to understand.
After you certainly know those two items, start reading on the importance of zero manifold leaks.
Then you can tune your carb.

Just my suggestion.
Thanks I appreciate it, I saw a video on YT, I think it’s by lowbrow customs, where they showed how to adjust the pushrods and set the points. I’m gonna have to watch and rewatch that then check all that stuff.
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  #18  
Old 27th November 2021
doodah man doodah man is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Congojack View Post
No, like it wanted to shut off, I would keep having to hit the throttle. Then it would most likely shut off when trying to take off.
But still, if this is happening in gear your clutch could be dragging a bit. It’s life with a “wet” clutch. There’s a fine line between adjusted just right and dragging. If it doesn’t act like it wants to die in neutral but does in gear, revisit your clutch adjustment. What weight oil is in your primary?
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  #19  
Old 27th November 2021
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Ferrous Head Ferrous Head is offline
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Quote:
It was there before the problems, I had just gotten the bike back from a shop after 8 months when I started noticing the problems.
OK. What did the shop do to the bike in 8 months ?

You need to learn to do things systematically. Just guessing and doing things randomly is not a great idea. You may "play" with things you don't need to and possibly cause further problems.

I always begin with a compression test. Compression gauges are cheap and not hard to use.
They will tell you a lot about your engine.

Your obviously familiar with taking the carb off so substitution will save a lot of time and effort when it comes to carb problems. $49 on ePray will get you a new fake S&S Super E jetted for your engine. A cheap tool.

Before you put a new carb on though you do need to make sure your tank, tap and lines are clean. If the tank is rusty inside take the time to do the molasses trick.

After this if the problem is still there it's going to be ignition.
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  #20  
Old 28th November 2021
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rocketnorton rocketnorton is offline
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what is the "molasses trick"?
never heard of that one
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